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Thread: Car dying, egr filter?

  1. #1
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    Default Car dying, egr filter?

    88 TC 302. Since i got this car it would sometimes die when putting it into reverse. Then restart and back up fine. Lately it has been getting worse. To where i had to give it some gas while changing gears. Then some days it is fine. Today it wouldn't start at all unless i gave it gas, but it idles too rough to want to drive.

    What i have done so far
    New fuel filter
    New plugs/wires/cap/rotor
    Vacuum lines cleaned up, new parking brake switch
    Several tanks of fresh 89 gas
    Battery is up and charging system works
    Air filter clean

    I read somewhere the egr has a small filter than can disintegrate and kill the idle. Supposedly it is under a round plastic cap on the passenger fender. Here is a pic of what i think is that part, with a new filter next to it for reference.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Is this the right part and how do i remove the cap? It will turn a little back and forth but not pop off. I read not to force or if it breaks the car won't run at all? thanks for any help

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    It's been choochin' fantastic ever since.
    cruisin my old 88

  2. #2
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    have to sneak a small screwdriver under the edge of the cap and then it will pop off.

    To see if this is your problem, unhook the vacuum line to the EGR valve. If no change, its not the filter. Replacing it won't hurt anything though, and I'd shoot some wd40 or whatever down the tube under the filter just to flush out any crap that got down there.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    Thank you. I was able to pop up one side and the little plastic tab was close to breaking so did not remove. i saw what looked like an intact filter so left it alone.

    also unable to disconnect a vacuum line, don't want to break anything. i did remove the electrical connector shown above and it didn't run any better. tried reassembling the connector with dielectric grease, no change.

    any other ideas what this might be? i read somewhere about the iac but do not know what that is and am not having any luck in a search?

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    It's been choochin' fantastic ever since.
    cruisin my old 88

  4. #4
    I post a lot... pantera77's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoulevardRide View Post
    i read somewhere about the iac but do not know what that is and am not having any luck in a search?
    Idle air control valve, it's on the side of the throttle body, two 8mm headed bolts hold it on. Pop it off and clean it out thoroughly.

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    Thanks, that did the trick. I pulled the valve itself apart and also douched out the tb ports best i could. For now it's running pretty good again.

    Mine was stamped 87, i should probably order a new one, it's pretty stained up inside. There is this Motorcraft one on ebay just under 60 bucks.

    Should I stick with oem or try one of the cheap ones from the zone? Job was kind of a bitch and i don't want to have to do it much more. thanks again

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    It's been choochin' fantastic ever since.
    cruisin my old 88

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    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    According to Steve, http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post792464, "Hitachi designed and made the originals for Ford".
    I'm not sure when Hitachi started making the IACs, or if they originally made the ones for boxes (that thread was concerning a '94 Town Car) but I did order a Hitachi replacement for The Scab. https://www.ebay.com/itm/372224374946 That's the one I bought. It arrived a few days ago and certainly looks like the originals that I have seen minus the Ford stamp. I got mine on sale for $30 shipped, but can't seem to find the same ABV0034 on ebay for less than $38 and change shipped, but that's still a fair savings compared to almost $60.

    Edit: Here's another post from Steve mentioning Hitachi being Ford's original supplier which does mention the 5.0 in boxes: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post805335. Having met Steve, I know his line of work is in parts which is why trust what he's saying when it comes to parts (and more, he's a smart dude).
    Last edited by VicCrownVic; 03-11-2018 at 10:17 PM.
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - I'll fix it eventually
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic


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    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoulevardRide View Post
    Should I stick with oem or try one of the cheap ones from the zone? Job was kind of a bitch and i don't want to have to do it much more. thanks again
    OEM, or like VicCrownVic said, get the Hitachi unit. I've tried one of the regular parts store IACs and it could not hold a steady idle. It caused it to lope up and down until eventually it got too low and stalled the engine.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (320K Miles) - The Hideaway & April 2017 POTM Winner
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    Looks like the zone has the hitachi for 37 bucks includes gasket. https://www.autozone.com/engine-mana...95340_282446_0
    Will go order one today, need to resupply on brake clean after this job anyway. thanks for the tip! even with tax cheaper than ebay and i get to support a local store.

    Yeah yesterday before i started on this job the car, if it would start, would lope like a Pro-stock or nitro Funny car. Except instead of a big smoky burnout it would just die then not restart. i'm hoping this fixes the problem it was getting to be a major bummer.

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    It's been choochin' fantastic ever since.
    cruisin my old 88

  9. #9
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoulevardRide View Post
    Thanks, that did the trick. I pulled the valve itself apart and also douched out the tb ports best i could. For now it's running pretty good again.

    Should I stick with oem or try one of the cheap ones from the zone?
    Douched...

    My advice is to hoard a few old originals from the junkyard. I went through two separate motorcraft replacement ones that behaved exactly as the one I tried to replace. Thought it was just how my car was going to be. Then, I went junkin' with VCV and found a minty looking one from an '87 CV along with a minty air cleaner lid with the blue sticker on it... I douched that one out real good, separated the stepper motor from the body of it, lubed it and then slapped it on. No more "voom..voom..voom..correct idle" any more when trying to come down from fast idle after starting. Oh I hated that...
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    ... I douched that one out real good, separated the stepper motor from the body of it, lubed it and then slapped it on. ...
    uh-oh i did not think to lube it. what did you use for lube, and where?

