PotM GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters Forum Index PotM
GMN Chat Room GMN's STORE!! GMN's Gallery Please!!
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 70

Thread: Eric's 1989 Yellow Grand Marquis

  1. #21
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Bedford, VA
    Posts
    4,841

    Default

    Tripminder can come from an 83-89 car, but the car side is 1989 specific. I love love love mine. You can wire in an 83-88 without much trouble though. It just won’t be in the factory connector. Extracting a whole uncut tripminder harness from a parts car is a PITA anyway from my experience.
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, former lawn ornament
    Other: 95 Ranger, 74 F250, 68 Mustang, 94 Mustang
    Sold: 1982 LTD and 1987 Crown Vic

    GMN Box Panther History
    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
    Box Panther Production Numbers

  2. #22
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Shelby Township, MI
    Posts
    2,681

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    Tripminder can come from an 83-89 car, but the car side is 1989 specific. I love love love mine. You can wire in an 83-88 without much trouble though. It just won’t be in the factory connector. Extracting a whole uncut tripminder harness from a parts car is a PITA anyway from my experience.
    Right, same physical part just different wiring. Thanks for clearing that up. In other words if he finds one from the JY from a 83-88 car he wants to get as much of the harness and connector as possible.
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - I'll fix it eventually
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic


  3. #23

    Default

    I have done absolutely nothing to the car so far, except drive it and I like it! My original plan was to send the title to the MI SOS being that I am in FL, but I decided against that as I don't trust the mail and have little faith in Gov agencies, so I waited until I went back for the holidays. I Got plates and insurance and have been driving it since I got back about 2 weeks ago. I have a few other things that need to be done first and nothing is pressing as far as the car goes, but I will start addressing small issues soon.
    Eric

  4. #24

    Default

    My goals for this car are reliability-simplicity-longevity and gas mileage. I am planning a cross country road trip in April, so I have a lot to do (for me anyway).
    It is time to start a to do list:
    1. Oil change... Picked up amsoil synthetic with zinc added. Some say synthetic will cause leaks in an older engine that had only been serviced with conventional... Does anyone have any real world experience with this?

    2. Transmission service... Again, a lot of don't do this and don't change the tranny fluid if so many miles or it will go bad. A transmission shop told me that they don't use the machines that suck out all of the fluid from the system because a small passage will get clogged up. I don't know if this is true or they just don't want to invest in the equipment, lol. I was thinking that I might remove the pan, install a shift kit and replace the pan with an aluminum finned one with a drain plug, then every so often drain the pan and refill with fresh fluid. This way, all of the tranny fluid is being replaced slowly. I also plan on adding a cooler for longevity. Although prob not necessary, I like gauges and would like to install a trans temp gauge.
    I also know, (from lurking here) I need to check out a TV bushing? I will do more research on that topic soon.

    3. I am getting quite a bit of water in the trunk... I was told that the source of the leak is most likely the shelf above the tail lights... is this a common problem area?

    4. Brakes... The brakes work well, but are a little touchy and it feels like I have a warped rotor. My plan is to flush out the brake system and add all new fluid. I'll then check out all of the components and replace. The parts car I just bought has all new brakes, so I'll probably swap parts if it makes sense.

    5. Replace gear oil in the rearend.

    6. Tune up... at the very least check plugs cap and rotor, etc.

    7. Fix the drivers door. Does not lock and the lock switch has fallen inside the door... so has the courtesy light. The window works, but is a little herky jerky so I will try and address that as well.

    8. Add gauges... At the very least oil pressure and temp... would also like volts and trans temp.

    9. I'm not picky about stereos, but something decent would be nice. At the very least get the stock system working. Right now it is staticky and speakers take turns working... volume goes up and down on its own etc.

    10. Would like to find a tripminder as I would like to start monitoring Mpgs.

    If by some miracle, I can get this accomplished by April, I will be quite happy.

    11. Locate a nicer more comfortable seat at the junkyard. I'm thinking out of a lincoln? I read here that the aero and whale seats won't simply just bolt in, but I can do some fab work to make something work if need be.

