Would 3.73:1 be too much gear for an HO-swapped panther?

[Giraffe]

Another question for y'all: what is the benefit to having a traction lock differential if you're not trying to modify the car entirely for performance?

While I want to HO swap the car and add a healthy exhaust to get a bit more power, my main goal for the car is to maintain the smooth-driving, boulevard ride, grandpa feel of the car. Do I really need a traction lock rear end? I don't have to worry about driving this car in snow perhaps once every ten years or so. Is there any advantage other than being able to do two-wheel burnouts?

[packman]

Snow? Don't know if your part of TX sees it or not. The track lock made getting unstuck easier when the lopo was still running. Problem I had was when I got on it, the lopo didn't rev high enough to keep the rear from kicking out on me. I suspect with a mod'd HO, I will be able to keep that car straight..........hopefully.

[sly]

TL is only for getting un-stuck or keep from getting stuck. All other bad weather driving is keeping it from working like a spool and just sliding one wheel. It sure is fun to drift in the snow though.

[gadget73]

well, traction. Helps in rain and other less than ideal conditions. Also helps with launches on dry, instead of the one tire fire you actually get traction and accelerate.

Put it this way, my diesel car will do a one tire fire with 180 ft-lb of torque and a 3.73 rear. If I can roast the tire with that gearing and that little of an engine, a traction lock is useful.

[DerekTheGreat]

I love me some trak loc. Even underpowered turds benefit from it. Our F150 is case in point. We can actually pull out in traffic in the rain. No more one inside tire fire like gadget mentioned, it moves instead.

[Brown_Muscle]

In addition to the aforementioned points it makes the car more predictable. If you go sideways...by accident or on purpose with an open diff, and for whatever reason the wheel that is spinning gets traction and the other side looses traction, it can be a bit unpredictable, or launch you into a tree like someone I know.

[Giraffe]

Great responses. I'm really just trying to find excuses to not spend the extra $250 to get a used t-lok. Just gotta save my pennies.

[Brown_Muscle]

$250. shit, i got mine for $40 at a u-pull it yard, and bought a rebuild kit for maybe $80?...but i rebuilt and installed it myself, so i guess their labor counts for something

[Giraffe]

$250 is what I was quoted for a place in Fort Worth that has a used one they'll throw in along with a gear swap. A junkyard about an hour from my house quoted me the same price for one out of a '96 Mustang GT. I'm sure I could find one cheaper, but they're getting scarce.

[DerekTheGreat]

Right, the U-pull yards around here only charge you for the name, like "Axle" or "Engine." They give 0 fucks if it's got posi, disc brakes or what it came from.

[Giraffe]

There are a couple of local yards that don't post their inventory online. I'll have to give their panther selection a look sometime in the near future.

[Tiggie]

Don’t overlook most 4.0 Rangers as 28 spline traction lok donors. Many of the 4.0 4x4 trucks are traction lok. Avoid FX4 as some of them got 31 splines and a Torsen LSD, unless you want new axles as well.

[Giraffe]

I assume the axle codes are the same across all Ford and Mercury vehicles? The trucks didn't use different codes?

[Tiggie]

This may prove helpful. Never have I ever seen a factory 4.56 truck.

[sly]

ranger max tow package me would think.