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Rear Shock Replacement up to 2002

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    Rear Shock Replacement up to 2002

    I don't recall seeing a rear shock replacement thread for the annoying rear shocks up to 2002, so feel free to direct me elsewhere if the topic has already been covered comprehensively. Otherwise, it seemed like a good idea to compile people's experiences in one convenient place. I haven't actually done mine yet, so at this point I'm interested in seeing tips and options.

    I've casually looked at mine over the years and contemplated what I've read in various places, but looking at them more closely suggests it ain't gonna be anywhere near as easy as some have made it sound. I could be wrong, but here's what I'm dealing with on the passenger side of my 2000 MGM:

    Click image for larger version

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    (I neglected to get a shot of the driver's side at the time, but it's about the same except with no lines running beside it.)

    It's hard for me to even imagine getting a wrench on the damn nuts (and having to deal with the oil spray doesn't help). But, it's been done by others. Here are a few YouTube videos:






    Has anyone had any luck without destroying the old shocks? If the new shocks end up outlasting the car, I would want to put the old ones back in if it's possible to do a final trip for the drive-in rate at a junk yard.

    Something I'm thinking of doing is asking the local Ford shop if they have any special tricks, or even whether they would put on aftermarket shocks if their shop time/price is reasonable.

    As far as the need for rear shocks goes, I'd like to put if off as long as I can, but I'm pretty sure I'm due. I get more bounce out of the ass end than I would like (though it's not too bad), and I can see rust marks on the air springs where they've been contacting the axle tubes. Are the rust marks a definitive sign that the shocks are done?

    And one last thing for now, for the metal part that the KYB rear shocks have in the bottom bushing, is there a convenient coating for it to prevent rust? I can just imagine the bare metal surface of that part inside the bushing developing a rust coat that ends up acting like sandpaper against the bushing.
    Last edited by IPreferDIY; 07-09-2018, 05:11 PM.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

    #2
    After the nut is loose it helps to have a ratcheting box wrench. FreeAll or the like is your friend.

    If you scratch the piston the shock is shot anyway.
    Last edited by jaywish; 07-09-2018, 06:21 PM.
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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      #3
      Only way I've ever been able to do it is using a really long wrench to hold the nut and turning the shock. Once shocks are in, basically I consider them to not be reusable. Most of the time things rust to the point of having to destroy things to get them back out again. Vise-grips to turn the shock if necessary help.

      If the back end bounces too much, the shocks are probably done for.

      Watch out for the lower hardware on aftermarket stuff. I had a problem with mine that I finally figured out was the lower mount just didn't hold. The OE stuff has a shoulder on the lower bolt that fits nicely into the hole in the rear. The KYB rears I used to have didn't have that shoulder and the bolts were smaller in size than the hole it passes through. It just relied on the nuts clamping it together. Mine didn't and it actually let the shock move around enough that the hole isn't quite round anymore. I have since replaced them with Motorcraft that fit like they ought to. Unfortunately the Motorcraft lower hardware is designed in such a way that its not really practical to recycle to another shock, so if I ever replace these with non-Motorshaft I may have to make a bushing so it fits properly.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        I live in the south and don't have to deal with the rust issues...
        I use a small open-end/box-end wrench that the open end fits the nut up top and go up from under the car to wrench the nut off blind. If I need to hold the shaft to break the nut free, I consider the reason I'm removing the shocks. If they aren't bad yet, wait. If they are bad, vice grips on the shaft or if there's a hex shape at the top of the shaft shroud, channel locks on that. I've never had much trouble getting the nut free... though getting it all the way off is a tedious affair.

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

        Comment


          #5
          I found I had to basically destroy the old shocks on my 1997 when I got them off. But i'm a ham fisted ape head. That nut placement is a huge PITA too. Glad I only had to do that once. Some guys cut in access panels and I almost don't blame them.
          ************************************************** ******************************
          1997 Crown Vic - Mostly rust free, moderate mileage. On the road... but far from perfect. **SOLD**
          1985 Crown Vic in 2-Tone Blue **SOLD**
          http://automophiliac.blogspot.ca/

          Comment


            #6
            I've done it on rusty cars.

            I have found it difficult to snap them on some cars as you cant get enough shock movement to get sufficient "plastic deformation".