  5. #25
    Member BigMerc96's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    I can see Detroit from here
    Posts
    442

    Default

    I'm no box expert, but here we go:

    1.) The synthetic will cause leaks is somewhat true. If its an old neglected engine that's being held together by sludge, then sure, synthetic may cause new leaks. Chances are the 5.0leaker in your car has a few anyway. Double and triple check the PCV valve and the screen/filter that is under it to make sure its functional and not clogged. Its often neglected on a 5.0 because its a bit of a pain to get at being behind the upper intake, but if its plugged it can and will cause leaks or at least make them worse since the crankcase can't vent properly.

    2) Transmission fluid. That is a bit of an old wives tale as well, but it also has a grain of truth to it. If a transmission fails after having the fluid changed then it was already damaged and would have failed anyway. If the fluid in yours is still somewhat red and doesn't smell burned then changing it won't hurt anything, it will however extend the life of the transmission. Drain the pan, and if you have a torque converter drain plug, drain that too. I know AODEs in the Aeros had a torque converter drain, don't know for sure if a AOD does or not but if I was to guess I'd say there is. Between the pan and torque converter you'll get 75% of the fluid out and that's sufficient.

    2B) TV grommet. That is where the TV cable hooks up to the throttle body. The original ones were nylon and prone to degrading with age and can cause the cable to pop off. If the cable goes slack the line pressures in the transmission go all funky and it can burn up 3rd and 4th gear in a hurry. Ford and others made a brass bushing and retaining clip to replace the nylon one, I'm sure if you search you'll find the part number, I don't have it in front of me right now. Pretty sure there is a stickied thread in the box tech section about it.

    2C) Probably should consider flushing the power steering fluid. Ford power steering calls for automatic transmission fluid, so you can use whatever is leftover from the trans service.

    3) That is a common enough spot to leak. Another would be rust under the rear window, hidden by the vinyl top.

    4) Box brakes always seem a bit overboosted and touchy. At least to me. I've driven several of them in varying condition. Look up the big brake upgrade if you so desire. Using a combination of Aero and Whale parts you can fit '98-02 front brakes onto a box. It does require 16" wheels, '98-'02 brakes are massive and don't fit in a 15" wheel. Alternative upgrade would be '95-'97 brakes, still bigger than what's on a box but will fit in a 15" wheel. Its all a bolt-on affair, the mounting points and lower control arms are the same, IIRC for a box you'd use '92-'94 upper control arms along with '95-'02 spindles and whichever hubs go with the brakes you choose ('95-'97 hubs are narrower than '98-'02 hubs but fit the spindles just the same however the calipers won't center over the rotor if you use the "wrong" ones). I forget what brake hoses would go on a box for the big brakes. There's plenty of info about it around here.

    5) Gear oil in the rear end is also often overlooked. There is no risk in changing it and its good practice, so go for it. Box body 8.8 should call for 80w90 in regular service, no harm in using that, or even going thicker with it, rear differentials aren't picky. Should take a bit over 2qts. I perpetually have 1/2 a quart of gear oil around because they only take 1/4-1/2 of the 3rd bottle. Personally I run 75w90 synthetic in mine.

    6) Tune up is straightforward enough. I would definitely replace the cap/rotor if they are of unknown age.

    7) Drivers door is probably suffering from a seized up power lock actuator, pretty common on boxes. The seal around the glass isn't perfect and so water gets into the door and onto the lock actuator causing it to seize. The lock won't even turn with the key when the actuator freezes. Temporary fix would be to disconnect the linkage between the latch and lock actuator, then you can at least lock it manually with the key. Did that on my buddy's '91 wagon, both front doors and the tailgate had seized lock actuators so they got disconnected.


    9) Stereos are all personal preference. As much as I like the looks of the stock radios, they can't even compare in sound quality to an aftermarket one unless you go thru the trouble of hunting down a functional "premium sound" setup.

    11) I forget when the changeover happened, IIRC it was '90 for the seats. The floorpan changed slightly so later seats aren't a direct swap into an older car. However, if you use the seat tracks from the current seats pretty much any '90+ seat will fit.

    Might also look up the 3G alternator upgrade. The stock alternators can be problematic, along with being kinda underpowered. 3G swap is pretty straightforward. Basically you use the alternator from a '90s Taurus, they came in 2 flavors, 90 and 130a, both considerably better than the 60a or whatever the stock 2G puts out. Depending on what the donor vehicle is, its pretty much a direct swap. Change out the regulator connector and run a properly sized charge cable and..that's it.
    -Steve

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, all natural weight reduction as the parts fall off..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

  6. #26
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Shelby Township, MI
    Posts
    2,681

    Default

    All looks like good advice, Steve. Also, yes it was '90 that the seats changed.
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - I'll fix it eventually
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic


  7. #27

    Default

    Thanks BigMerc96 for the detailed response... A lot of good info!

