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Thread: 2000 GM Restore and Build

  1. #1
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    Default 2000 GM Restore and Build

    Going to keep track of progress here. Want to thank a couple members in the Looking to Buy section for getting me going and also the guys at ADTR for emailing me and hooking me up with Marty. I got a set of P.I. heads and P.I. Intake from a 2005 Crown Vic a few weeks back. Had to strip the heads down to bare but got them for $40 and the intake for $25. Ordered and received the Marauder air box, zip tube and MAF today from eBay. Got that for $110 shipping included. Also, got the front driver and passenger window motor regulators in as well. Hopefully I can continue good progress over the next few months. Any advice and input is greatly appreciated.

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  3. #3
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    This is a pic of the car when I first got it in 2012. It sat up for about 5 years and developed a trunk leak and rust and mold, rusted roof, cracked intake manifold, flat tires, windows stopped working, battery and alternator went out and headlights turned dark yellow.

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  4. #4
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    There's a wealth of knowledge here to help you bring your Panther back to life and keep it going for years.
    '79 Continental Town Car
    '90 Crown Victoria LTD
    '94 Crown Victoria

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    I am super excited.

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    Vinyl Cheese, Meat Pasty SVT98t's Avatar
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    What are you plans for it?
    That's typically a good place to start.
    Let us know what you're trying to accomplish, and we can generally guide you in the correct direction; being it parts, ideas, or technical data.

    Welcome to the Party!!


    -ryan s.
    08 Lincoln Navigator L - 183k
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    97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 193k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
    73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
    Quote Originally Posted by pantera77 View Post
    Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.

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    Thanks Ryan!

    Bought: 80mm MAF, Marauder Zip Tube and air box, new window motor regulators, P.I. heads.

    Installed: P.I. Intake no tune

    Still to come: 4.11 gears with spool, aluminum draft shaft, J-mod, 75mm throttle body, ported plenum, fuel pump, cams, injectors, 75-100 shot and tune from Marty.

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-4209FRH-K/m...BoC0bgQAvD_BwE

    I know Yukon is a good brand and I know we have a 8.8 like mustangs so seems like it would work.

  8. #8
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    You planning to use this car only for racing? If street driving is in the cards, I would advise against the spool.

    You probably know that a spool locks both rear tires together and spins them at the same speed at all times. This is great for drag racing, but is not ideal for the street around corners. What you'll end up doing is stripping out one or both sides of the spool and possibly destroying the axle splines because you'll continually be putting opposing/twisting forces on the spool. I've seen a few Mustang guys who drove spools on the street only to have them fail.

    I would recommend sticking with a good traction lock differential if you'll mostly be driving the car on the street.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

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    I have driven lifted Toyota 4runner and pick ups on 37 inch boggers for years with spools. Did welded diffs first and then went to spools on other trucks. I was hoping a low powered car with smooth tires would be more reliable. Not that my trucks weren't reliable, zero issues with welds or spools. Not to sound smug or snarky hahah but i really assumed there would be zero issues given its a lighter car with no aggressive tires and half the horsepower.

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    went a 17.39 leaving it in drive. trunk gutted. 16.91 shifting manually.

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    out with the old, in with the new

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  12. #12
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Some respectable times there. Looking forward to seeing what the mods will get you.

    The old looks not as straight as the new. Probably a good thing I suppose.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

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    Thanks!!

    and yeah, when i took the old ones out, they came out in pieces. cables and blacks parts all in the door. its nice to have power windows again.

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    I guess racing a 20 year old car that has set up for several years wasnt the best idea.

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  15. #15
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    It probably would have broke anyway. You were just testing the integrity of the transmission. I guess it failed the test.
    That does suck though. Good luck with the rebuild/replacement.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

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    That is a good point. Better now than later. The $500 I have for the throttle body and porting the plenum is now going to go to a trans rebuild. I put a new trans filter, fluid and did some Lucas too so its still drive-able but gotta park it for now. Found a kit on Jegs that says its all performance but there are no horsepower ratings and its only $420 bucks?? any thoughts or input??

  17. #17
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    transmission kit will not change horsepower ratings. It only makes the shifts firmer and may make engagement better and fluid flow slightly better. This may translate to better times as there's less time spent waiting for full engagement, but HP will stay the same as that's all engine.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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    OH yeah i know it wont make the hp more. but the kit has an "up to" rating for what the trans will hold. I found one for almost $700 on monstertransmissions.com or something like that and that kit has a rating to handle up to 450 hp.

  19. #19
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    IIRC, the stock trans should handle 400-450 ft lbs with a proper build and j-mod. No real need for a kit for that. And if you're sticking with the stock 2-valve setup, even with boost, you won't be besting that without a lot of work (stock engine won't handle more than about 8 pounds of boost). The rear axle is the soft spot. Welding the tubes to the center and beefing up the control arms would go a long way. The real question is what is your end game. Where do you want to take this and how much are you wanting to spend on it? I'd start with a j-mod on the trans and when you get to a place where you need more support, then build it up more.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  20. #20
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    That is awesome advise Sly. Thank you. Sounds like it will save me a lot of money to just do a stock rebuild with a 3200 stall on the J-mod. Maybe find one in a junk yard and pull the pan and check the magnet and j-mod one that looks good. I will be doing all the normal stuff ( i made a list on an earlier reply here) plus 4.1 gears with nitrous 75/100. P.I. heads w/ cams will be the last thing to be done. ( all tuned of course) I really want to push the block/internals to their limits before doing an engine swap. I plan on spending upwards of $5k-$6k on the car over the next year. If that does not get me into the 12.8-13.2 range then we can figure it out from there.

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