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    Read end changes?

    How hard is it to replace a rear differential and gears? Shops around here are quoting me $500 labor if I supply the diff and gearing, and I don’t want the whole project to cost more than $500 including parts. Giving making the change myself another thought, but I want to know if that is something I should leave to the shop. For context, I have done just about everything short of rebuilding rear ends and transmissions at various points in time.
    2010 Mercury Grand Marquis LS “The Douche” - 70mm throttle body, P71 airbox, 21mm rear sway bay, dual exhaust, Dodge rims, 89K and counting. 4/2018-
    1966 Ford Thunderbird (390FE) “Fordy McFordface” - engine rebuild No. 3. 11/2016-
    RIP 2005 Buick LaCrosse CXS “Jumba” - gone too soon, 229K. 6/2017-2/2018
    RIP 2001 Chevrolet Tracker LT “Featherbrick” - gone too late, 156K POS. 6/2016-9/2016.
    Sold 2005 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - 198K. 6/2016-4/2018

    #2
    Some have had success with taking the new carrier, and original shims from your stock carrier. Try looking around local performance groups on Facebook or parts shops, I found my guy from a local performance shop. I got the rear built for $200 bringing all my own parts for the wagon. I did the one in my '05 myself, no issues with it but did not want to do it this time.

    LOUD EXHAUST IS FUN! AM I SHOUTING?
    1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker


    2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...

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      #3
      It can be done with a few special tools. dial gauge, mag base and torque wrenches. A slide hammer with bearing puller attachment would be nice. The biggest pain is the pinion gear. The bearing needs to be pressed on. Crushing the collar is 'fun". If the gear setting turns out good with the stock shim great, If not, then out it goes again.

      The posi carrier is not nearly such a PITA even if the original shims need to be changed. Most gears and carriers go in with the original shims just fine but not all.

      The issue is can the car be down if it requires a trip back to the machine shop? Unless you have a press and a bearing splitter. Also you may find that you need axles when the old ones come out.

      The first time I needed a carrier change I paid a shop. After it was in they said we don't check the clearance, the original shims work fine. So if you do use a shop find out specifically how they do the job.

      After that I did them myself. Budget sufficient time to do it right or slap it back together and see how it goes seems to be the two schools of thought.
      Last edited by jaywish; 11-01-2018, 04:22 PM.
      03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
      02 SL500 Silver Arrow
      08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
      12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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        #4
        Sounds like a shop job
        2010 Mercury Grand Marquis LS “The Douche” - 70mm throttle body, P71 airbox, 21mm rear sway bay, dual exhaust, Dodge rims, 89K and counting. 4/2018-
        1966 Ford Thunderbird (390FE) “Fordy McFordface” - engine rebuild No. 3. 11/2016-
        RIP 2005 Buick LaCrosse CXS “Jumba” - gone too soon, 229K. 6/2017-2/2018
        RIP 2001 Chevrolet Tracker LT “Featherbrick” - gone too late, 156K POS. 6/2016-9/2016.
        Sold 2005 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - 198K. 6/2016-4/2018

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