    Also, thanks for reminding me:

    12. Fix power steering leak. I don't see an obvious leak, but I have to add fluid every few days.

    13. I am going to add relays to my headlights as well. These new car headlights blind me silly, making my headlights useless until my eyes recover. I just leave my brights on all the time nowadays.

  8. #28

    Default

    Thanks... I am planning on looking at newer towncar seats 1st as I imagine they are the best quality. I know they won't bolt in, but I should be able to make them work somehow.

  9. #29
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    37,009

    Default

    Type F trans fluid is quieter in the PS system than the Dexron/Mercon or Mercon V the transmission wants. Both work though.

    If you can find someone with a headlight aimer, that will go a long way towards helping the light output as well. Between relays and a proper aim, I see very well with my cars even with boring old sealed beam halogen lamps.

    The later seats can be adapted, but you have to drill a couple of holes in the seat frame. Use the original seat tracks though, the floor changed in 90 or 91.


    The stereo you might start with making sure everything is plugged in and hasn't been screwed with. The stock stuff is mediocre at best, even with the premium sound. The later cars had better stuff, but the 80s were not exactly a time of high fidelity unless you owned a Lincoln and spent a stack of money on the JBL system upgrade. I believe that was somewhere around a grand. Not an option on the Ford and Mercury models. The single best thing you can say about the stock radios is they look proper in the dashboard.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #30
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Evans, GA
    Posts
    1,233

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Eric62 View Post
    Thanks... I am planning on looking at newer towncar seats 1st as I imagine they are the best quality. I know they won't bolt in, but I should be able to make them work somehow.
    I've got '92 Executive trim seats in my '87. IIRC, TecNickal swapped the bases between the two so the floor didn't get modified. All the controls work and behave like factory.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  11. #31
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Shelby Township, MI
    Posts
    2,681

    Default

    Hmm... I'm fairly certain some of the mounting to the floor did change in '90. When I first got my first '91 I was going to swap the power passenger seat from my '89 into the '91. The changes stopped me from swapping, and I decided to just get a '90-'91 seat track from the JY. Now, the changes may be pretty easy to overcome for someone with a little more fabrication skill/patience than I have.

    I'd be curious to know what Nick did to mount that '92 seat track in the '87. It might be easier to put newer tracks in an older car. The newer ones have two studs for the front mounts, iirc (or was it the rear, or all 4? memory is quite fuzzy on this). While the older ones had 4 bolts on the 4 mounts (right?). Also the newer cars have middle seatbelt/buckles that bolt to the inner rear mount of the track while the older cars have separate mounts on the trans/driveshaft tunnel for those middle belt/buckles.
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - I'll fix it eventually
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic


  12. #32
    I post a lot...
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    North Las Vegas Nevada
    Posts
    2,181

    Default

    As for the sterio get new head unit new speakers and amplifier that will solve your problems.

  13. #33
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Evans, GA
    Posts
    1,233

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by VicCrownVic View Post
    I'd be curious to know what Nick did to mount that '92 seat track in the '87. It might be easier to put newer tracks in an older car. The newer ones have two studs for the front mounts, iirc (or was it the rear, or all 4? memory is quite fuzzy on this). While the older ones had 4 bolts on the 4 mounts (right?). Also the newer cars have middle seatbelt/buckles that bolt to the inner rear mount of the track while the older cars have separate mounts on the trans/driveshaft tunnel for those middle belt/buckles.
    I think he used the '87 seat track and base and put the '92 seats on top of that. I can get photos of the seats if need be. The car originally had the standard leather type seats since in GMQ of the era, just recovered in vinyl.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  14. #34
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Shelby Township, MI
    Posts
    2,681

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
    I think he used the '87 seat track and base and put the '92 seats on top of that. I can get photos of the seats if need be. The car originally had the standard leather type seats since in GMQ of the era, just recovered in vinyl.
    I completely misunderstood/misread your previous post, lol. I'm a bit slow sometimes.
    If I'm understanding now, he did the swap in a way that would allow him to not have to modify the floor to accept later seat track?
    Last edited by VicCrownVic; 01-31-2019 at 01:33 AM.
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - I'll fix it eventually
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic


