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    CFI running rich, where to start?

    My temp tags on the 84 are about up and I need to get the Colorado emission test done but its been running super rich (based on exhaust smell) so I haven't bothered taking it in to test. (nothing I love more than blowing $25 each time)

    I know its about the dumbest (in ECM terms) EFI system, but does it function the same as a typical system? (ECM uses O2 reading to adjust injector pulse, etc)

    I still need to check if it even has its cats (duel exhaust) - probably not.

    Suppose it has dual O2 sensor as well?


    The good news is I can get 5 year collector plates so I just have to get up to snuff for this test then not have to worry about it again until 2023.


    Thanks,
    -Charles

    #2
    These have one single O2, non-heated (1-wire), located on the passenger side. Unfortunately that's the harder side to get to, but it's doable from above. If you have the chubby style sensor (a lot of factory ones were), you need an "offset" O2 sensor socket, as the ones that look like normal deep sockets with a slit in the side don't fit on the chubby ones. If you have the skinny sensor, any O2 sensor socket will do the job. Experience talking...do it with the exhaust hot or you're breaking a socket.

    You can check it for codes like any other EEC-IV vehicle, and that would be a good starting point. Something might be totally out of whack like the coolant temp sensor. But O2s for the 1-wire cars are only 12 bucks or so, even at bricks+mortar parts stores, so it's not a bad idea to swap it out and not a big loss even if it changes nothing. I'd stick to Bosch or NTK, the factory one is probably an NTK.

    Cats will be a must for emissions, I really don't think there's a way to get it under HC and NOx at the same time so it'll pass without them. Also make sure your EGR works, or you're never ever gonna make it happen for NOx.

    If it does not have cats or the cats are beyond dead, the exhaust will smell quite bad.

    A small nitpick: EEC-III CFI is the "dumbest" Ford FI system. EEC-IV CFI is actually fairly sophisticated, and pretty smart.
    Last edited by kishy; 02-07-2018, 02:30 PM.

    Current driver: Ranger
    Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
    | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
    Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
    | Junkyards

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by kishy View Post
      These have one single O2, non-heated (1-wire), located on the passenger side. Unfortunately that's the harder side to get to, but it's doable from above. If you have the chubby style sensor (a lot of factory ones were), you need an "offset" O2 sensor socket, as the ones that look like normal deep sockets with a slit in the side don't fit on the chubby ones. If you have the skinny sensor, any O2 sensor socket will do the job. Experience talking...do it with the exhaust hot or you're breaking a socket.

      You can check it for codes like any other EEC-IV vehicle, and that would be a good starting point. Something might be totally out of whack like the coolant temp sensor. But O2s for the 1-wire cars are only 12 bucks or so, even at bricks+mortar parts stores, so it's not a bad idea to swap it out and not a big loss even if it changes nothing. I'd stick to Bosch or NTK, the factory one is probably an NTK.
      That's good to hear, I'll prick one up. I'd bet the original one is on there.

      Cats will be a must for emissions, I really don't think there's a way to get it under HC and NOx at the same time so it'll pass without them. Also make sure your EGR works, or you're never ever gonna make it happen for NOx.

      If it does not have cats or the cats are beyond dead, the exhaust will smell quite bad.
      Naturally, though if they expected the cat to burn off that much fuel then they were out of their minds.



      Funny side story, I have an old Jeep pickup that ran rich when I got it a few years ago. I was going by the emissions test place and I saw there was no line so I decence to hell with it and pulled in to see where my numbers where. pre 81 just gets a probe in the tailpipe no dymo. Shocked the hell out of me when it passed. fast forward to next test by that time I had got it running better and replaced a lot of the holy exhaust. Took 3 tries, a new cat and a new EGR to pass that time. Turned out the exhaust was just holy enough for how rich it was running that it didn't throw a 'excessive oxygen in sample' warning on the test equipment. I've got 5 year plates on that now too!

      Comment


        #4
        Check the vacuum lines. Any leaks tend to make it run rich, especially if its the line to the MAP sensor that leaks. The ECM sees low vacuum as high engine load so it fattens the fuel mix up as a result.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          thermostat letting it run too cold can through it off it will think its in choke mode
          Scars are tatoos of the fearless

          Comment


            #6
            Finally put it up on ramps to get a look under it.

            No Cats




            I assume this exhaust flap is to block off exhaust to force it through the intake manifold cross over to help heat it up. Hopefully its normally open. What controls the vacuum on that? is it one of the electric vac switches on the dr side of the throttle body? or is it a mechanical coolant temp type switch? Either way thats a vac leak when activated.




            What is this goofyness?



            Missing oil level switch or something? kinda looks like one of those bolt in drain plugs.




            At least it even still has its O2 sensor!

            Comment


              #7
              That vacuum dashpot probably has something to do with the Thermactor (read: smog) system, however, it looks like it's on the exhaust manifold? I haven't seen that on my '87, but it does have Lincoln Logs on it now. It very well be for the purpose you mentioned.

              You're definitely missing your "CHECK OIL" sensor. Looks like it's been leaking for a good minute where it busted off.

              You can get replacement direct fit catalytic converters if you need them to get it registered. One caveat exists with them is that the ports for the Thermactor system are on them. Do you still have the lines coming from the Thermactor system or is that all absent? Some people have just capped (or welded) up the holes where the Thermactor lines went and were able to pass their emissions test.


