1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel

[kishy]

In a couple years that's going to be an unobtainium part, is my bet.

[gadget73]

Only other thing it lists for application is the Mark VII. I looked up the BMW 524td, starter looks similar but the solenoid is not the same and the brush set is different. It might substitute though. Its more expensive so not interested in buying one just to find out.

Extra weird, all the metric shit on this car and the case bolts that hold the starter together are standard US machine screw thread with a 3/8 head.

If the high idle were set right it would start even easier in the cold, but I had the block heater plugged in so it kicked off easy. The high idle cable clamp was pulled but the adjustments for all that are totally wrong. There is a gap that is set with a thumb wheel, then you remove the thermostat and set another gap with the cable clamp position. I know the thumb wheel isn't where it belongs, I'm guessing the clamp wasn't right either. I got the part of the manual that covers all that. The cooling system gets drained when I do the timing set, and I have a thermostat to install so I will take care of it then.

The little lift pump is cute. The one in the trunk was a previously replaced one, also not original I think. No Ford numbers anyway. Seems that the clamp I'd expect it to sit in is gone, so I may make up something for that. Probably just find a padded pipe clamp that fits decent and bolt it to the frame.

[gadget73]

bullshit hood light wiring, with stealth Chevy belt tensioner just barely in view


No bullshit


eventually I'll probably put a hood liner in, but it needs more important stuff first. Tires that weren't made in 1992 might be a good start.

[P72Ford]

Way cool project Thain!

Looks like a pretty nice shop too!

[gadget73]

yeah its not bad. There are some things I'd have done different but my input was actively discouraged. I wanted to lay PEX in the floor for heat and install a lot more outlets. I can fix the outlets, bit late to do anything about the floor heat. It was my mom's ex's "man cave". He moved out, I evicted the TV and picnic table and parked a car in that space.

Just in case anyone was curious what 33 years does to paper cone speakers that live in poorly sealed doors, here you go. Bar on top is a 6" scale for my own reference.




may not be obvious but the cone has a significant warp, the coil rubs, and overall it sounds like complete shit. But its original, and a premium speaker.

[DerekTheGreat]

I'll get to pulling two JBL door speakers for ya with the old connectors. What do the rears take, 6x9's? If so, are they the same as Mark VII's or like Townies?

[gadget73]

6x9. Not sure which honestly, it has a set of Optimus speakers in there that are working OK for the moment so not super concerned about those honestly. I have a set of basic Kenwood dash speakers on order. Its just the door speakers that are hammered.

Half the reason I pulled the door panel was to fool with the keyless entry. I got the trim up enough to verify the keypad is the same as a Towncar one, but the extra keypad I had is shot so no-go there. Kinda makes it difficult that it is 80s Towncar honestly. Those were gone years ago, and the ones in the yard are usually shot too. If it was the Mark VII style I could either get a Mark keypad, or probably fit one of the similar ones out of a 90s or early 2000s vehicle into it. The 80s Townie and Conti keypad being part of the dew wipe trim makes it harder. And of course since they face straight up the sun and rain just destroy them.

and in unrelated news I actually legally own the car now. I was simply in possession of it, but I got it titled in my name today.

[87gtVIC]

Whats wrong with the keypads that you cannot fix? I know you love tinkering with things so I am a bit perplexed here.

[gadget73]

Got to looking at the rear deck, a JBL out of a Mark VII or similar wouldn't work. The deck is flat, so the speaker would have to be as well. I had a plain JBL pair around here, but I can only find the one. F it, I'll just rock the Optimus for the time being.


The keypads are all sealed up so getting into them is near impossible. They also have a rubber cap with a plastic number underneath for the button, or sometimes its printed directly on the rubber piece. The rubber caps crack and fall apart or get so hard and faded you can't read the numbers through them. Electrically its 5 buttons and a light bulb, no magic to it, its just the physical construction is such that making something that fits and looks right would be damned difficult.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Food for thought on the keypads. There are rumors online those things were optional on F-series trucks of the OBS variety, and that LMC truck does or had at some point or another carried some sort of a reproduction keypad for that application. Knowing Ford, if there's any truth to that being a factory option, it's very likely said keypads are used in some other vehicles as well, and a good chance that's been the case for a long while. Has anyone looked into possibly using a keypad off an early- to mid-'90s Towncar for example?

[gadget73]

Those were meant to go into a cutout in the door, not into the trim like this one is. Not impossible that there is a way to liberate the actual keypad from that piece to graft into an 80s Towncar or Continental though.

Some pics of the POS in question. This one is already shot so taking it apart is not exactly a big deal.



This is where they go, Continental and Towncar are the same.



The 90s Towncar, part, which is similar to Mark VII, Mark VIII, and a lot of other things with keypads. There are some slight differences but they all use this basic installation setup where its part of a bezel and it mounts on the more vertical part of the door rather than being integral to a piece of trim

[gadget73]

Working on the timing belt and water pump swap. No reason for the water pump other than you have to remove the belt to change it, so while I'm in here....

Drill bit is to lock position of the injection pump. Its not quite lined up where it should be, I expect thats slack in the belt. It should be 8mm, or a 5/16 bit.



Radiator looks good inside from what I can see. No cap, so all I get is what I can see through the inlet and outlet ports. Fairly thick core too.



The scale is on the inside lip, it would be 2 1/4" outside to outside. Two row, but wide rows.

I also found a very Ford problem. Not exactly sure what this harness connector is for, but it goes up to the header panel. I'm guessing its all lighting. Either way it needs to be fixed.



Better.



Boss bought me a heat gun for Christmas and it got broken in. Much nicer than doing this with a lighter.

[sly]

+1 heat gun

[sxcpotatoes]

How do they mount up in there? Because the one on my '82 Mark VI is falling down in so there's a big gap on mine towards the 9/0. I taped over it with electrical tape to keep the water out. I think I checked out the 'push last two buttons to lock' and it worked, but I didn't want to break anything further.

Planning on having the guy that does the window seals/dew wipes/etc (and passenger window motor replacement) take care of it when he's in there if possible. I think the code is around somewhere but will definitely pull it off the interior of the door if it's accessible.

[gadget73]

The keypad? There are two little pieces of spring steel up inside the trim piece. If you lift the trim up, you'll see them inside. They will pop right out with a screwdriver. Basically its a bit of spring steel wedging it up there, its not a proper clip. If one of those clips moved, rusted, or just fell out the keypad would droop.