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1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel

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    #76
    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
    Some quick research last night indicates door and dash speakers may actually be the same as Panther stuff. Not 100% on what connectors it uses but probably the same old premium sound plugs that everything else ran, that rectangle 2 pin thing. If you'd be inclined to part with a pair of door and a pair of dash speakers I wouldn't say no. Not gonna worry about the JBL stuff though, its got the wrong amp and totally the wrong wiring arrangement and honestly I don't feel like messing with it. It did cross my mind though, I've got a spare amp here but I don't feel like harvesting all of the wiring harness to make it work.
    I can harvest JBL wiring for you thain from a mark vii, i have done it before. All the connections to be made for jbl wiring to work are located underneath the driver side floor trim panel where ford runs all the speaker wiring and amp wiring iirc it was like that for all my panthers.

    1982 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Bill Blass Designer Series 2-Door(Larisa)
    -Mods: HO Roller 302, GT40P Heads, Explorer Intakes, HO ECM(D9S), Autodimming w/compass and outside temp rearview mirror, Daniel Stern Lighting Mod, Dual Exhaust, 90's GM C/K Series Retractable Hood Light, Red Digital Dash Display, 92-94 White Leather Town Car Signature Cupholder Armrests, HPP Wheels, Police PS Cooler, Police Trans Cooler. More to come!!!!
    1998 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD(Fiona)-Mods: Lincoln Navigator THX Audio System, Ford Explorer Sport Instrument Cluster.

    Comment


      #77
      I appreciate the offer Matt, but I think I'm gonna just leave this one stock 2 channel premium sound. It doesn't sound that bad now, and I think with a pair of working door speakers it will be tolerable.


      This is why I replaced the water pump. The manual seems to imply this can be replaced without messing with the timing belt, but I don't quite see how.

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      When I got it off, I found that it was either the original BMW pump, or a genuine replacement part. I'm betting on original.

      New belt, new pump, new tensioner and timed properly

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      Old tensioner had some slop to the bearing and it was by all appearances original. 182K miles is enough.

      A view inside the rocker cover. To the far right of the picture you can see the valve adjustment method. The roller at the valve tip has holes in it, and its an eccentric. Loosen the cross bolt, rotate the eccentric to set the lash. Clearance is measured with a feeler gauge between the bottom of the cam lobe and the top of the rocker arm. You can imagine exactly how much of a pain in the ass that is.

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      Front of the motor together. The hole where something seems like it ought to go is where the thermostat housing bolts in.

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      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #78
        Yeah that's a heck of a stupid way to adjust valve lash! Much as I dislike pedestal mount rockers when it comes to fine-adjusting the lifter preload, I think I'll take their shims over this bull.

        What's the big hose hanging on top of the air cleaner, part of the crankcase pressure regulating setup? (basically it's like a giant PCV) If so that thing is supposed to be plumbed into the intake, to use the vacuum the turbo pulls. The way it's just dangling in there, it relies on crankcase pressure alone to push the fumes out, whereas with the proper setup you get the intake vacuum sucking them out too. If you can smell oil while you stand next to the idling engine, that's what's causing it, even more so when the fan clutch locks up and starts blowing the vapors away before the intake can breathe them in.
        The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
        The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

        Comment


          #79
          yeah, line from the oil separator off the valve cover. It plugs into the stock air cleaner, which will go back on once the little rubber connector boot shows up. The original one fell apart. The cone filter is mostly there to keep mice and stuff from building a nest inside the turbo.

          The vacuum pump on this is sort of strange too. Looking at it, it has to push air into the crankcase. It lives under the valve cover and runs off the cam. The vacuum port comes up through the cover, so the air outlet has to be inside the valve cover. I guess its not pushing much air as long as you don't have a leak but its there.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #80
            Neat-O. Does it have a massive amount of turbo lag like my 300D has? Feels like someone flipped a switch when it hits a certain RPM. What it rated at HP/TQ wise?
            -Phil

            sigpic

            +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

            +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

            Comment


              #81
              not totally awful since the turbo is teeny and spins up pretty quick.

              114 hp @ 4800, 150 ft-lb @ 2400.

              it doesn't seem to be as horribly slow as the numbers would make you think though. Its also only a 149 CID / 2.4L engine. Not sure what your 300D has but its probably bigger. Physically this thing is pretty much the size of a 4 banger Mustang engine from the 80s.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #82
                Wow that's a tiny 6. Yeah the 300D is a 3.0L 5 cylinder, with a decent size turbo, it makes 123HP @4350 and 181 ft/lb torque @2400, so similar power band but a bit more power, but like i said it has a massive amount of turbo lag, but once it gets going it's pretty peppy.
                -Phil

                sigpic

                +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                Comment


                  #83
                  I don't even know what mine makes, it's like 180hp from the factory but that's without a hair dryer. With the noise maker it if we average you guys' numbers and scale up for displacement I ought to be a bit over 300hp and a bit under 450 lbs-ft... Yeah, like hell, I've driven diesels like that and I know what those numbers feel like, I got nothing even close to that Out of curiosity, what does a Conti and a Benzo like yours weigh?

                  Gadget, that's interesting with how they have the vacuum pump set up, so it basically slightly pressurizes the crankcase. That would explain the huge size of the vent they gave you, since that's about the size of what mine runs and I got literally 3 times your displacement (so roughly 3 times more blowby volume to evac). Also, if the pump is essentially on one end of the "circuit", and the CDR valve is way on the other, it would kinda make sense to have it that way - like how on a 302 the fresh air inlet is in the front of one valve cover and the PCV is kinda ways across from it in the rear of the engine. Oddly enough my engine does not have a fresh air inlet for the crankcase, just the tuna can to suck the vapors out into the intake for the heads. Wonder what that 300D runs for that purpose?