              My Cars:
              -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
              -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
              -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
              -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

              Comment


                #8
                Yep, its on the driver side exhaust manifold.


                You talking the Air Injection System? It still has the pump and all the hoses, the hard line is hanging cut off. I'll have to re do that system too for the inspection.


                It looks like the Cats aren't too expensive either, ordered a pass side for $45 and the driver side was $60 they guy spent more effort than that cutting them out and scabbing in new pipe.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Birdofprey View Post
                  Finally put it up on ramps to get a look under it.

                  No Cats
                  Yep, that's going to be most of why it smells bad. My Lincoln smells pretty nasty and the cats are (as far as I'm aware) broken apart in pieces, plus exhaust is exiting the body of the cats prior to the catalyst material anyway.

                  If you are one to opt for the direct-fit choice, Magnaflow makes some which are not very expensive.

                  Originally posted by Birdofprey View Post
                  I assume this exhaust flap is to block off exhaust to force it through the intake manifold cross over to help heat it up. Hopefully its normally open. What controls the vacuum on that? is it one of the electric vac switches on the dr side of the throttle body? or is it a mechanical coolant temp type switch? Either way thats a vac leak when activated.
                  You are correct. This normally-open valve acts as you described. The butterfly at the end of the exhaust manifold is spring-returned to normally open. With no vacuum, the exhaust flows through.

                  Off the top of my head I believe it is controlled by one of the ports on the Ported Vacuum Switch on the rear corner of the intake manifold. It might have a solenoid but I don't recall that being the case.

                  This part only exists on CFI cars, to my knowledge.


                  Originally posted by Birdofprey View Post
                  What is this goofyness?
                  Missing oil level switch or something?
                  Yep. It might actually be intact in there, and just the wire terminal got ripped off. I see it commonly in junkyards and have unintentionally done the same when trying to salvage those sensors as well.


                  Originally posted by Birdofprey View Post
                  At least it even still has its O2 sensor!
                  Yep. Looks like the one I took off of my 84. I'll bet it's factory.

                  Current driver: Ranger
                  Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                  | 88 TC | 91 GM
                  Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                  Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                  | Junkyards

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks for the info guys!


                    After seeing how the low oil sender really looks its less worrysome. When I first saw it I thought the pan was missing a plug or something.



                    I'm not going to worry about it. I probably wipe down the whole pan so I can see where the current leaks are. But for as wet as the underside looks it doesn't drip too bad, relatively speaking.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Interesting what you find when you search for Ford #s... (screenshot on RockAuto)



                      That's a pricey little bugger.
                      Despite the application list I'm reasonably confident every vehicle that uses the 1-wire version (there also seems to be a 3-wire version) of the switch will interchange. Reasonably.
                      Last edited by kishy; 02-08-2018, 04:11 PM.

                      Current driver: Ranger
                      Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                      | 88 TC | 91 GM
                      Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                      Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                      | Junkyards

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Yeah, ford part numbers are annoy as hell. The part ID number is E4VF-6C624-BA but the ford Part Number is E4AZ-6C624-A I would love to find a way to easily search and match the 2 numbers.

                        This is where I found that photo:

                        https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1984-92...R/192294577609

                        Even that one is $90

                        For that price I can pull the dip stick and look at it.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The sensor is in place, you're missing the electrical connector. Wipe the pan off, get somem CRC QD electrical contact cleaner to flush out the sensor itself and plug it back in. The wire comes down with the oil pressure sender wire. Pressure sender is above the oil filter. If you've got a lonely looking wire that seems to go noplace, pretty good bet thats what it is. Assuming your car has the check oil stuff installed. It might just be a replacement pan.


                          I think the exhaust flapper thing is actually solenoid controlled. I know there are 3 on the valve cover. One is idle kicker, one is evap purge, and I think the other one is the flappy thing. Maybe not, it should be on the emissions hose routing diagram in any case. If you've got a vacuum line going nowhere, thats probably it.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                            I think the exhaust flapper thing is actually solenoid controlled. I know there are 3 on the valve cover. One is idle kicker, one is evap purge, and I think the other one is the flappy thing. Maybe not, it should be on the emissions hose routing diagram in any case. If you've got a vacuum line going nowhere, thats probably it.
                            Whoops. Popped open the EVTM and you're right, there is an "exhaust heat control solenoid". I don't remember how the ported vacuum switch is plumbed in anymore apparently, and the VECI decal is outside under half a foot of snow, so that's the best I can do.

                            There is a throttle kicker solenoid, EGR vent solenoid, EGR control solenoid (these 2 are combined into the EVR in newer cars), making a total of 4 solenoids on the driver side valve cover. TAD/TAB live by the MAP on the passenger side inner wheel well liner and the evap guy is somewhere around the...battery? Ish?

                            Current driver: Ranger
                            Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                            | 88 TC | 91 GM
                            Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                            Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                            | Junkyards

                            Comment


                              #15
                              The evap purge on these is wierd. The thing that actually passes gas vapors is vacuum operated, the solenoid for it lives elsewhere. I always thought that was one of the ones on the valve cover. Didn't realize it used 2 for EGR. I had assumed it ran an EVR on the fender like later cars.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment

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