  15. #35
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    5,208

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Eric62 View Post
    My goals for this car are reliability-simplicity-longevity and gas mileage. I am planning a cross country road trip in April, so I have a lot to do (for me anyway).
    It is time to start a to do list:
    1. Oil change... Picked up amsoil synthetic with zinc added. Some say synthetic will cause leaks in an older engine that had only been serviced with conventional... Does anyone have any real world experience with this?
    I'm not a proponent of [Sc]Amsoil. It comes off to me as some dark elitist cult in which only zealots use, promote or sell the stuff. I've lost track of all the YouTube videos where someone is trying to push that stuff off on others through affiliate links. Don't get me wrong, it's great oil, as I've seen real world test data on the stuff (from their own hands!) but Valvoline SynPower edged ahead in several tests which seemed critical to me and was nipping the heels of [Sc]Amsoil in every other test. Best part of the Valvoline business is you can practically find it everywhere and thus don't need to order in advance or pay extra for it like you would with the other stuff. I like to add Motorkote to my oil too. I've watched some videos on YouTube, Project Farm's specifically, where he sacrificed two lawn mower engines to determine if that stuff was worth the money. They were both run without oil, the one with Motorkote went for about an hour before it lunched itself whereas the other one ker-pow'd after about 10 minutes IIRC. Check it out.

    As for leaks, I've been running Synthetic (Valvoline SynPower specifically) in everything I own for years, probably approaching 6 or 8 now. I own old stuff on purpose; 1989 K1500 (350 V8,5w-40), 1989 Firebird (305 V8,5w-40), 1988 Town Car (302 V8,5w-40), 1992 F150 (Spouse's, 300 I6,5w-40) and I've never noticed additional leaks sprout up or existing ones get worse. I'd imagine existing ones could get worse as it's reported Synthetics have better detergents. However if I suspect an engine of mine is dirty, I run Marvel Mystery oil in it or SeaFoam in the crankcase. Project Farm has a good video with that using a 2.9 equipped Ranger-turd as test mule.
    People also say that switching to synthetic from conventional will also lead to increased oil consumption. Not true. The 350 in my K1500 and every 300 I6 Ford I've ever known (except the one which had it's headgasket replaced, stay away from anything that has had that service if you weren't there to determine how long it was run like that or how hot it got) has never burned oil, and switching to synthetic had zero impact on that so forget about that wive's tale.
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric62 View Post
    2. Transmission service... Again, a lot of don't do this and don't change the tranny fluid if so many miles or it will go bad. A transmission shop told me that they don't use the machines that suck out all of the fluid from the system because a small passage will get clogged up. I don't know if this is true or they just don't want to invest in the equipment, lol...
    I've got two automatic transmission vehicles, the Lincoln and the Firebird. Sad face about the Firebird. Anyway, I've had the pan dropped on both to have the filters changed and fluid topped off at the time of their respective service. Firebird has maybe 5 years on it (and maybe 3k miles) since that happened, Town Car has at least 4 years and 20k miles on it since it's service. Neither one has had an issue, the Firebird's torque convertor actually regained lock-up once I had the service done. So if anything, all effects were positive. Fluid in Lincoln was brighter red and better smelling than what was in the Pontiac.
    Ashley, however, had a 1991 Mark VII. Fluid was brackish with a hint of burnt smell but nothing absurd. Trans usually shifted in to OD like a virginal teenage boy attempting to "find the hole" for the first time.. Welp, we decided to experiment by having the pan dropped, filter changed and then fluid flushed. Trans seemed to shift better 1-3 and OD shifting was slightly improved. However, about 4-6 months later OD decided to leave the party and never came back. I suspect the band broke as it would shift into OD still and would attempt to move, but it mostly slipped as if it were in neutral. So, was it the flush which caused it? Or was the thing already doomed? I'm not exactly sure. I'd try a flush one more time on something else and if the same thing happens, then I'll never flush anything again. That has been my actual experience with stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric62 View Post
    9. I'm not picky about stereos, but something decent would be nice. At the very least get the stock system working. Right now it is staticky and speakers take turns working... volume goes up and down on its own etc.
    .
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Type F trans fluid is quieter in the PS system than the Dexron/Mercon or Mercon V the transmission wants. Both work though.

