MZT for 2000 GS

[Charlie Mercury]

Looking for a complete MZT set up. Thanks!!

[Charlie Mercury]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/03-04-mercu...itleDesc=0%7C0

Is the the entire MZT??

Thanks!!

[Mr Bean]

That's the airbox and a tube. You still need a tune.

[Charlie Mercury]

Understood. Thank you for responding. If you or anyone else can help, I was reading the MZT and basic modifications and I am a little confused on the throttle body upgrade. It says going to a 75mm "Some side effects are bogging at low rpms" (my plans include 4.10 gear and nitrous) but yet the MZT upgrade mentions going up to an 80mm. Any clarification on this would be awesome. Thanks!!

[Mr Bean]

MZT upgrade talks about upgrading the MAF sensor to 80mm from stock 70mm. Not throttle body.

[IPreferDIY]

Since you have a pre-2005 (when they went to drive-by-wire (DBW) and changed throttle bodies), you can get a 70mm throttle body from certain vans and trucks:

https://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/...Number=2112884

(The YC2U-BB also works and might be more common.)

The stock throttle body is 65mm, while the stock MAF is IIRC 70mm (except for 2004+ CVPIs, which IIRC are all 80mm, though only the 2004 CVPI zip tube works with earlier panthers due to the IAC and valve cover tubes that plug into the zip tube before the throttle body). Changing to a 70mm throttle body alone does not require a tune, and it's a cheap and easy thing to start with. You can also port and polish the plenum (the part that the throttle body bolts onto) to get more air flowing through it without requiring a tune, but that takes more work:

http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...um-(with-pics)

When you change the MAF, the computer needs to know how to deal with it, and that's why you need the tune.

Do you have dual exhaust? If not, you might want to try that too. It does not require a tune either.

Also, until you change the air filter box, you can take the stupid trumpet off the front of the stock box. It really restricts air flow. Again, no tune required.

[Charlie Mercury]

Thank you for the clarification. Great info. I just purchased the Marauder eBay item I showed to Mr. Bean. I am trying to find a 75mm throttle body(any suggestions on this?? BBK??). I also picked up a set of P.I. heads and intake manifold from a 2005 Crown Vic Civilian car last Sunday from the U-Pull-it Yard for $65. Making decent progress so far. Would the ported Plenum for adtr be worth it? or just get the one on my GM done? (I would not have the tools or craftsmanship to do it my self.)

I have not done the exhaust yet but that is definitely on the agenda. True Trac and gears and the drive shaft too. Car already barks 2nd gear with no j-mod so I doubt I end up doing that.

[IPreferDIY]

I'm cheap and lazy, so I can't help with fancy stuff like the 75mm TB or ADTR plenum. You got a great deal on the heads and manifold. AFAIK, if you use the PI heads on an NPI engine, you get higher compression and will need to use premium gas. Using just the PI camshafts and PI intake manifold reportedly gives about the same performance boost but allows for use of regular gas (and reportedly does not require a tune if using the stock MAF), but I'm guessing money isn't an issue for you.

The weak points on the PI intake manifolds are the plastic parts that the aluminum part bolts to. The thin walls of the gasket grooves like to warp and break, so check yours.

http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...old-Worthwhile

Using a PI intake manifold on an NPI engine requires some RTV on two of the coolant ports, and also a PI heater tube (and possibly the corresponding nipple if not already equipped). Also, the aluminum CVPI drive shafts require using your original slip yoke or equivalent and a spacer at the back end. (That one's on my "to do" list.) I would presume you know about these things, but it can't hurt to point them out, especially for others who might not know.

The J-mod is not so much about performance, but rather longevity. By reducing the durations of slippage between gears, the wear parts will wear less. Also, there are certain valve body parts that are known to wear more than they should (IIRC, pressure regulator, reverse boost, and OD boost), and it's so easy to change them while doing a J-mod or vice versa.

Another possibility to consider is an ARA3 PCM from a 1999 CVPI. It's reportedly the best stock tune from 1998-2000, with 2000 being the worst year overall. (The best from 1998 is reportedly YYA6, and the best from 2000 is reportedly NKL4.) I don't know much about tune stuff, so I have no idea if getting a tune on a crappy stock PCM is any worse than getting a tune on a better stock PCM.

[Charlie Mercury]

where would I start a build thread to track progress and have conversation about what I am doing and looking to do?

[IPreferDIY]

Click on the big “Forum” button at top left, go down to “GMN Reader’s Rides”, and when you're in there click on “+ Post New Thread” on left side.

[Charlie Mercury]

Thanks!!