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    Lokar TV cable pressure problems

    Got the Lokar TV cable installed, set the pressure to 35 PSI with the gauge block in, then the Gauge goes back to 0 PSI with the block out. The problem is that The instructions in the Lokar Kit says there should be pressure on the gauge right when the throttle is cracked but I'm not getting any pressure right away.

    So the instructions say to readjust the line and take out all slack so you get pressure right when the throttle is opened, but when I do that, the Idle pressure in neutral is at 40 PSI then.

    Is this normal? Or should I set it to 35 PSI and not worry?

    #2
    Originally posted by Not A Midget View Post
    Got the Lokar TV cable installed, set the pressure to 35 PSI with the gauge block in, then the Gauge goes back to 0 PSI with the block out. The problem is that The instructions in the Lokar Kit says there should be pressure on the gauge right when the throttle is cracked but I'm not getting any pressure right away.

    So the instructions say to readjust the line and take out all slack so you get pressure right when the throttle is opened, but when I do that, the Idle pressure in neutral is at 40 PSI then.

    Is this normal? Or should I set it to 35 PSI and not worry?
    I wouldn't trust anything...
    Speaking from the one and only time I messed with and adjusted a lokar tv cable, they never hold the adjustment. We had one with a 351w up at scotts about 9 years ago. Installed everything via the instructions, and it would never hold the adjustment. Biggest piece of junk I ever dealt with. You're better off finding 80s econoline parts and integrating the stock tv kickdown stuff from that carbureted set up.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
      I wouldn't trust anything...
      Speaking from the one and only time I messed with and adjusted a lokar tv cable, they never hold the adjustment. We had one with a 351w up at scotts about 9 years ago. Installed everything via the instructions, and it would never hold the adjustment. Biggest piece of junk I ever dealt with. You're better off finding 80s econoline parts and integrating the stock tv kickdown stuff from that carbureted set up.
      That's not an option, I have everything installed, I took a week off from my vacation to work on my car in the shop with the engine swap, I need this done. The Youtube videos I watched didn't say much about needing pressure the moment the throttle moves, they all just say to set the line pressure at 35PSI with the gauge block and you're good to go

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        #4
        Without having ever handled the Lokar setup, maybe this doesn't make any sense. But would it be possible to, once the adjustment is right, solder (electrical, plumbing, whichever) the wire to the adjustment mechanism so it can't ever slip?

        As for how TV needs to be adjusted, exact numbers aside, if the transmission does not see a pressure change with any throttle position change, it's not working properly.

        Current driver: Ranger
        Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
        | 88 TC | 91 GM
        Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
        Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
        | Junkyards

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          #5
          I do get pressure with throttle, but I do not get pressure right when the throttle is cracked, it needs to be opened at maybe 10% throttle to get pressure.

          Then when I take out the slack so it gets pressure right away, the line pressure is at 40PSI with the gauge block in

          Comment


            #6
            I had a trans shop set my TV pressure (91 SEFI, stock cable setup, not your Lokar setup) to the specs in the book. In order to do that, they ended up with the cable having slack on it so the throttle had to move to "gentle acceleration" before the cable would even move.

            The car shifted extremely early, felt like it was slipping quite a lot, shifts were so soft I could barely feel them and overdrive would engage as low as 40-45kmh (high 20s mph). These are all symptoms the Panther community pretty universally describes as TV pressure being dangerously low enough to cause excess wear and premature failure. After trying to drive it like that for a while and hating it, I tightened it to the point where it drove acceptably. I never checked it with a gauge at the time, probably should have...

            I don't have advanced knowledge in this area, but I know I trust the past feedback of others here...I'm pretty sure I won't be the only person who says you should have cable movement as the throttle cracks open. I don't know the potential risks of high TV other than holding gears longer and potentially too firm shifts, if there's an actual damage risk I don't know what it is.

            Current driver: Ranger
            Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
            | 88 TC | 91 GM
            Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
            Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
            | Junkyards

            Comment


              #7
              Well I set the cable to just start raising in pressure with little throttle and the TV pressure ended up at 38-39.
              The car actually shifts better now then it did before. I'm just paranoid something would happen to the trans

              Comment


                #8
                A little higher pressure isn't an issue. As long as the car shifts firmly and doesn't shift early, you should be good. Higher pressure is actually better, so I would now adjust it for shift feel. The TV cable on the 88 I had never had any slack in it and in fact was probably pulled tight enough to have a little pressure at all times. It also had wide range gears on a stock valve body so it was done that way so it wouldn't shift into 3rd too early.

                As for the cable losing the adjustment... I would mark the cable in a way that any slippage in the cable crimp can be seen. Of course, brazing or welding a ball on the end of the cable outside of the cable end stop so it doesn't come back out will prevent sudden cable slip BS too.
                Last edited by sly; 10-20-2017, 04:30 PM.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment


                  #9
                  from memory the book says to set with the gauge and then verify 0-5 psi when closed. If in doubt, add a little bit more with the gauge and see what happens at idle. Also make sure the thing is returning all the way. I remember having to add a light spring at the trans end to pull the TV lever all the way back to the closed position at idle. That might be what ails yours when it holds 40 psi at idle.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                    from memory the book says to set with the gauge and then verify 0-5 psi when closed. If in doubt, add a little bit more with the gauge and see what happens at idle. Also make sure the thing is returning all the way. I remember having to add a light spring at the trans end to pull the TV lever all the way back to the closed position at idle. That might be what ails yours when it holds 40 psi at idle.
                    Yeah I did have to make a bracket and attach a spring to the TV arm, the Lokar spring was too weak so there was 20PSI at idle with no gauge on the cable.
                    On the drive home the car decided it wants to shift into 3rd early now, the transmission was really lugging until I got up to 50km/h and it doesn't downshift until I come to a complete stop.

                    So in this case, I want to raise the pressure with the adjusting nuts on the cable bracket?
                    I didn't use the Geometry corrector bracket on my Holley, is it needed?
                    Last edited by Not A Midget; 10-20-2017, 06:08 PM.

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                      #11
                      more pressure moves the shift point upward.

                      not sure on the bracket but I think that is usually what the tv cable gets hooked to.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Lokar says you don't need a geometry corrector, but some people put them on, some don't.
                        The holley carb I have is a 4160 and has a hole on the throttle linkage that the Cable goes into

                        Comment


                          #13
                          dunno, I only did this once and it was on an Edelbrock carb. I do remember hating every bit of it though because nothing seemed to work correctly. I do vaguely recall that the transmission burned up not long after it went home.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Don't say these things, I can't afford a rebuild and I already drove it around for 15 km or so

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I used the holley aod bracket fairly sure used the spring at the trans from the factory cable and adjusted it just a nats but from fully tight. That was close to 10 years ago no issues. Also have cruse controll hooked up also had to use a cruse control can from a f150 last year of the carbed 351 HO basically a plug and play. All three of my panthers have the tv pressure maxed out as soon as possible after purchase.
                              Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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