    If you can find someone with a headlight aimer, that will go a long way towards helping the light output as well. Between relays and a proper aim, I see very well with my cars even with boring old sealed beam halogen lamps.


    The stereo you might start with making sure everything is plugged in and hasn't been screwed with. The stock stuff is mediocre at best, even with the premium sound. The later cars had better stuff, but the 80s were not exactly a time of high fidelity unless you owned a Lincoln and spent a stack of money on the JBL system upgrade. I believe that was somewhere around a grand. Not an option on the Ford and Mercury models. The single best thing you can say about the stock radios is they look proper in the dashboard.
    What gadget said about the JBL system. I loved the results I got by running the JBL box-specific amp with an aftermarket headunit, Sony. However, the volume didn't run as high and the amp's eq curve became obvious and luckily I could counterbalance that curve by using the one within the Sony headunit. I went with Sony because they were the ones who supplied the factory CD player in the Town Cars. That was the $1,000 option. I believe JBL on it's own was $600ish, and that CD player added another $400. For the '80s? Yikes. Definitely worth it though. Of all the 80's stereos I've listened to, those are great. You definitely want to pilfer the JBL 6x9's from a Town Car, door speakers and dash ones if you can find them. If not, JBL's from a mid to late '90's Continental will work great too, as the rears are identical yet without the coaxial job so you can use them as pseudo subwoofers. You'd have to spend hundreds of dollars to get things that only sound marginally better IMO. I can get them for $5/speaker at the local yards so they're definitely a steal for that price.

    I've put three, yes three power steering pumps on my spouse's F150. I tried Mercon V after watching Fordtech Makuloco's video about it and I agree with gadget, Type F works best and is quieter. Try and get Valvoline. 1st go around we used parts store brand stuff, a bit noisier and more viscous compared to Valvoline.

    I also echo gadget's opinion of the headlight aimer or the DIY method I used which was pull the car up to a wall and shine the headlights at it while aiming them. Don't go about blinding others with your brights, that's just not good form. I also run the Sylvania extra visions, they are very bright and give me just as much distance down the road as modern vehicles without the obnoxious "presence". Aiming is key.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  16. #36

    Default

    Most of the tranny fluid I see nowadays is universal... basically says it works for everything... I can't remember when I last saw Type F, but I will research further, although I'm not too concerned about how quiet it is.
    Even with headlights aimed correctly, it does not seem to matter when you are on a hilly road, or trucks in particular with their headlights higher than the roofline of a car.
    That's what I was hoping as far as seats go.
    My stereo is just old... It gets all wacky when I wiggle the knobs.
    Thanks for all of your help and wisdom!

  17. #37

    Default

    I think amsoil is starting to go more mainstream now... I bought mine at a Rural King store, which is a bigger version of Tractor Supply. I will for sure look into the valvoline for next time though and see what is more cost effective. I'm not too worried about engine leaks as records show the PO kept the oil changed and the car supposedly has 65k on it which I mostly believe.

    Transmission on the other hand has probably never been serviced. Transmission fluid was definitely more brown than red. I will probably pay to have the tranny serviced and shift kit put in as I just have no interest in doing that job and I don't want to end up with a non moving car, lol. There is a 1 man shop down the road... the owner does all the work himself. Like many here, I have given up on anybody else working on my vehicles... especially after my drive home a few weeks ago (don't ask)

    Like I said, I'm not picky about a stereo and have no desire to vibrate the innards of my neighbors as I drive past, so a stock JBL system with a few speakers is fine with me. I have never messed with upgrading a stereo, so stereo talk is all foreign to me. I plan on visiting a few close by yards next week to get an idea of what is out there. As far as a head unit... I believe I have seen them mounted in the glovebox before in HotRods and cars that they wanted to maintain the stock appearance. I don't know how they work, but I imagine they have some kind of remote buttons to scan radio stations? I'm thinking about this so I could use the radio dash real estate to mount gauges? Does this sound feasible at all?

    Are the power steering pumps plastic by chance... I did not look close, but it kind of seemed that way. Is there any way to swap in an old metal saginaw version? I'm guessing not easily if you have replaced one 3 times. Yes, I hate plastic, lol... one of the many reason I loathe new cars.

