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Blower motor keeps dying 03 LX Sport

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    #1

    Blower motor keeps dying 03 LX Sport

    I gave the original blower motor a pass when it decided to stop working without being smacked with a rubber mallet so I replaced it last year with an aftermarket one. FF to today and it came home again with the same issue. I actually had it hit it pretty hard to get it to spin up this time. When I installed the new one I noticed that the velocity was nowhere near the original unit even on high.

    I know the blower motor controller on the firewall is suspect on these years so should I be looking to replace both the controller and the motor at this point or just go with another OEM Ford blower? Really don't want to burn out another fan again.

    Holding the fan control all the way up on the interior HVAC control does not make it come on (which should override the speed controls IIRC). The only way to get the blower to work is to smack the housing with a hammer.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Check the varible resistor it could be bad FordMan77.

    Comment

      #3
      +1 variable "resistor" is known for bad solder joints.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

      Comment

        #4
        also check connector wires and grounds for corrosion

        Comment

          #5
          Pull the blower motor module and resolder it. Usually that fixes the problems. Usually you'll see obvious signs of bad connection on the board where you need to repair it.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment

            #6
            Thanks guys. I'll pull the resistor out and take a look. Hope I can just reflow the soldier joints. It's such a PITA to get out I'd rather only mess with it once.
            These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

            Comment

              #7
              Maybe add a little solder, but yeah... just reflowing the joints on the power mosfet tends to get it done.

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

              Comment

                #8
                If you still have the old motor, check the contacts that the brushes ride on. When my motor seemed dead, the contacts were black, and cleaning them brought it back to life. I had pulled and cleaned the resistor and reflowed the solder with some fresh solder, but that wasn't the issue, though having done that, I'm fairly confident that it won't be an issue in the future. Clean the contacts on the plugs too while you're at it.

                2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                Comment

                  #9
                  I do still have the factory motor that I pulled out. I'll check it out as I'd like to reinstall it if I can get it to work again. Just not liking the aftermarket one.
                  These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Subject to any cautions that others might provide, you can test the old one by hooking it up to the battery directly. Just hang on to it tightly, since it will jump to full speed. Mine survived that process and hasn't given me any issues since.

                    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                    mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Good point. Yea, the torque on full spin up could be unexpected and I really don't want it dancing around on the top of the motor, lol..

                      I installed a replacement controller today and the existing fan worked just as it should. The old controller didn't look bad but there was one joint that showed discoloring. IDK, I'll let It run like this and see what I get. Hasn't seen a true road test but it will this week.

                      I'll clean up/test my stock blower just so I can put it back in and keep the aftermarket one as a spare assuming it works. I have a spare battery sitting on the bench right now so I can clamp the fan into my vice and fire it up to test.
                      These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        I've seen a few blower motor speed controllers where the PCB had been overheated enough to lift the traces off the board. Luckily, they are quite simple and its easy to follow the traces from one end to the other and soldering in a piece of wire to replace the burned trace will bring them back. I've heard bad things about the life expectancy of the aftermarket BMSCs so I just repaired my original one when it went funky.
                        -Steve

                        2006 Audi A6 S-Line FWD ~132k miles, stock.
                        1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~102k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
                        1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel, rustbelt diet plan..
                        1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Yeah, I read that too. Unfortunately I was in a crunch and couldn't keep messing with it since the heat here has been stupid. I plan on taking a closer look at the factory one and repairing it. If I can get it to work then I'll keep it and wait for the new one to die. Kinda a PITA to get to as I had to remove the heater core hose that comes from the WP tube from the back of the motor.
                          These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

                          Comment

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