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    #61
    The Quarterhorse can do I think 4 programs if you wire up the selector. I think it can switch on the fly too.

    The spacer is more useful for heat insulation than anything else. It helps keep the upper from heat soaking so the air charge is cooler. The runner length change probably doesn't affect things all that much. You'll need at least a 3/8 spacer to clear the fuel rail anyway.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #62
      don't think the 1" spacer is gonna clear a grand marquis hood. 1/2" probably.

      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

      Comment


        #63
        Uhh, guys... I found a used mustang turbo kit for $300, only thing missing is the intercooler, apparently. https://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/...816007086.html
        ,
        Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

        Comment


          #64
          Remember... you do want to actually drive this right? Project creep is a real thing.

          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
          Originally posted by gadget73
          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
          Originally posted by dmccaig
          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

          Comment


            #65
            A supercharger would be better. More low end torque. Turbo lag is a thing, especially if the turbo isn't properly sized. Turbos are also prone to bearing failure if the oil supply isn't right. Run them dry or dirty and the bearings wipe out, then you're SOL. A wiggle test on the turbine shaft will usually tell you enough about it to make a judgement but if its way too cheap its probably for a reason.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #66
              Here's some beefy injectors (which I think fit) and a lot of parts that don't, but somebody here might be able to use. There's an ON3 turbo kit for a 2V 4.6 pretty cheap if anyone is interested, guy says "needs waste gate(s)" but I don't know/don't think it comes with the turbo either. https://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/...802476483.html
              ,
              Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

              Comment


                #67
                probably means blow off valve. Most turbos have an internal wastegate, but the BOV is needed to keep the turbo from beating the crap out of itself every time you shut the throttle after a pull. Unless he means the actuator, thats external. The wastegate is a flappy thing inside the turbine (exhaust side) housing. Basically as it opens, it lets exhaust bypass the turbine in order to control boost pressure.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #68
                  I would stay the naturally aspirated route. A turbo system is going to be a significant amount of work, with the risk of reliability issues.

                  I am currently in the planning stages of a push-rod 302 for my '90 LX. I wanted to do a Coyote swap, but at the end of the day even though the engine is cheap, the rest of the swap is not.

                  I have looked at a number of OTS cam grinds, and I had at one time actually settled on the Anderson N41 (mine is not a fuel mileage build). However, a custom ground cam from Ed Curtis (FlowTech Induction) is only $400. Given the nature of your build, I would definitely say that is your best option. A little more expensive, but if the performance and especially drive-ability is even marginally better, an additional $70-$150 is a small price to pay.
                  **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                  **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                  **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                  **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

                  Comment


                    #69
                    Found some used BBK headers (probably the 1515s) for $125, I know they're hit or miss with the GT40P heads, but hopefully I'll be getting the AFR heads put on. Think I should just go ahead & pick these up?

                    I'm debating whether or not to have the bottom end checked/refreshed on whatever motor I get, and having the rings done too when the heads get put on.

                    What's a decent ballpark price for an engine rebuild? Are there any shortcuts? Like I found this 302 roller block already 30-over to build a 306 for $300. https://cleveland.craigslist.org/pts...822096711.html

                    Vs getting a block for $50-100 https://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/...811944310.html

                    Obviously there are going to be some costs to get things checked out to make sure the motor is worth building. I'm going to try to talk to a couple machine shops here and see how much a build would run. I know short blocks are like $2300 from summit.

                    I mean it would probably be cheaper and easier just to get the Explorer motor and have a machine shop out in PA slap the heads and intake on with a cam, and trust that the bottom end is going to hold up.
                    ,
                    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

                    Comment


                      #70
                      Like a machine shop rebuild? You're looking at about 700-1100 bucks or more depending on what all you're having the machine shop do. I had the block bored, a few broken bolts extracted, rotating assembly installed, cam installed and degreed, brass core plugs, etc. With parts and whatnot I think I paid 900. I installed the heads, timing cover, water pump, oil pump, oil pan and whatnot myself.

                      Comment


                        #71
                        i have a short block in the shed that the tree fell on if we go the rebuild route.

                        1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                        2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                        1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                        1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                        2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                        1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                        please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                        Comment


                          #72
                          Got the shorty headers for $100 & the guy threw in Ford Racing valve covers for $40 more. I see no interface for posting pics but they're matte black with red Ford symbol and Ford Racing text. I hope they fit/work. https://twitter.com/SexCpotatoes/status/1101624040970772480
                          Last edited by sxcpotatoes; 03-01-2019, 11:21 PM.
                          ,
                          Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

                          Comment


                            #73
                            Found a 351W the guy claims is a "factory rebuild." haven't called yet to find out the story. I know the AFR 1402 heads will fit a 351, just don't know if I would need to look for different intakes or whatever, if the budget allowed a jump to that.

                            https://akroncanton.craigslist.org/p...829706191.html
                            ,
                            Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

                            Comment


                              #74
                              Now I'm wondering what injectors to go with, as I'm seeing some 42lb flow-matched injectors on ebay for like $59 (I don't know if they fit the motor). Because I googled the part number of some 30lb injectors I found on CL used for $150, apparently they've got refurb 30 lb sets cheaper than that including shipping.
                              ,
                              Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

                              Comment


                                #75
                                Go big with injectors. Biggest you can afford. You settle out the rest in the tune. You will always have enough injector for future upgrades then.
                                ~David~

                                My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                                My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                                Originally posted by ootdega
                                My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                                But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                                Originally posted by gadget73
                                my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                                Comment

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