Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

A/C accumulator replacement

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    A/C accumulator replacement

    I have a 2010 GM with a a leaking A)C accumulator.

    Any tips on replacing it myself? Seems to be the only thing in the cars that has really gotten rusty, and me and old rusted fittings do not have a good history.

    Is it worth trying to find an aluminum A/C accumulator vs the junk steel one that comes standard? What was Ford smoking when designing a component like this out of steel?

    Also, I noticed the motorcraft ones (which are far more expensive) looks like they come with a mounting bracket, the others I see don't. Do it need it? (The mounting bracket?)

    #2
    Originally posted by silverwhale View Post
    I have a 2010 GM with a a leaking A)C accumulator.

    Any tips on replacing it myself? Seems to be the only thing in the cars that has really gotten rusty, and me and old rusted fittings do not have a good history.

    Is it worth trying to find an aluminum A/C accumulator vs the junk steel one that comes standard? What was Ford smoking when designing a component like this out of steel?

    Also, I noticed the motorcraft ones (which are far more expensive) looks like they come with a mounting bracket, the others I see don't. Do it need it? (The mounting bracket?)
    The problem isn't that it was made out of steel. The problem was that they wrapped it in insulation that would retain moisture when it is functioning. Essentially rotting it from the outside in.

    If the system has refrigerant still in it, have it recovered by a shop. If the system is empty, Get yourself a set of quick connect disconnect tools from a parts store. These are really simple to use. Multiple sizes for multiple lines. I believe the drier uses the biggest one. Remove the cage from the fittings on the drier, and then insert the tool fully into the fitting. You should feel a click as the garter spring is pushed away from the joint. With that done, twist the line while pulling away from the drier end and the line should come right out. Repeat for other hose. The assembly is held in to the frame by (3) 13mm bolts. The low pressure switch is also attached to the drier so be sure to unplug that as well. The assembly comes out from the bottom. It's very easy to do.

    Once it's out, you can easily remove the low pressure switch with a 14mm(?) wrench or an adjustable, use a small screw driver to undo the 4 metal clips holding the case halves together. Then carefully separate the top and the sections will come apart.

    Clean the case, you will be reusing it, unless you get a motorcraft one, which comes as a whole unit minus the low pressure switch. Reassemble the case with the new drier and install the low pressure switch with a new o ring (if it hasn't already come preinstalled on the drier). The drier can only be installed one way, so no worries there. DO NOT REMOVE THE CAPS ON THE NEW DRIER UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO ATTACH THE LINES!!!!!! Remount the assembly, and replace the O rings that should've been supplied with the drier for the liquid and suction lines. If I recall, the o rings are the same size for both lines. but just to make sure always compare old to new! Use some refrigerant oil (PAG 46) to lubricate the o rings to aid in reconnecting the lines to the drier, and also add an ounce to the drier itself. After the lines are connected, immediately put the system into a vacuum for about 45 minutes or longer. If you have access to a vacuum pump, and manifold gauges, then you're set. If not, you may have to go to a shop. The idea of this is to remove moisture from the system. Moisture is very bad. Vacuuming the system lowers the boiling point of water and causes it to turn into a gas, in which, the vacuum pump removes it.

    After which, recharge it with the proper amount of r134a. That should be posted on your radiator support cover.

    Comment


      #3
      https://youtu.be/2bre6VBBhHM?t=103

      Comment

      Working...
      X