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Thread: Eric's 1989 Yellow Grand Marquis

  1. #41
    BANNED! sxcpotatoes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric62 View Post
    13. I am going to add relays to my headlights as well. These new car headlights blind me silly, making my headlights useless until my eyes recover. I just leave my brights on all the time nowadays.
    All new headlights are effing Criminal! Especially the automatic brights that blind you until they dim a little because they sense your headlights. I kind of want to rig up a photosensor on my A-pillar that triggers a bank of blinding LEDS on the the front of my car, it would only come on when something shined at my car at head/eye level above the DOT legal limit for on road vehicle light output.

    But, since that's too complex and I don't want to blind a cop, there's a better solution. You should get some shooting glasses, or yellow shades. You can get a pair of prescription or non-prescription cheap glasses with 10% tint. They cut down on the oncoming headlights at night so much that I can see the lane markings and if there's any debris in my lane on the road. https://www.instagram.com/p/eH86hhtVjF/ They even help reduce eye strain working with computer screens for long periods. I can't recommend yellow tinted glasses at night enough for safety, you don't have to look down and away and wait for your eyes to recover to see anymore!
    Last edited by sxcpotatoes; 02-01-2019 at 08:18 AM.
    ,
    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    As for your headlights, no offense or anything but I wasn't there to aim them for you so I can't exactly trust your job.. But I will say the factory headlights & aim job are garbage. At one point my spouse and I both had Town Cars, her's an '89, mine an '88. They had the same aim job so it must've been factory: Driver's side headlight was aimed ultra low and pointed off the middle of the car whereas the passenger side was aimed a few degrees higher and roughly straight ahead. Looked like two dark piss streaks in the dead of night. I was lucky enough to find "Made in USA" Sylvania Ultravision replacements (Ones I had to buy for my K1500 are now China, sad face.) dropped them in, aimed them and wow, what a difference. I could tell even with the previous aim job I gave the factory headlights. I've went on several multi day road trips and usually never pop my brights on, they're just that good to me.
    You can say anything you want about about my headlights or aim and I guarantee I will never be offended, lol.

    The tranny seems to be fine... My main reason for a shift kit is longevity, but maybe I will do the fluid change and check out the TV cable myself first. The shift kit can wait and I am planning on a thick reusable gasket.

    Thanks for the advice and the video... work will start next week.

  3. #43

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    A agree!!... Sometimes my interior is so lit up that I feel like I'm being abducted by aliens, and all mirrors are useless. Even when they are aimed correctly, roads are not all flat and trucks are the worst, and blue headlights are worse yet. I believe the blue are illegal, but I've never heard of anyone being pulled over for them.

    Yes, I need to start wearing the glasses. I bought some cheap ones a few years ago driving at night in the rain, but they were to weird. I'm sure if I start wearing them a little at a time I'd get used to them.

  4. #44
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I suspect a lot of the glaring lights are people changing things and not re-aiming the lights. Dead stock newer vehicles aren't nearly as terrible as the lifted Bro trucks. The blue is just obnoxious BS though.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #45
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Yeah, there are a lot of bro-dozers around here..
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  6. #46

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    Not the order I wanted to do things in, but the rust hole caused by the vinyl top trim was driving me crazy, so I started the slicktop conversion already. I ordered 3m adhesive remover, but so far have not had a need for it as the glues seems to be scraping right off. I'm only about an hour into it and so far it is easier than I expected, which never happens.

    I also figured out why I am getting copious amounts of water in my trunk... Rust below the trunk lid and above the tail lights. I will need to patch up the rust hole and the trim holes so I will try and patch up that area as well.

    My original plan was to paint the top white so I did not have to worry about trying to match paint, but the rust hole is too low and I will need yellow for that area anyway. Not sure yet. I bought some cheap white rattle can spray paint today to protect the roof a little while I am stripping it and it will give me an idea of what it will look like.

