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    Weird Cooling Fan Problem

    This sad story is about my 2008 CVPI P71.

    My A/C has been working great, until yesterday during the heat of the day. Went to gas station to fill up. When I was leaving I turned on the A/C and it blew hot air for a little longer than normal. I joined traffic and once moving, the air turned cool, then cold. Came to a red light and the A/C went hot. Once again when moving it started putting out hot air. This cycle was repeated until I got home. I assumed low on freon. Took the wife's car to my grandson's house to pick up my gauges, dropped by Autozone and picked a couple of cans of freon. When I got home I hooked up the gauges and got surprised. First - the engine was bogging down rather severely when the compressor kicked on. It would stay on very briefly (30 seconds?) and then switch off. This cycle was repeated while I was hooking up the gauges. I opened the low side and was surprised to see it almost pegged when the compressor was off and drop to about 120-130 psig when the compressor kick on. Opened the high side gauge and it was almost pegged when compressor was off and was pegged when on. I then also noticed that the cooling fan was not running.

    At this point I thought the problem was about to be solved as I have two working spare fans and fan control modules. Switched modules first and none of them would start the fan installed on the car. I then brought out the other two fans and they would not run either. I then bypassed the module and found that all the fans would run with direct 12V applied. Found all the fuses that are related to A/C stuff on the internet. They were listed as: BatteryJunction Box fuses # 11, 21, 101 and 102 and CentralJunction Box # 8 and 15. My car did not have a #8 fuse, but everything checked as good.

    So this morning I simply started over because I was stumped and quickly found that each of the fan control modules would now start any of the 3 fans. I think the only thing that is different is the temperature. It was well over 90 degrees yesterday and this morning it is a little over 70 degrees. Does anyone know what I need to look at now? I'm hoping it's something simple that I'm overlooking due to my lack of experience with the panther platform. My previous daily driver was a 1977 Mercedes 300D. I've alway performed all my own maintenance and repairs.

    Stumped in Baton Rouge!

    ETA - forgot to mention that the car never overheated during this adventure yesterday. At the time I really thought that perhaps the cooling fan was working once the car was underway. Is that possible?
    Last edited by BayouFlyFisher; 05-31-2018, 10:01 AM.
    Baton Rouge, LA
    My Daily Driver - 2008 CVPI
    Wife's Daily Driver - 2004 LS430

    #2
    PWM signal from the PCM to the fan module may be disconnected/broken. Do the newer PWM systems have the big ass relays for power? Check those if fitted. Also, if the coolant temp sensor went bad but didn't fail open/short, that could cause the no-fan issue as the PCM thinks the temps are a constant cold. Even the newer cars can check the coolant sensor with a multimeter. Check it before starting the car and it should read a value close to ambient temp and then run the car to operating temp and it should read the value listed for about 200F. If the value doesn't change, replace the sensor. Also, make sure you don't have a coolant leak. If the coolant isn't reaching the sensor, it won't read right either.
    Chart here: http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page28.html

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      #3
      Alldata indicates no relay. Power in from fuse 11 in the batt junction box, ground in from G102, PWM input from the PCM, two outputs to the fan. Basically if you have power and ground in and the fans work when directly powered the only black boxes are the PCM and the fan control module itself. Barring any bad connections of course.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        Fixed !!!

        Well, it's fixed. It's been quite an ordeal. Here's what I found: The fan is turned on and off based on readings from the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor. This sensor is not in the coolant stream. It only reads the temperature of metal of the head. The computer then determines whether the fan should be on/off and what speed based on the signal it's getting from the CHT Sensor. This sensor in behind and to the left slightly of the alternator and under the intake manifold. I could barely touch it with 2 fingers. After lots of futzing around with it, I decided to try shortening a 12 point box end wrench. I figured I would at least be able to get that on the sensor body. I cut an old 19mm wrench down so the whole thing was a little less than 3" long. I was able to fit it over the sensor and then turn it 1/12 of a turn at a time. It was very hard to break it free and then a long slow process of 1/12 turn at a time.

        The mistake I made from day one of this ordeal was in not immediately checking for codes. I didn't do it initially because I never saw a CEL. Finally out of desperation, as nothing I did was solving the problem, I hooked the Autel MD808 Pro up and it showed one code - P1289. Here's what I found about that code: P1289 FORD - Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Greater Than Self-Test Range. So, $23 fixed this problem. Fan is doing as it should!
        Baton Rouge, LA
        My Daily Driver - 2008 CVPI
        Wife's Daily Driver - 2004 LS430

        Comment


          #5
          Good to know that the CHT is the fan control sensor.

          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
          Originally posted by gadget73
          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
          Originally posted by dmccaig
          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

          Comment


            #6
            Interesting that it relies on that only and not also the water temperature sensor.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment

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