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Thread: Fuel Injector leak?

  1. #1
    Poncho
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    Default Fuel Injector leak?

    I'm having a fuel injector leak towards the front of the motor in my '87 Grand Marquis. How hard is it to replace the fuel injector/o ring? Is it just the 4 bolts that keeps the upper intake mounted? I hope this isn't a hard swap, because I'm kind of in a time crunch and I'd rather not have the car towed to an auto shop to be charged whatever they feel the job is worth. Thanks for the helps
    @Ryan.Madison68

  2. #2
    I post a lot...
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    Also the fuel rail must be moved so all O rings should be changed. There are many vacuum lines connected to the intake. If they are old they may very easily crack so you need to be prepared for that. Also the ones that are hard to get to should be changed while you have access. There are also electrical connections and some sort of transmission, throttle connections. It has bee some time since I have done this so hopefully others will chime in. I can't remember if you can unbolt it and then just move it aside.

    Take photos so you know how it all goes back together.
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  3. #3
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    I haven't changed injectors, but have done intake gaskets (lower and upper) a few times.

    There are 6 bolts holding the upper intake on. 2 short ones in the front, 2 short ones in the rear by the firewall, and 2 very long one under the 5.0 plate on top of the upper intake. Can it be done with the upper unbolted and moved just enough to get at the injectors? I don't know, but you still run the risk of breaking old, brittle vac lines; it doesn't take much especially with colder temps.

    You also have the 2 cooler lines for the EGR spacer if it's still stock. A few feet of 1/4 inch fuel hose works for those.
    Vic

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  4. #4
    Member EaOutlaw1969's Avatar
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    Time crunch and a fuel leak is a bad mix, fix it when you have time to do it right hit up your friends for a ride if needed until you can take your time to replace what is needed.
    Like the others have mentioned you will come across the unexpected forced maintenance when doing this job.
    Personally I would not tackle this job on a older car without new injectors and pigtails connectors for the injectors plus the vac lines and intake gaskets etc.
    2000 MGM LS Palm Beach Edition a work in progress

  5. #5
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    6 bolts for the upper intake, 4 small bolts hold the rail on. I'd disconnect the lines so you can pull the rail completely. Its absolutely not a big deal as long as you are careful. Lube the O-rings before re-installing them or they will tear. Almost anything works, vaseline, wd-40, motor oil, etc. Don't need much. I'd also clean the holes in the lower intake before re-assembly. Just take a rag on a suitable pokey thing to wipe the dirt and crap out of the bore to make sure the O ring doesn't get damaged on assembly. Replace all of them if you're doing it, once you disturb those things after 30 years its liable to cause new leaks.

    Pretty sure you can't get the rail to lift enough to get the injectors out on that side unless you have a spacer. I know I have done a #5 on my own car without removing the upper, but I have a spacer and it still just barely cleared.

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  6. #6
    Poncho
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    Thanks guys for the tips. So here's an update on what's going on. Yesterday when I found the leak the car would turn over but would not continue to run as gas leaked out from the injectors on the driver side. I tried again today to start the car and it ran fine. I didn't see any leaks coming from the injectors. Any ideas on what may be the culprit?
    @Ryan.Madison68

  7. #7
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    What were the temperatures like yesterday and today where you are? If it was warmer today and colder yesterday, perhaps the issue could be shrinkage of the o-rings?
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - I'll fix it eventually
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
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  8. #8
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    stuff like that doesn't fix itself. The last time I had a damaged O-ring that visibly leaked fuel, I caught the car on fire. Take that for whatever it may be worth to you.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  9. #9
    I post a lot... knucklehead0202's Avatar
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    Sounds like 2 different problems. Haven't dicked around with it on these cars, but i did change injector o-rings on my mustang many years ago without removing the upper.

  10. #10
    Poncho
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    Thanks, guys for the suggestion. I finally got around to replacing the o rings. It didn't come without a few challenges and subsequently questions. First, can someone tell me where this vacuum hose( in the picture) is supposed to connect to? One of my challenges I faced was the plastic tv cable grommet snapped on me. I, now begrudingly, took the beware of the plastic grommet threads for granted. The day(s) it snapped on me. I had to get it home (about a 30 mile drive). Did I do any damage to the transmission during that time? Also I went looking at my local ford dealer for the Lincoln brass replacement. I asked the parts department for the part # listed in the sticky threads and the guy quoted me the part would cost a $100 or so dollars. I didn't think that was correct. Thanks everyone for the help in getting my Panther back on the road.
    @Ryan.Madison68

  11. #11
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    That red line should feed the solenoids for smog and EGR.

    Do not attempt to continue to driving with a broken/missing TV grommet unless you want a rebuild in order. As many have reported, it doesn’t take much to burn up the AOD. The brass ones are easily attainable on eBay with a few day lead time, or you can temporarily get by with a nylon one from a parts store.

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  12. #12
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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-AOD-tr...4AAMXQvJVRW5l4

    If you had all your gears when you arrived, then you are probably okay. But don’t drive it without it... you’ll be thinking $100 bushing was totally worth it. If you HAVE to drive it, use some wire to tie it in position. Or unhook it at the trans side and it will default to max pressure (and 4600rpm shifts).

    X2 on the EGR vacuum line or possibly the rear of the intake near the fuel pressure regulator. There should be a diagram on your fan shroud that’s color coded with the locations.
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  13. #13
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    You probably put an additional 30k miles of wear on your trans in those 30 miles you drove without the bushing connected, especially if it went into OD at all. Without that TV cable connected, the trans is essentially getting 0 lubrication where it needs it most.
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