    I have parts that should be here in the next few days and then I will get the oil and transmission fluid changed, and start on the tune up.
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  7. #47

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    I was out removing the backseat and more interior pieces and outside trip today. I scraped all the glue off of the drivers side yesterday very quickly. It was cool out and the sun was setting... today I was out in the direct sunlight and the glue is gooey and sticky. I have seen others mention using a heat gun, but from my experience that seems counter productive, unless they meant just to rip the vinyl off, but that came off pretty easy as well.
    I have a small oxy acetylene torch, but not the correct hoses, so I ordered those yesterday. I can then start welding up the holes. I removed all of the sound deadening crap today so there will hopefully be no fires.
    As I work on this car, I like it more and more... For instance all the interior trim is attached with screws... I hate cars with 1000 different kinds of brittle plastic clips that I can never get back together correctly because half of them and the trim piece breaks, lol.
    Wrote a guy on Craigslist about doing the paint work. I have a compressor, but no paint guns and I have no water traps etc on my lines. I thought about it and I have very little desire to do more painting in the future so depending on the estimate I might pay to have that done and possibly save some time.
    Off to run errands... going to stop at a junkyard and see what they have.

    Eric

  8. #48
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    There are a bunch of brittle plastic clips, but mostly on the outside. Ford used the same clips on everything in the 80s, so the truck and Mustang market can usually yield up replacements if you need them. The interior clips are mostly just what hold on the door and some of the other panels on the side. They can be had too.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  9. #49
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Considered buying a cheap MIG? They are easy to use and you stand a lot less chance of warping the metal.
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, former lawn ornament
    Other: 95 Ranger, 74 F250, 68 Mustang, 94 Mustang
    Sold: 1982 LTD and 1987 Crown Vic

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  10. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    Considered buying a cheap MIG? They are easy to use and you stand a lot less chance of warping the metal.
    I will get one, but in the long run torch welding body panels is ideal and it is what I have. It is 3 ply sheetmetal where I need to patch the big rust hole, so it should be ok. The seams I need to fill are also extra stout. MIG definitely has its place though.

  11. #51
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    honestly for small holes like that you could likely lead them shut instead of torch welding. Bit less heat and no grinding if you do it right.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #52

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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    honestly for small holes like that you could likely lead them shut instead of torch welding. Bit less heat and no grinding if you do it right.
    Maybe, but the rusty trim hole is bigger than a quarter and I have never worked with lead. I should have minimal warping if I go slow and what I do get should come right out with a bit of hammer and dolly work... I hope.

  13. #53

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    I stopped on the slicktop conversion until my torch hoses come in. Once they do, I'll do some practice pieces first before doing it for real on the car.
    Stopped at a junkyard, but they would not let me go in the yard, so I just left. The main thing I want is a seat and it's silly to mess with it unless I can go and check it out first. I did find a self serve about 20 miles away that I will go check out in the next few weeks.
    Got the oil changed today... according to the old windshield sticker, I was only a few hundred miles over 3000. The oil wasn't honey colored, but it was no where near black either.
    Started on the transmission fluid and pan swap today. The fluid is definitely not bright red, but it does not smell burnt at all. I also verified that the new pan bolts are correct. I will finish this up tomorrow.
    Not much I know, but I'll get there.

    I also got the maybe parts car towed yesterday... (dead electrical system) Not messing with it too much just yet, I did order the electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual.

  14. #54

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    Finishing up the tranny pan, filter, and fluid job.
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    Also... a little worried about this at the bottom of my old pan, but was happy to find this:
    " Ford uses it to plug the dipstick hole in the tranny before the dipstick gets installed. When the dipstick tube is installed, it falls on the bottom of the transmission pan. They all have one if the pan has never been off."
    Other than that the pan had no sludge or metal of any kind in the pan... poured out the fluid and the pan looked like new. Going back out to try and drain the torque converter next.
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  15. #55
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Your that trannys first.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  16. #56

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    Yep... it was overdue.

  17. #57

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    A little off topic here, but thinking ahead a few years, I'd like to put my Kaiser body on a panther chassis... have not measured anything yet, but it should work.
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  18. #58
    I post a lot...
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    Like that "eye brow" roofline
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
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  19. #59
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric62 View Post
    A little off topic here, but thinking ahead a few years, I'd like to put my Kaiser body on a panther chassis... have not measured anything yet, but it should work.
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    Have you checked out cold war motors on YouTube? He basically did a junk yard Kaiser restore. Really cool cars.

  20. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by slack View Post
    Have you checked out cold war motors on YouTube? He basically did a junk yard Kaiser restore. Really cool cars.
    I did see that... I believe it was the earlier kaiser, but I still enjoyed it although there vids move a little slow... but then again so do I.

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