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'79-'97 rear upper and lower control arm bolts

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    '79-'97 rear upper and lower control arm bolts

    In the event I have to cut them out when I install my ES poly bushings, I'm trying to get a hold of the part numbers and/or specs of the bolts used in the rear upper and lower control arms on '79-'97 panthers. I haven't had any luck on the part numbers. Anyone know the numbers or the specs for these bolts?
    —John

    1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

    #2
    Why do you need to cut them for. If u do i have extra bolt for the rear upper only when I pulled the rearend if u want them.

    Comment


      #3
      Just in case.
      —John

      1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
      1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
      1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
      1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

      Comment


        #4
        Hopefully, being in Texas, the bolts will come loose with a little PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil. Use it before you start turning--if the bolts are seized to the inner threads and you rip up the rubber, no amount of oil will free them.
        If they are seized together and start spinning (which is how it usually goes in the rustier climes) then hopefully you can cut them without tearing up the mounting area too much.

        I'm not sure about Panthers, as I haven't done mine yet (probably going to be this summer) but I've done a bunch on Fox and SN95 Mustangs, and here's my quick thoughts:

        1. Use a grade 8 (or metric 10.9) fastener. If I can't get them at the dealer, I get them at Fastenal. I don't know the size of the Panther ones so I don't want to speculate, but if you have new metal sleeves for the bushings get a bolt that is 1" longer than the bushing and fits it snugly; of course you'll need to know the thread and whether it's english or metric.

        2. Don't go cheap. Grade 5 (or 8.8 metric) or lower are beneath the rating specified by Ford for suspension applications, and I don't want to wreck my car because I saved $8 on a couple bolts. If I put in a grade 5 bolt, you better believe I'm driving that thing like a little old lady until the proper bolt arrives.

        3. On the Fox/SN95, some years have different size bolts at one end of the upper arm than the other. I am not sure about the Panthers, but don't take 1 bolt to Fastenal, buy 4, and think you're all set (I had to do this more than once to learn this lesson).

        4. On the Fox/SN95, the rear (especially the upper) arms have a sort of weird twisting motion when going over bumps. Heim jointed arms and other tricks are used in preference to the poly bushings. In most of my street driven Mustangs, I found what worked reasonably well (FOR ME, your preference may vary, and this all may be irrelevant on Panthers) was to put the poly bushings in the lower arm at both ends, and stock-type rubber bushings on the upper arms. Again: this may not be relevant to the Panthers.

        Anyone who has actually spent time under the Panthers have any input? I'll be doing this myself soon, so I'd like to know how similar/different this really is.

        Comment


          #5
          Its a nearly identical rear suspension on the panther vs Fox/SN95. Slightly longer arms is about the only change, and the springs sit on the axle instead of the lower arm. Same concerns with binding apply, though usually given how these cars are driven its not quite as much a concern. Poly in all 4 spots still isn't the best idea. I'd go rubber in at least one upper arm spot. Mine are in the diff ears. The arms got poly because trying to press those things out is a PITA.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
            Its a nearly identical rear suspension on the panther vs Fox/SN95. Slightly longer arms is about the only change, and the springs sit on the axle instead of the lower arm. Same concerns with binding apply, though usually given how these cars are driven its not quite as much a concern. Poly in all 4 spots still isn't the best idea. I'd go rubber in at least one upper arm spot. Mine are in the diff ears. The arms got poly because trying to press those things out is a PITA.
            What kind of effects would you see with poly bushings replacing all rubber ones?
            —John

            1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
            1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
            1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
            1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

            Comment


              #7
              Never tried it, but I expect binding could be an issue. Also, generally more NVH. I specifically didn't do all poly based on input from Mustang guys since its pretty much identical back there. Possibly the longer arms makes it less of an issue? Dunno.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Giraffe View Post
                What kind of effects would you see with poly bushings replacing all rubber ones?
                The 4-link axle has the 2 lower arms (almost) parallel to the car's travel motion. The uppers are at an angle.
                This is arranged so the axle can move straight up and down, and also "twist" on uneven terrain or when the car is cornering.

                Rubber bushings allow all this motion and absorb the forces of cornering (car leans, so arms get "twisted" in relation to axle/body of car).
                Urethane bushings don't "smoosh" and that force has to be transferred as motion of the car or axle ("binding up").

                In hard bumps or corners where there's a lot of body roll or the axle is moving up and down on one side more than the other, this can result in the feeling that the axle is being "pushed" to one side or the other. Leaving rubber bushings in the upper arms (some people leave both pairs; others do just the fronts or rears) gives a firmer ride than stock rubber bushings, but also leaves enough rubber "smoosh" to keep the back end from jerking around on rough roads. For a road driven car I usually leave both uppers rubber, but again, it's a personal preference thing.

                On a performance oriented car, with very stiff springs, heavy sway bar, and possibly a Watts or Panhard setup, the axle moves much less in relation to the body and poly bushings make more sense in all the spots. I don't mind that as much as my passengers do so on those cars I've used all urethane bushings (or a completely different suspension).

                Comment


                  #9
                  Sounds pretty legit. I'll probably just get some good stock replacement bushings for the upper arms, then.
                  —John

                  1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
                  1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
                  1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
                  1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

                  Comment

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