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Intake replacement time!

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    #16
    The one you posted is more proper. center out. I always wondered about that with the one I posted... which is why I just went center out and torqued to spec... ish. 18ft-lbs... anything between 15 and 20 is probably fine... and knowing my torque stick.. 18 probably does somewhere in that range.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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      #17
      Thanks Sly. I'll go with the newer one then.

      I will say this is the first time I've had to remove the wiper assembly to pull an intake, lol. Got it all down to the fuel rail tonight (which I have to find my disco. tools for) and out it comes. TB butterfly was sticky when I removed the cables. Time to clean everything and make it fresh again.
      These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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        #18
        Nice part about the PI swap in my 93... wipers stay put.

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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          #19
          Originally posted by FordMan77 View Post
          Yep, brand new Ford Racing PI intake. I set my 4ft. level across both sides of the air intake ports and there is about a 1/16" of a gap from end to end so it can rock a bit but might as well be perfectly flat as far as I'm concerned. The gasket will have no issue sealing that up. The only place that it seemed to have a larger one was at the coolant crossover. It did have about an 1/8" gap at that point if I laid it across all the runners and the crossover.

          I looked at the inner edges of the ports and they all seem straight. Not sure what you're looking for there. Tell you what, let me finish up dinner and whatnot and I'll grab it and take a few pics for you. One showing the flat edge on it and then another of the ports in general. Visual might help on this one.
          Thanks for checking. I suspect they wouldn't be able to get the plastic perfectly flat from end to end if they wanted to, and I would guess they're made in such a way as to result in any bowing being up on the ends rather than down on the ends. I'm figuring it just gets worse with heat.

          For the bulging around the ports, imagine placing the gasket on the ports on the manifold and drawing a line on the plastic around the ports where the edge of the gasket is. What I'm feeling on my used ones is the plastic on the edge of the ports tending to bulge out where it's not covered by the gasket (i.e. the part between the edge of the port and the drawn line). The bulging doesn't seem nearly as thick as the gasket, but I might just carefully file down worrisome areas.

          Next time I'm doing pictures, I'll see if I can get worthwhile ones that I can put in my used intake thread:

          http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post802597

          2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
          mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

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            #20
            BTW, F the EGR tube, lol... Barely moved it and it decided to snap off about 1" up from the exhaust manifold. After a few hours of soaking the fitting with PB Blaster I somehow managed to break it loose from underneath and then used a vice grip to work it back and forth enough from up top to unscrew it. Just another thing to add to the list of parts to replace. At least it showed up now vs. once I had everything back together.
            These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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              #21
              That would have sucked if it cracked and the crack went unnoticed until you fired it up.
              2007 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport

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                #22
                You're right, that would have pissed me off far more, lol.. Get everything all nice and new and then have to chase down the CEL for the EGR.
                These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

                Comment


                  #23
                  I finally got it all back together tonight. Primed the fuel system a few times to check for leaks (none thankfully) and it fired right up. Seems to like the new Iridium plugs I put in it. The old platinum Motorcraft plugs that I put in around 110K looked ok color-wise, just worn seeing as how it has 192K on it now. Just gotta let the cooling system bleed and then I'll take it on a test drive. I let it idle to bring up the heat and burp once then screwed the cap on. Heat is good and no hoses are leaking. Throttle response is much better too since I cleaned that and the MAF while it was apart.

                  Also have to make sure the air ride is still working. I replaced the insulators on the compressor finally since it sounded like it was trying to chew through the wheel liner every time it would pump up, lol.
                  These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

                  Comment

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