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    It's been choochin' fantastic ever since.
    cruisin my old 88

  11. #11
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I used Lucas chain lube on the motor portion of it, just kinda let a few drops work itself in and hoped as the motor did it's thing it would work itself in even further. For the body portion with the valve thingy I think I used the same stuff, sparingly there too as I didn't want to attract more smut build up. It's been choochin' fantastic ever since. Can't beat the cast in Ford logo either. Another reason the aftermarket one irritated me.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  12. #12
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    honestly I never replace those things unless they aren't working. Pretty sure the one on the Mark VII is the original with near 250k on it. I've never removed it, cleaned it, or honestly done a damn thing with it because it works.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    honestly I never replace those things unless they aren't working. Pretty sure the one on the Mark VII is the original with near 250k on it. I've never removed it, cleaned it, or honestly done a damn thing with it because it works.
    I haven't had to dick with the one on our '91 Mark VII either, 158k on it and it's perfect.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    It's been choochin' fantastic ever since.



    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Can't beat the cast in Ford logo either. Another reason the aftermarket one irritated me.
    Yeah i really dig finding original stuff where least expected


    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    honestly I never replace those things unless they aren't working. Pretty sure the one on the Mark VII is the original with near 250k on it. I've never removed it, cleaned it, or honestly done a damn thing with it because it works.
    It if ain't broke don't fix it

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    It's been choochin' fantastic ever since.
    cruisin my old 88

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    Well just a little followup. We're between blizzards and i wanted to get my annual inspection over with before the next dump, don't want to piss off the mechanic with it dripping slush everywhere. I have 4 good studded tires mounted but my summers are questionable as far as passing. Studs need to be removed end of next month so i want to get the sticker with the good winter tires, then buy myself some time to figure out what to do with all seasons. So i was kind of stressing when it wouldn't run as far as getting it inspected on time.

    Anyway yesterday i went outside first thing and it fired up and idled smooth. Called the local inspection shop and they got me in for the afternoon. Car purred right into the bay and it passed except for a rear brake line, the easy one. Guy said it was "as clean underneath as you can get for the year." Which is pretty good being a maine car lol. I'm going to let them fix the line next week and i can take my time now, finding some good summer tires.

    Also i ordered up the 37 buck Hitachi iac from the zone. Like gadget and Derek i prefer original parts, but with the props from Wolf and VCV i feel good about keeping the new one in my spares box just in case mine craps out again. Changing it out is enough of a task for me, without having to spray out the old one again, i don't do well with fumes, headaches etc.

    Besides the one on the car looks like an old dirty carburetor inside, kinda discolored, kinda rough surfaces, etc. i figure for 37 bucks it's cheap peace of mind even if i never need to use it. thanks again for the help!

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    It's been choochin' fantastic ever since.
    cruisin my old 88

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    And a final followup to the title of this thread.

    I managed to get the egr filter cap (or whatever it's called) pried off with some wd40. The filter looked ok but old, so having a pack of alleged new filters on hand i removed it.

    As you can see the filters ain't the same. I even removed the white top from the black body of the new filter, hoping it would work, but it don't
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Of course in removing the old filter my fat thumb kind of crumbled a hole in it. For now it is back in place as the new one ain't even close. i did shoot some wd down that tube just for luck.

    Anybody know where i can find a new filter for this? the yelow one on the left, it kind of resembles a weedwacker primer bulb or a small bell with a big hole in the center.

    i would also trade my 3-pack (now 2-pack) of mystery black/white filters for one good egr filter lol

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    It's been choochin' fantastic ever since.
    cruisin my old 88

  17. #17
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I've never seen the orange type before. All the ones I've run into have been the grey type.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    Positively the last followup. A couple days after cleaning the original iac the car started dying again. Fortunately the Hitachi arrived and fixed the problem. Although the idle was now kind of high, especially when shifting out of park, the rpms would flare before going into gear, which didn't seem like a good idea for the trans.

    anyway i took the car on my first interstate trip, after an hour i noticed the idle was way high. Like, it would idle at 25mph on a flat road.

    When i got home i oiled up the original iac and reinstalled it, helped a little but still the car would idle up a hill at 12+ mph.

    Noticed the long pink vacuum line going to the thing on back of the smog pump had come off. And the hard vacuum line coming off the egr was broken in half.

    So i fixed those 2 vacuum lines, still idled way high.

    Then i noticed there was an idle adjust screw on the tb. Never saw one of those before on an fi car. Backed it out about a hundred turns, added some loctite, it purrs like a kitten. That was 6 weeks and a lot of miles ago.

    Probably the p.o. had cranked in the idle screw to make up for some kind of deficiency. Gradually getting this car sorted out and enjoyable to own and drive. Oh and i cut up some of the wife's pantyhose and replaced that crumbling egr/evr filter with it, so far so good.

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    It's been choochin' fantastic ever since.
    cruisin my old 88

  19. #19
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    That screw is more commonly referred to as the "do not touch" screw. Sounds like you are setting things back to normal, so it was good to mess with it in this case.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  20. #20
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah, its the throttle stop screw. Its meant to hold the blade open just enough to keep it from jamming on the throttle body bore. If its been messed with the usual way of resetting it is to unplug the IAC and adjust the screw to get the idle around 500 rpm with the engine warmed up. Its not that uncommon for someone to dick with it in order to try and fix an idle problem when there is another part at fault. Bad IAC is the usual reason for low idle, but if you jack the screw in enough, the IAC doesn't really have to work in order for the car to keep running.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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