    Thanks again for taking the time to respond in detail. I'll be ordering parts in the next few days and I'll get started next week.

    Eric

  18. #38

    Default

    Just as I thought... Did a quick goggle and this popped up right away... it looks like there are plenty of others as well.

    https://www.amazon.com/Remote-Contro.../dp/B00T8AK7AG

    A little pricey, but this should give me enough room for 3 gauges which is more important to me than a stereo.

  19. #39
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    37,009

    Default

    Sometimes Type F is marked as Type A or AF. I have no idea why, but it says something about being for older Ford vehicles. My local Napa has it on the shelf.

    The Ford C2 pump does use a plastic reservoir on a metal pump body. Some trucks did have Sag pumps and I believe the brackets for that are different. The cars never had anything but the pump you've got. The C2 actually works fine for what it needs to do. I've replaced only one from a legit failure. The front pump seal on my 86 Towncar gave up around the 200k point. I think the one on the Continental is original at 186k. The trucks work the pump a little harder than the cars do, so that might be part of the issue there. Cars with the tow package got a PS cooler, and those do seem to hold up better than cars without the cooler so fluid temp probably has something to do with how well the pumps survive. My Conti doesn't have a cooler, but it has hydroboost brakes and a rack so its got a lot more line than the Panther system has. It ends up working something like a cooler. My Towncar does have the cooler, its just a loop of 5/16 steel tube bent in a U that is as long as the radiator is wide.

    Don't be too surprised it leaks if the gaskets are original. Not much to do with the synth vs not, the original cork gaskets just don't last 30 years. Valve cover and lower intake gasket leakage is a common thing on every V8 really. Aftermarket gaskets that are rubber instead of cork can be had and that fixes the problem very nicely. Also if the PCV system isn't working well, it will be more inclined to leak. There is a screen underneath the valve that often gets clogged up. The rubber grommet also tends to turn rock hard and stop sealing.
    Last edited by gadget73; 01-31-2019 at 06:20 PM.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  20. #40
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    5,208

    Default

    Yep, according to HisRoyalGhostliness, the only Ford stuff which got the Saginaw pumps were E series vans. The CII pump is fine, but after the fiasco I had with replacing my spouse's, I've learned to be careful about what I tell the parts store. I got two units from Rock Auto for an "F150" and both of those made noise, that classic "GAAAAHHHHH" dying Tom Petty/Cat/irritable bowel syndrome noise.. Well another lesson learned there is don't sit on your parts! By the time we got that second "replacement" pump on her truck it was after the 30 or 60 day warranty window. So I went to the junkyard and scoured for box units but settled on liberating Tauri/Sable's of their pumps as gadget helped me verify the mechanical properties were essentially the same. People don't tend to abuse cars like they do trucks and that theory paid off as the pump I slapped on is quiet & the truck steers easier than it used to. Fluid flush probably helped that out.

    You will be very happy with stock JBL, even the stock deck. Hell, I spent a bunch of money on upgrading my Town Car's stereo and when it works, it's great. But mostly I find myself chasing my tail with stupid problems like dead amplifiers and shitty connections courtesy of the installers. Plus I no longer have the factory look. I do have the factory deck though, and I could even hook that POS up to my amplifier and such. Hmm...

    As for your headlights, no offense or anything but I wasn't there to aim them for you so I can't exactly trust your job.. But I will say the factory headlights & aim job are garbage. At one point my spouse and I both had Town Cars, her's an '89, mine an '88. They had the same aim job so it must've been factory: Driver's side headlight was aimed ultra low and pointed off the middle of the car whereas the passenger side was aimed a few degrees higher and roughly straight ahead. Looked like two dark piss streaks in the dead of night. I was lucky enough to find "Made in USA" Sylvania Ultravision replacements (Ones I had to buy for my K1500 are now China, sad face.) dropped them in, aimed them and wow, what a difference. I could tell even with the previous aim job I gave the factory headlights. I've went on several multi day road trips and usually never pop my brights on, they're just that good to me.

    As for your trans, leave it alone. Don't put a shift kit in it, sounds like it's already wounded. At best, have the filter replaced and replace the lost fluid or flush the thing and replace the filter & see what happens after you verified the TV cable is set up right and you've got the brass bushing in place. Here's a nice video on how to adjust the TV cable:
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
GMN Approved Links!


www.rockauto.com www.adtr.net