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Thread: The Odissey continues: Fuel pump for a 1987 Colony Park?

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  1. #1

    Default The Odissey continues: Fuel pump for a 1987 Colony Park?

    Hello Guys!

    I posted a thread some time ago about the sudden shut off of my 1987 Mercury Colony Park, specially while the car was in movement...well, I leave the car with my mechanic and the problems on the engine were bigger and bigger, so I take the option of a complete engine adjustment. After 1 month of work and looking for spare parts (not so easy to found in Chile), the car was finished, but it still shut off!!!
    Many parts were replaced or repaired, including change of gaskets, IAC Valve, fuel pressure regulator, water pump, etc...

    Now, the mechanic says that the fuel pump, which has 14 months of use, has no pressure to work properly. The fuel pump was an "Autobest" found at ebay. This is my last resource to solve this problem, so, if eventually the current fuel pump only has 1 year of life, I want to buy a good one now.
    I found the fuel pump with the hanger:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-H...53.m1438.l2649

    Is "Sprectra Premium" a good maker for this part?, and has this hanger any relation with the fuel level reading?, which is broken on my car too...

    My other option is only the fuel pump and strainer, maybe a Bosch?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Fu...53.m1438.l2649

    What do you recommend?. Or of anyone can tell me which is the proper spare part to solve the problem of fuel level reading too...I appreciate your help!!

  2. #2
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I have been using the spectra premium one in my 90 for the last year. I haven’t driven the car much but it has worked fine so far. I bought it because it’s the only one that came with the hanger, which I needed due to a very bad fuel tank from sitting ten years. You shouldn’t need the hanger, so you can get just the pump. The Bosch one you listed is a good choice in my opinion.

    The fuel lever sender is separate. They are pretty simple things. Maybe just needs a new float or the contacts cleaned. If the circuit board is bad, then you can substitute one from a sedan up to 1989 or so.
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
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  3. #3
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I do not believe the fuel hanger for a sedan works on a wagon. I don't believe that part will fit your car correctly, but I do not own a wagon to say this with absolute certainty.

    For whatever it may be worth, I fitted a Walbro pump for a Mustang to my original hanger in my 86 Towncar. The Mustang pump is smaller diameter, so it has a hose clamp holding it to the bracket. Its been fine for nearly 10 years now.

    Sending unit can usually be cleaned. It has a plastic cover that opens, and inside is a board with a wiper contact hooked to the arm. Carefully clean the corrosion from the board and wiper. Be gentle with the plastic, it gets brittle. If the float is sunk, its a common float used on many Ford products.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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  4. #4

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    Thanks for your advice, guys.
    Today the fuel pump was changed, the problem still remain.
    The engine shut off when idling, when I stop on a cross or the run is just erratic.
    I change many parts, spent a lot of money and feel that I'm giving up with the car .
    Probably, if I live in. The States, the problem would be solve now. I don't know what to do...

  5. #5
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I reread your original thread on the problem. Seems you have a new Motorcraft IAC which should be okay.

    Have you checked for codes? Here’s how: http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page13.html

    I think it would be wise to set the base idle. With the engine warmed up, all accessories off, and the IAC unplugged, set the idle to 750rpm. That sets the base idle. Then plugin you IAC.

    Could be many things. Hoping the computer can point us in the correct direction.
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, former lawn ornament
    Other: 95 Ranger, 74 F250, 68 Mustang, 94 Mustang
    Sold: 1982 LTD and 1987 Crown Vic

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    previously known as T65neon5
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    has anyone checked the MAP sensor?
    I'm not completely oblivious to reality, I just choose to reject it when it doesn't line up with my opinions. (thanx Thain!)

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bad-Driver1 View Post
    has anyone checked the MAP sensor?
    MAP sensor is located on the firewall on the passengerīs side?

    If I remember correctly, the hose was replaced recently, but the sensor is the original from the car.

  8. #8
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    Like the others said, lots of things it could be aside from fuel pump. Could be an issue with ignition, especially TFI or uh, hall-effect sensor? WTF is that thing called?

  9. #9
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    the PIP, Profile Ignition Pickup.

    Does it produce any codes if you check it with the engine running?

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #10
    Domestic Tourist Lincolnmania's Avatar
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    either that or the map sensor vacuum hose is collapsed or has a hole in it.

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
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    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!


  11. #11

    Default

    Is hard to get a scanner for OBD1 Ford here in Chile, since these cars were not so common at the ī80s. American cars were more popular from the ī70s and before and after that, the japanese and european models rules the market until today.
    I order a scanner for Ford models at Amazon:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Anyway, I will try to follow the instructions to scan the computer without the scanner.
    For the record, here are the parts that has been replaced for new ones:
    -TFI
    -ignition coil
    -Voltage regulator box
    -Spark plug wires
    -Spark plugs
    -Fuel pump (with tank flush)
    -Fuel pump relay
    -Fuel filter
    -Almost all the engine gaskets
    -IAC Valve
    -Almost all the hoses of the engine.

