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Thread: Intake replacement time!

  1. #1
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    Default Intake replacement time!

    It appears that my 03 LX Sport has developed some leaks on the intake. So while I'm doing this, does anyone have any suggestions on what else to replace while I'm in there? I already plan on replacing both heater hoses and the coolant pipe from the water pump, and thermostat. Far as I can tell everything is OEM from '03 on it. And no, I won't be replacing the main rad. hoses at this time as they are still in good shape. Coolant was flushed last year so that is good as well.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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    No mean-spiritedness here. IPreferDIY's Avatar
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    The only things that come to mind at the moment are a ported and polished plenum and a 70mm throttle body.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

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    Member EaOutlaw1969's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordMan77 View Post
    It appears that my 03 LX Sport has developed some leaks on the intake. So while I'm doing this, does anyone have any suggestions on what else to replace while I'm in there? I already plan on replacing both heater hoses and the coolant pipe from the water pump, and thermostat. Far as I can tell everything is OEM from '03 on it. And no, I won't be replacing the main rad. hoses at this time as they are still in good shape. Coolant was flushed last year so that is good as well.
    When you flushed the cooling system and refilled it with coolant-antifreeze mixture did you use tap water or distilled water?
    2000 MGM LS Palm Beach Edition a work in progress

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    I always use distilled water in my cooling systems.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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    Anyone have the bolt torque specs for the intake and a diagram of the tightening sequence?
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

  6. #6
    Member EaOutlaw1969's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordMan77 View Post
    Anyone have the bolt torque specs for the intake and a diagram of the tightening sequence?
    This may help double check it works for your year car http://www.autorepairinstructions.co...take-manifold/

    I am not sure how far along you are on this project, I started to watch the videos in the link I provided and have not finshed watching them yet.

    The guy seems knowledgeable enough yet I am more cautious when doing this type of work. I like to clean my engine and engine bay as good as i can before starting a job like this.

    Then I like to have the car running and disable the fuel pump which is as easy as smacking the inertia switch or finding and removing a fuel pump relay or fuse to purge any fuel pressure before starting the job.

    I also would make sure to cover any opening on the old and new intake where anything could get dropped in the engine, this guys video has him blowing off intake around the injectors while he has the throttle body off and the intake wide open. LOL I am sure it is hard to think of everything while trying to make a video.

    A few other things I would have done differentley than the guy in the video is to make sure each bolt hole for the intake is perfectley clean and I would clean the bolts plus add a little anti seize to the threads or thread sealant if any of the holes are not blind holes.

    He could have taken a few minutes to vac out the area under the intake plus clean it up some.

    I like to use dow 111 or simular o-ring lube to any of the seals to insure a good seal

    As far as the intake replacement I would go all in on a good all alluminum replacement but I am sure the updated plastic with alluminum coolant runner may be just fine.

    My injectors, coils, plugs, heater hoses thermostate would get replaced while I was doing this work just because I had most of it out anyways.

    Anyways I wrote this to help anyone doing this work and reading this post I am sure you know what you are doing and may consider this advice common sense.

    Good luck with the project
    Last edited by EaOutlaw1969; 03-07-2018 at 06:43 AM.
    2000 MGM LS Palm Beach Edition a work in progress

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    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordMan77 View Post
    Anyone have the bolt torque specs for the intake and a diagram of the tightening sequence?
    Yes, I do. Here you go...
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IntakeTorque.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	25.4 KB 
ID:	49507

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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    Thanks sly! One question though, is this the most updated one from Ford? Reason I ask is I found a different pattern that was said to be an updated one.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    probably not. it's from the 2004 production DVD service manuals.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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    Thank you for checking. The one I found was from 2017 so that's why I was asking. Has the same torque rating but a different pattern.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

  11. #11
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    post it if you can... I'd like to take a look at it.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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    I'll post it tonight when I get home.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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    No mean-spiritedness here. IPreferDIY's Avatar
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    Will you be using a new Ford intake? If so, would you mind checking a couple of things for me when you get around to it? I'm planning on doing an NPI to PI swap eventually and got a couple of used PI ones from U-pull yards since new ones are too expensive to get in Canada. The heat seems to mess them up even at relatively low mileage.

    1. When I hold a flat edge across the four air intake ports on each side, I find the center is high, so that the flat edge rocks from end to end. When the intake sits on the heads, that would mean the middle part is in contact first, and the ends stick up until torqued down. Since the torque pattern is basically a matter of starting in the middle and workout outwards, I'm wondering if the new ones are actually made with that bow or whether it's a heat effect.