                  Ain't old devil-fuel engines fun and joy to tinker with? lol
                  The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                  The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                  Comment


                    #84
                    NY title called mine about 3350 lbs. Probably reasonably accurate. I'd expect a little more weight on the Mercedes. I don't know what the BMW models weighed but possibly a little less, and many of those came with a manual. The ZF auto probably doesn't help any with the perk factor, but the 3.73 rear does. Luckily they gave it that much or this engine would never get out of it's own way.

                    The vac pump and crank vent are basically at 1/3s of the valve cover so I don't know it would do a great job of circulating through the crankcase. It has an oil drain line down to the crank from the vent though. Its actually an oil seperator with internal baffles to drain oil back to the crankcase and let the vapors go out to the turbo inlet. Seems it worked, the crossover pipe was good and slimy inside, even upstream of the EGR. I washed all that out as best I could. I also plan to cap off the vacuum to the EGR because fuck that shit.

                    Dumb question for you, but the injector weep lines. Mine daisy chain together and there is a line from #1 back down to the pump. Off #6 is a piece of vacuum hose with a nail in it. I presume that should just be capped off and not going somewhere else? Thinking I may upgrade from the nail to something a bit less BS looking. May have to float a vacuum cap in some diesel to see if it turns to mush on me.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #85
                      You have EGR??? Yeah, fuck this shit! Soot must never find its way back into the cylinders - I'd much rather spend money on regen-style DPF than fix damage to engine caused by sort of EGR system.

                      The "weep" lines, yeah they typically do chain together with at least one end leg going somewhere - in my case it's the fuel tanks, in yours it's apparently the IP? To decide what to do with them I usually look at cross-section are the fuel travels thru - for example I have 5/16" return line from engine to tanks and 1/4" daisy-chaining the injectors, so it made perfect sense to me to split the 5/16" main line into two 1/4" branches at the rear of the engine, and have a cross-over line at the front with the IP T-eed in the middle of it (so return fuel from the pump can flow thru both branches). In your case if the return port on the pump is large enough I would be tempted to try to bring the extra line off #6 into it as well, just for more flow and thus lower pressure in the loop and thus lower chance of leaks. Or maybe T-ee the #6 end leg into the main line headed back to the tanks? In any case the weep lines also serve injector cooling purposes so the more flow you can get thru them the better, generally speaking.
                      The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                      The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                      Comment


                        #86
                        That timing belt is interesting... toothed and ribbed. First time seeing one like that.

                        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                        Originally posted by dmccaig
                        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                        Comment


                          #87
                          yeah, it has EGR. And my sentiments exactly about it, F that shit. I plan to "leave" it, but make it not work. If you look at the crossover pipe between the turbo and the intake, that smaller line heading off is from the EGR valve. I'm figuring if I just cap off the vacuum feed to the valve somewhere that its not obvious it will continue to look stock, but not have that soot munch BS going on. It may not operate anyway, the crank sensor plug is shot and apparently the EGR control module wants engine speed input to know when to turn the thing on. There are wires from the CPS jammed into the connector for it, but I don't know if they are in the right order. I really don't want to replace that sensor because it doesn't do anything useful but i can't find the stupid connector shells anywhere. 2 pin sure, not 3 pin male, only 3 pin female. Its sexist I tell you.

                          The weep lines are pretty small, maybe 3/16, looks like windshield washer tubing. I could tee the lines from #1 and #6 together and send it back to the pump. I think it returns to the tank through the connection on the side of the injection pump. There is a return line connected to the injector pump at any rate.


                          Belt is certainly odd. Ribbed side drives the oil pump and runs on the tension pulley. I guess it works. I'm kind of glad it doesn't run the water pump off the timing belt too, though that would have allowed for a slightly less wimpy alternator belt.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Post picture of the connector you have and/or need? I may very well have such a thing in my stashes...

                            Return lines sound like they use the IP as a junction point for everything before sending it back to the tank. 3/16" is what the 6.9 IHCs use too btw. In any case I'd T-ee the #1 and #6 together and send a 1/4" common line back to the IP, especially if the IP fitting is 1/4" already.
                            The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                            The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                            Comment


                              #89
                              not sure what size it is at the IP, I'd have to look. The hoses vanish down there in the mess. This uses a fairly common Bosch injector, wouldn't surprise me if the same basic hardware exists on a ton of things. I'll need to pick up some suitable hose. I suspect vacuum line isn't the stuff to use but the original type braided stuff is available.

                              Brake job stuff. Nothing really remarkable, and I forgot to take pics of the front brakes back together but just imagine the crusty pics without so much crust. I'm sure the pics of the rubber hose explains why I wanted them gone. Basically these are stock box brakes. Other than the rotor offset, all this crap is identical to a Crown Vic.
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                              The outer bearing. Not sure how well it shows, but these have a distinct yellow tint to them, which tells me they got plenty hot. Also pics of the races, one with odd high polish spots and the other that just looked slightly dark from wear


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                              Last edited by gadget73; 12-29-2017, 09:16 PM.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment


                                #90
                                I never thought I’d read so much about diesels on GMN. Good stuff.
                                1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                                1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                                GMN Box Panther History
                                Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                                Box Panther Production Numbers

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