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Semi-HO Conversion Prep

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    Semi-HO Conversion Prep

    Right now I'm in the preparation phase for doing some mildy-warmed over improvements on the '87's 302. Based on what has been determined in it's own thread, it is currently assumed a burnt valve on cylinder 1 is resulting in virtually no compression, so the head needs to come off. Considering the work necessary I've decided to toss on a set of free E7s in place of the factory E6s with a few other things. All donor components are from a '89 Mustang that got a complete top end rebuild.

    That said, I want to make sure I've got a good idea of things going forwards as I've been cruising the forum going through threads just to ensure I'll be ready to go. Just for clarification, this is not a full HO swap, but hopefully something to add a touch of pep to a LoPo.

    So, things that are changing:
    Mustang 63mm throttle body
    Bored LoPo EGR Spacer
    HO Upper Intake
    E7 Heads
    HO Valve Covers (Just Because)

    Things that aren't changing:
    ECU
    Camshaft
    Lower Intake
    Fuel Injectors (14# type)
    Exhaust Manifolds (1990 Lincoln Logs)
    Transmission Shift Governor
    Exhaust System (Converted to Dual exhaust, factory size pipe)

    I figure slightly better flowing heads and intake should still pair reasonably well with the low end torque LoPo cam. Maybe if I'm lucky power output would be roughly in the 180-190 HP range over 160 HP. That's probably a bit optimistic, but I'm sure there should be some improvement over the paltry 160 HP.

    Anyway, that moves to getting stuff stripped down and back together, so a few questions/things to verify:

    1.) Any tricks on getting an EGR spacer off? I realize the studs that go through the spacers like to corrode and lock those things up. I've got to get the Mustang spacer off so I can fit up the bored one on.

    2.) Anything special that should be used on the lower intake gaskets? I know they should need a dab of RTV in each corner where the little strips will run across between the heads. Does anything need to go around the water ports?

    3.) Anything special I should do when removing the push rods beyond keeping them in order in which they are removed?

    4.) Do the cylinder head bolts need any thread sealer put on them?

    5.) Would 1.7 roller rockers be worth my time/money in this situation? I recall having them mentioned to me a while ago and was curious if anyone was using them. If so, I'll start looking for a good set.

    If anyone else has anything else to add suggestion/tip wise, feel free.

    I want to be able to move into working on this with a solid game plan. I'll be in possession of the "new-to-me" parts on the 29th. I'll probably kick off the repairs in August. In the meantime, I'm going to go ahead and get all my gaskets and such that'll be needed.


    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

    #2
    #2 I do use RTV around the water passages on the intake and head, along with the corners as you mentioned. Be sure to get the awesome Felpro gasket set with silicone ends instead of cork. They are awesome.

    #3 I just keep them in order.

    #4 I would use a sealer. Permatex #2 has been used by my old school dad. Not sure if there is something better on the market now or not.

    No help from me on 1 or 5...

    Why not do the cam and computer and go full HO?
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

    GMN Box Panther History
    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
    Box Panther Production Numbers

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Tiggie View Post

      Why not do the cam and computer and go full HO?
      Donor camshaft was messed up, otherwise I would have taken it and gotten the ECU and 19# injectors.

      Anyway, if I decide to do it at some point, much of the supporting mods are already on it.


      My Cars:
      -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
      -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
      -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
      -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

      Comment


        #4
        You have not mentioned swapping the panther throttle body lever onto the mustang throttle body, though you may be aware if it.

        you can double nut the egr spacer/throttle body studs and remove em from the intake (all four) and rubber mallet the egr spacer off. The studs just thread into the intake. Cleaning them up once removed would be a good idea.

        I lightly silicone the china wall gaskets (front and rear gaskets of the lower intake) when I install them. I too would recommend getting a set of the rubber ones.

        I lightly silicone around the water jackets as well.

        The lower head bolts need sealer. They do go into water jackets.

        I heard its worth it for the roller 1.7 rockers.



        I wish you were closer. I have an HO stick that came in my rebuilt short block and a Lincoln Mark VII HO puter I would just donate to the cause.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




        Comment


          #5
          1) if you have spare studs and it absolutely refuses to come off, maybe vise grips to unscrew the studs. Add some heat and penetrating oil as needed. Propane is about as hot as it will stand.

          2) I don't RTV anything but the very corners of the lower intake gasket where they meet the end wall gaskets. FelPro Permadry for that, the ones with the cork bits are useless. If you have pitting on the intake or head sealing surfaces though, a very light wipe of RTV is not a bad idea.

          2a)Pipe dope for the corner bolts on the intake works well.

          3) make sure they aren't bent or damaged. Look through the hole to make sure its not plugged. Honestly I've never bothered to keep them in order either.

          4) pipe dope works fine here too.

          5) meh, use 'em if you got em but I don't know that it will do much and there is a possibility of needing different pushrods. At a minimum you will need to confirm lifter preload is correct. If you can score a stock ported lower intake, I think it would be more worth doing that vs 1.7 rockers. If your stock rockers are worn out, I wouldn't hesitate to install an upgrade as the replacement.

          Run a tap through the holes in the block and the heads before putting the heads on, no point in having dirt and crap in there if its not necessary.

          Get some hardware store bolts in 5/16 that are long enough to be pilot studs for the lower intake. Cut the heads off and use them as guide pins to hold the gasket in place and line the intake up during assembly. Just make sure they are long enough to remove. Cut a slot in top for a screwdriver just to be safe.

          I might consider new head bolts too. Stock are fine.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
            You have not mentioned swapping the panther throttle body lever onto the mustang throttle body, though you may be aware of it.

            ...

            I wish you were closer. I have an HO stick that came in my rebuilt short block and a Lincoln Mark VII HO puter I would just donate to the cause.
            I know I’ve got to get the linkage swapped around. Looks to be straightforward enough.

            I personally wouldn’t mind going full HO, but the way it sounds around here is the low end grunt is missing. I would figure using an Explorer cam would put the punch where it needs to be in the low to middle versus middle to top. That said, there’s always room for improvement going forwards. The end goal right now is to get the car running properly again.

            As far as the lower head bolts go, those are the ones towards the exhaust manifolds, correct? I don’t want to go sealing the wrong ones. I really want to make sure this doesn’t leak. I’ve got a very slight coolant seep at the passenger side front of the lower intake manifold, so that’s something else I hope I can take care of with the gasket job. Depending on how the heads/intake look around the ports will determine if I put on any RTV.

            As far as those alignment studs go, it would be a corse thread 5/16”? I’ve seen some of the pictures where it was done, and would alleviate my concerns about lining that thing up just right.


            My Cars:
            -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
            -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
            -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
            -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

            Comment


              #7
              The lower head bolts are the ones just above the exhaust manifold. When you take everything apart you will see that the block remains full with coolant in those holes.

              I have used sealer on the four corners of the lower intake manifold. I know I have had coolant leak out of the front two before on me.
              ~David~

              My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
              My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

              Originally posted by ootdega
              My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

              Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
              But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

              Originally posted by gadget73
              my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




              Comment

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