    2. I also find that the edges of the individual air intake ports tend to bulge out. I'm figuring there's something funky going on with the plastic when in use. Can you check if they're perfectly flat on a new one?

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

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    Here is the diagram I found. Let me know which one I should use.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	fordintakemanifoldto.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	59.6 KB 
ID:	49508
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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    Quote Originally Posted by IPreferDIY View Post
    Will you be using a new Ford intake? If so, would you mind checking a couple of things for me when you get around to it? I'm planning on doing an NPI to PI swap eventually and got a couple of used PI ones from U-pull yards since new ones are too expensive to get in Canada. The heat seems to mess them up even at relatively low mileage.

    1. When I hold a flat edge across the four air intake ports on each side, I find the center is high, so that the flat edge rocks from end to end. When the intake sits on the heads, that would mean the middle part is in contact first, and the ends stick up until torqued down. Since the torque pattern is basically a matter of starting in the middle and workout outwards, I'm wondering if the new ones are actually made with that bow or whether it's a heat effect.

    2. I also find that the edges of the individual air intake ports tend to bulge out. I'm figuring there's something funky going on with the plastic when in use. Can you check if they're perfectly flat on a new one?
    Yep, brand new Ford Racing PI intake. I set my 4ft. level across both sides of the air intake ports and there is about a 1/16" of a gap from end to end so it can rock a bit but might as well be perfectly flat as far as I'm concerned. The gasket will have no issue sealing that up. The only place that it seemed to have a larger one was at the coolant crossover. It did have about an 1/8" gap at that point if I laid it across all the runners and the crossover.

    I looked at the inner edges of the ports and they all seem straight. Not sure what you're looking for there. Tell you what, let me finish up dinner and whatnot and I'll grab it and take a few pics for you. One showing the flat edge on it and then another of the ports in general. Visual might help on this one.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    The one you posted is more proper. center out. I always wondered about that with the one I posted... which is why I just went center out and torqued to spec... ish. 18ft-lbs... anything between 15 and 20 is probably fine... and knowing my torque stick.. 18 probably does somewhere in that range.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  17. #17
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    Thanks Sly. I'll go with the newer one then.

    I will say this is the first time I've had to remove the wiper assembly to pull an intake, lol. Got it all down to the fuel rail tonight (which I have to find my disco. tools for) and out it comes. TB butterfly was sticky when I removed the cables. Time to clean everything and make it fresh again.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

  18. #18
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Nice part about the PI swap in my 93... wipers stay put.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  19. #19
    No mean-spiritedness here. IPreferDIY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordMan77 View Post
    Yep, brand new Ford Racing PI intake. I set my 4ft. level across both sides of the air intake ports and there is about a 1/16" of a gap from end to end so it can rock a bit but might as well be perfectly flat as far as I'm concerned. The gasket will have no issue sealing that up. The only place that it seemed to have a larger one was at the coolant crossover. It did have about an 1/8" gap at that point if I laid it across all the runners and the crossover.

    I looked at the inner edges of the ports and they all seem straight. Not sure what you're looking for there. Tell you what, let me finish up dinner and whatnot and I'll grab it and take a few pics for you. One showing the flat edge on it and then another of the ports in general. Visual might help on this one.
    Thanks for checking. I suspect they wouldn't be able to get the plastic perfectly flat from end to end if they wanted to, and I would guess they're made in such a way as to result in any bowing being up on the ends rather than down on the ends. I'm figuring it just gets worse with heat.

    For the bulging around the ports, imagine placing the gasket on the ports on the manifold and drawing a line on the plastic around the ports where the edge of the gasket is. What I'm feeling on my used ones is the plastic on the edge of the ports tending to bulge out where it's not covered by the gasket (i.e. the part between the edge of the port and the drawn line). The bulging doesn't seem nearly as thick as the gasket, but I might just carefully file down worrisome areas.

    Next time I'm doing pictures, I'll see if I can get worthwhile ones that I can put in my used intake thread:

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post802597

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

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    BTW, F the EGR tube, lol... Barely moved it and it decided to snap off about 1" up from the exhaust manifold. After a few hours of soaking the fitting with PB Blaster I somehow managed to break it loose from underneath and then used a vice grip to work it back and forth enough from up top to unscrew it. Just another thing to add to the list of parts to replace. At least it showed up now vs. once I had everything back together.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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