    And maintenance to almost all other components of the car (water pump, radiator, steering pump, brakes, etc...)
    "Check engine" light never turn on, but it does when I turn the key for ignition (like almost every car), after that, it turn off.

  12. #12
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    You can use a test light to get codes

    http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page13.html

    just count the blinks.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #13
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    double check the hose to make sure nothing has damaged it and that it's still installed. Though the MAP sensors rarely go bad, they do go bad. But do check for codes as that may well let us know what is wrong.

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  14. #14

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    I will, thanks!. But I donīt trust on my capability (or my mechanic) to count the flashes So, I will wait the machine I ordered or find another scanner locally.

    Besides the MAP sensor, is there another sensor which could cause a similar Symptom? (the engine stop at movement or idling).
    If I can. I prefer replace all the sensors that could go bad....after all, most of those parts has more than 32 years!

  15. #15
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The digital display is a nicer way of doing it. I have one myself, but the ABS system in one of my cars won't use it and I don't want to spend the money on the special Ford tester. My solution is a jumper wire and counting the blinks.

    Maybe the ignition pickup. They get funny when they start to die. If you can get a complete distributor, that might be easier than just the pickup. The distributor has to be taken apart to get the pickup out.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #16

  17. #17

    Default

    For the record, I change the TFI for a Motorcraft 1 year ago. About 1 month ago, when the problem gets bigger, my mechanic says that the TFI went bad and put another module (not original). The problem was apparently solved, but the stall and shut off persist a couple days after the replacement. Could this being produced by the bad PIP?, I mean, the defect on the Motorcraft module.

  18. #18
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The PIP is down inside the distributor. Its not the TFI, but it drives the TFI. They can get funny with heat. No guarantee its your problem.

    and I believe that is the correct pickup.

    Is the timing properly set? If its not done right, the engine might stall. Vacuum leaks also tend to make it stall. It might also surge a lot. Temperature sensors that are bad might do it.

    http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page10.html

    If the EGR valve sticks open that would also make it want to stall

    bad MAP sensors make them run pretty terrible too

    Can you get a video of how the engine runs? That might help

    I really just hate to tell people to throw parts at problems.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  19. #19

    Default

    Ok guys, I got the code reader today, and the results were:

    in KOEO:
    23:Throttle position sensor signal out of range?
    34:EGR Problems?

    in CM:
    18: Loss of tachometer input (the car doesnīt have tachometer on dashboard), IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded. it doesnīt sound good...
    34: same EGR Problems?

    in KOER:
    21:Coolant temperature sensor. (where is located?) I think Iīm confusing it with the dashboard temperature sensor, which my Colony Park has no light.
    23: Throttle position?
    41: HEGO (HO2S) sensor voltage low. Is this referred to the oxigen sensor?
    91:HEGO Sensor voltage low
    and 34, again...

    Iīm a bit lost with all this info. If I understand, the EGR needs replacement, also, the engine coolant sensor and the oxigen sensor need a replacement too...
    But which one of all those problems could be the main problem of engine shut off?.
    I remember about the code 18 is a terrible code in another thread, is it?, the car is death?
    I already bought a new EGR, MAP sensor (just in case), new PIP and distributor cap and rotor...
    Hope your wisdom could help me!!
    Last edited by JesusGM; 01-09-2019 at 04:38 PM.

  20. #20
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    KOEO
    23 - bad throttle position sensor most likely. This will cause a lot of stalling and running issues
    34 - egr, could be a lot of things, but it won't cause the engine to stall
    CM
    18 - this usually means the connection between the coil and the ECM is open. There are two green wires at the ignition coil. One comes from the ignition module, the other goes to the ECM through a resistor. If both of those wires are not connected, you'll get this.
    34 - see above

    Just a note, the CM codes just mean this happened at some point. It may not be an ongoing issue. Usually I'd suggest clearing these and checking to see if it comes back. If it does not, call it good.

    KOER
    21 - was the engine warmed up? If not, you will get this code. If the engine was up to temperature, the sensor is in the fitting where the heater hose attaches on the passenger side of the engine. Its a 2 wire sensor.
    23 - TPS is bad
    41 - oxygen sensor reads lean. This may be a vacuum leak, or it might be a problem related to the smog pump. Try removing the belt from the smog pump to see if it goes away
    91 - same thing, other side



    34 means the EGR is either stuck partly open, or the sensor is bad. Unplug the green hose to see if it has vacuum on it. if it does, the control solenoid is bad. Leave the hose off and re-test, you should get a code 33. If it does not, remove the valve and make sure there is nothing holding it partly open. If it is closed and not getting vacuum, the sensor is probably at fault or the wrong one. I have fixed this by lightly filing the end of the position sensor until the reading is correct. The valve MUST be fully closed though, or the engine will be prone to stalling.


    Based on your codes, I'd replace the TPS and check the EGR valve first. Clear the codes once you fix those two problems and see what comes back. If the engine was warmed up, replace the coolant temp sensor too.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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