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    #1

    88 mgm starts then stalls

    Okay so been having problems with my 88 mgm. Car would turn on fine then idle up and down and run ruff almost like it would misfire then die would have the step on gas to keep it running. Took it to a mechanic that I know all he did was disconnect the vacuum line for the egr and fixed it. Then sly told me it was those little things on the passenger side fender( not sure what they were called pic is at bottom). So I’ve been driving like that for a while with egr disconnect. about a month later check engine light comes on code 33 and 34. So i go to the junkyard and find a newer one( part on fender) hoping it was that. Reconnected the vacuum line for the egr. And works fine no more stalling like it did before. But check engine light is still coming on works great no stalls i then replace cap and rotors about a few days later then all of a sudden it would stall again but this time it idle just fine it dont fell like a mis fire or anything just runs then dies and idea what I could be.
    Ignition control module replace about 6 month ago
    Iac repalce about 4 months ago
    Alternator done about 3 month
    Tags: None
    #2
    Hrmm..
    You said you last touched the cap & rotor, so I would start there and compare old parts with the new ones you swapped on and make sure everything is seated properly.

    Also, you reintroduced the EGR to the game. Try and disconnect that again too. If it makes a positive difference, make sure the EGR passages are cleared out inside the EGR spacer and the EGR's pintle. Make sure that pintle also moves freely and that the EGR itself holds vacuum. Should take around 10in Hg or less to open the valve, but it shouldn't lose vacuum as it sits there under it.

    More edits:
    I once replaced my IAC motor with a fresh out of the box Motorcraft unit. Behaved just like my old unit. Got another unit from a junkyard, took it apart, cleaned the pintle thing inside the body, lubed the stepper motor and put it on the car. Been beautiful since. It used to surge coming down off high idle. So moral here is, just because it's new, doesn't mean it's no longer a problem.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
      Hrmm..
      You said you last touched the cap & rotor, so I would start there and compare old parts with the new ones you swapped on and make sure everything is seated properly.

      Also, you reintroduced the EGR to the game. Try and disconnect that again too. If it makes a positive difference, make sure the EGR passages are cleared out inside the EGR spacer and the EGR's pintle. Make sure that pintle also moves freely and that the EGR itself holds vacuum. Should take around 10in Hg or less to open the valve, but it shouldn't lose vacuum as it sits there under it.

      More edits:
      I once replaced my IAC motor with a fresh out of the box Motorcraft unit. Behaved just like my old unit. Got another unit from a junkyard, took it apart, cleaned the pintle thing inside the body, lubed the stepper motor and put it on the car. Been beautiful since. It used to surge coming down off high idle. So moral here is, just because it's new, doesn't mean it's no longer a problem.
      Cap and rotor were motorcraft from rockauto i made sure to compare them to make sure they were the same and installed the same way as removed. I haven’t done a vacuum test on the egr yet have to go buy a hand vacuum pump Today or tomorrow. Also i did disconnect the vacuum line for the egr and no change car would still turn off

      Comment

        #4
        Map sensor or the vac line going to the map sensor could be suspect.
        http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page27.html
        It's not easily testable for most people. When lithdoc had an issue with his MGM not wanting to stay running I suspected the MAP sensor so we just swapped mine in. That was enough to tell him he needed a new one.
        The cheapest one on RockAuto is about $27 while the Motorcraft one on RockAuto is $107.
        Vic

        ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
        ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
        ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
        ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

        Comment

          #5
          If unhooking the EGR valve made it run normal, the EVR (egr vac regulator, the thing in the pic) is bad. You will get a code 3 with no line to the EGR since thats the "egr valve not opening" code. 34 means its either not fully closed or the sensor is bad.

          Unhook the EGR valve again and see what that does for you. Ignore the codes for the moment since at least one will be expected with no vac line.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
            If unhooking the EGR valve made it run normal, the EVR (egr vac regulator, the thing in the pic) is bad. You will get a code 3 with no line to the EGR since thats the "egr valve not opening" code. 34 means its either not fully closed or the sensor is bad.

            Unhook the EGR valve again and see what that does for you. Ignore the codes for the moment since at least one will be expected with no vac line.
            Yeah i tired to unhook the egr and no change car still turns off I guess next thing is to check the map sensor since that the only thing i have never changed it. Since i have warranty on the iac and icm probably go get it replaced then try the map sensor

            Edit i have replaced map sensor about 7 months ago before cruise control didn’t work replaced and and the vacuum line to it same time.
            Last edited by Elias; 07-20-2018, 01:10 AM.

            Comment

              #7
              Might be worth making sure the EGR valve is fully closed. If you connected it after a long period, it may have gotten a nugget of crap stuck in there. It will not idle very well with that stuck open.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment

                #8
                Okay im stuck i took it to a mechanic I know he told me it was the ignition switch and key switch. I felt like it would turn off when key was jingled. Soi replace it with motorcraft parts from rockauto and still having the same problem. Any idea what it could be codes im getting now are in order 10 11 18 then 33
                Last edited by Elias; 07-27-2018, 02:34 AM.

                Comment

                  #9
                  is that engine not running? Only way you can get an 11 and anything else.

                  10 is a spacer code, means nothing
                  11 means all OK
                  18 IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded. (problems with ignition module wiring or the second wire off the coil is an open circuit)
                  33 EGR valve not opening

                  18 would be the one to concentrate on if you're having ignition problems.

                  http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...d.php?t=125806

                  worth a look. Our cars need the grey module.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                    is that engine not running? Only way you can get an 11 and anything else.

                    10 is a spacer code, means nothing
                    11 means all OK
                    18 IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded. (problems with ignition module wiring or the second wire off the coil is an open circuit)
                    33 EGR valve not opening

                    18 would be the one to concentrate on if you're having ignition problems.

                    http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...d.php?t=125806

                    worth a look. Our cars need the grey module.
                    Okay so today morning i took of the new distributor rotor and cap I replace with my old one i had and now its working fine I think something was wrong with the distributor cap idk

                    Comment

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