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Did I screw myself??.......grease on rotor studs

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    Did I screw myself??.......grease on rotor studs

    I do not know if I did a stupid thing that will come back to bite me in the ass, or get me killed

    After packing the bearings I dabbed a bit of grease on each of the the rotor studs.......then used an impact gun to tighten all the nuts down. Will that grease in time allow the nuts to walk out??

    #2
    Adding a lubricant to a torqued fastener alters the accuracy of the amount of torque you have to apply, because the torque effort is not acting against the friction of metal on metal, due to the lubricant.

    So it is possible to easily over-torque fasteners when lubricants are used.

    But in general, I'd say no, it doesn't make it more likely for the nuts to walk out. I use anti-seize on my lug studs and don't have issues. OTOH I have my wheels off more often than most folks.
    Last edited by kishy; 10-02-2018, 03:37 PM.

    Current driver: wagon
    Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
    | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
    Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
    | Junkyards

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      #3
      I'd sooner be concerned about the overtightening in case you need to change a tire at the side of the road. I'd loosen them and tighten by hand.
      I usually put a couple drops of oil on my wheel studs and wipe the stud down to keep rust at bay. I've never had a wheel fall off, or a lugnut loosen, nor have I ever had a problem removing nut due to corrosion.

      Alex.

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        #4
        right, its the ugga-dugga factor at play. 85-105 ft-lb is factory spec. A bit of lube on the threads won't bother it any though. Not even sure the type is overly important, just something oily to keep the lugnuts from rusting to the threads.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #5
          I agree with all of the above. I always use some kind of lube on the wheel studs, and I always tighten by hand with a torque wrench to 90ft-lbs, partly because I have aluminum alloy rims. I'd never trust an impact wrench on them, though I would even do the final torque on steel wheels by hand just because.

          2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
          mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

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            #6
            Thanks to all for your thoughts............guess I can sleep tonight;-)
            I used to have a good torque wrench, but somehow can't find it, may have let someone borrow it and never received it back.
            Hope I do not have issues because I do indeed have the original aluminum, alloy wheels.

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              #7
              i always use antisieze on the studs.

              1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
              2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
              1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
              1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
              2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
              1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

              please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                #8
                Yep, resonating all of what everyone else has already said. Been doing it for years with no problems and would never NOT apply anti sneeze or some type of oil to the threads to prevent seizing.
                1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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                  #9
                  On steels & turbines I use a breaker bar, when the car rocks I call it good.

                  I have a HF 1/2 torque wrench (inexpensive enough to keep in the car but pretty accurate per some independant tests) for the race wheels @ the track. As previously stated, a little lube is ok.



                  87 Ford LTD Crown Victoria Country Squire Station Wagon. 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, Boxed LCA's, Explorer Intake, 65mm T-body, 'Stang Cam, 'Stang Air tube, K&N, GT-40X Heads, 1" Spacer, 1 5/8 BBK's, 2.5" Pypes X-pipe w/high flow cats, Single Chamber Thunderbolts, B&M 'vertor, Po-lice Swaybars.

                  91 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park Station Wagon. K-Code, 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, MK VII LSC Engine, 'Stang Upper Intake, Stang Air Tube, K&N, 65 mm T-Body, 'Stang Headers, 'Stang Cat Pipe,'Stang Torque Convertor, 2 Chamber Thunderbolts.

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