            If I can't snap them I take a utility knife to the boot (if they are plastic), and snap some vise grips on the shaft.

            I second the comment that shocks should only be replaced when they are bad (unless its a hobby car), so damaging them is really a moot point.
            **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
            **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
            **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
            **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

            Comment


              #7
              The rear shocks are the only reason I have a set of ratcheting wrenches. I bought a set from Sears about 15 years ago to put air shocks on the 84, and I don't recall having used them on much of anything since.

              RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

              '80 Town Coupé
              '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
              '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

              Comment


                #8
                I’m giving Liquid Wrench a go, so we’ll see what happens with that. Everyone seems to be able to get the nuts to turn, so I’ll just cross my fingers. I definitely want a “Plan B” though, since there’s no going back once you mess with the shaft. What I ended up doing on the front shocks years ago was filing the nuts down on one side, but I don’t see myself trying that on the rear. I’d be prepared to resort to an access hole if it comes down to it.

                There’s no step on the KYB metal piece for the bottom of the shock, so I guess I’ll just resort to reefing it to the high end of the torque range. I’m gonna see if I can find a place to powder coat those pieces for cheap. Either that or try some kind of paint that would be almost as good.

                2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                Comment


                  #9
                  Worst case, just get a cold chisel, and a long holder and go in from the wheel well and give the nut a whack on a flat until you split the nut.
                  I did mine on the driveway from underneath, vice grips on the shaft, and a wrench up top, turn it until the vice grips hit the frame and keep wrenching until its off or something breaks.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Making it tight really isn't going to make it hold right if the hardware is too small to fit the hole. I'd see about finding a bushing to make sure it doesn't slop around. Even if its plastic that will be better than nothing but metal would be preferred.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by GM_Guy View Post
                      ... split the nut. ...
                      I wonder if a regular nut splitter would fit in there. If it has a hex screw, then at least one could use socket extensions.

                      Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                      Making it tight really isn't going to make it hold right if the hardware is too small to fit the hole. I'd see about finding a bushing to make sure it doesn't slop around. Even if its plastic that will be better than nothing but metal would be preferred.
                      I'm measuring the threads at ~0.495" and the very base at ~0.510". Dunno if that would actually qualify as a step. Any idea what the hole size is? (Stuff like this makes me miss the days when my father had his modest machine shop going. I suppose one could put a scrap piece of 1/2" ID aluminum tube from a metal store in a drill and file it down to size if necessary.)
                      Last edited by IPreferDIY; 07-10-2018, 09:01 PM.

                      2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                      mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                      Comment


                        #12
                        off the top of my head I do not, but faint memory makes me think its around 9/16.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Four years ago I tossed the FoMoCo shocks that were still on my '86 MGM Tudor with HD KYBs. Foolishly(?) I tossed the original hardware and attached the KYBs with the hardware they came with. I have not had any problems so far......are you suggesting that I will some time down the road??
                          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                          Only way I've ever been able to do it is using a really long wrench to hold the nut and turning the shock. Once shocks are in, basically I consider them to not be reusable. Most of the time things rust to the point of having to destroy things to get them back out again. Vise-grips to turn the shock if necessary help.

                          If the back end bounces too much, the shocks are probably done for.

                          Watch out for the lower hardware on aftermarket stuff. I had a problem with mine that I finally figured out was the lower mount just didn't hold. The OE stuff has a shoulder on the lower bolt that fits nicely into the hole in the rear. The KYB rears I used to have didn't have that shoulder and the bolts were smaller in size than the hole it passes through. It just relied on the nuts clamping it together. Mine didn't and it actually let the shock move around enough that the hole isn't quite round anymore. I have since replaced them with Motorcraft that fit like they ought to. Unfortunately the Motorcraft lower hardware is designed in such a way that its not really practical to recycle to another shock, so if I ever replace these with non-Motorshaft I may have to make a bushing so it fits properly.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Maybe yours will be fine, I dunno, I had problems. Maybe the specific hardware that came with mine was just an excessively poor fit. All I know is that what I took off fit poorly and what I put on fits perfectly. If it starts rattling in the back every time you get any axle movement, have a look under the car while someone bounces the rear. If you see the lower shock mount moving around on the axle, something ain't right.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Yep it was vise grips on the shaft and ratcheting box wrench on top for me.

                              Comment

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