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Thread: The Odissey continues: Fuel pump for a 1987 Colony Park?

  1. #21

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    Thanks Gadget!!! Really helpful!

    Iīm not sure if the engine was properly warmed up, i let the engine run some minutes, but will try it again but sometimes, the engine stop and doesnīt allow me to mantain the idle.
    About the oxigen sensor, it needs to be a HEGO? (heated sensor), or could be an EGO?
    how about this one?
    https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-13953-O...ct_top?ie=UTF8

    About the EGR, I bought a new one, so I will replace it. I will do your test anyway, but if you say that it could not be the main cause of my problem...
    Iīm trying to find a correct TPS to replace it too!
    Thanks!

  2. #22

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    Is this the remperature sensor?
    Looks pretty different to what I saw on the web.
    Also, it looks glued previously. Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #23
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Yes that is the engine coolant temperature sensor that the ECM uses to adjust fuel mixture. Definitely get that replaced.

    E1AZ12A648A or whatever compatible sensor that part number may have been superceded with.
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - I'll fix it eventually
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
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    Gone but not forgotten:
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  4. #24
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    honestly I have never had a HEGO code that was actually because of a bad sensor. If it says its lean, usually it really is lean.

    If the engine isn't warmed up, you might get codes for these too. Same if the temperature sensor is bad or if the EGR is hanging open.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

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  5. #25
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    yeah... fix the ones that are obviously broken, like the temp sensor, reset the codes, and see what comes back. It takes longer to fix things completely, but it will get done that way without just throwing parts and money at it.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  6. #26

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    Guys, I bought a Motorcraft temp sensor, but connectors are different, so I need to replace it for the new one included, but how I know which cable need to be attached to the new one? Any idea?
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  7. #27
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    If I'm not mistaken, the temp sensor is just a resistor so it does not matter which wire is connected to green and which one is connected to black.
    The resistance of the sensor changes with temperature and will measure the same either way.
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - I'll fix it eventually
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic


  8. #28
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    I'm using the new style sensor. Just cut the old connector off and wire in the new one.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
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  9. #29
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    +1 polarity is not an issue here.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  10. #30

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    I changed the temp. Sensor, TPS Sensor and pending the EGR replacement. Still with the same problem....
    In KOEO test only remains the EGR code 34.
    I upload a video about the problem. The engine starts ok, but after some minutes it stall and shut off. After that, it start again (no coil and TFI problems, since was replaced)

  11. #31
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    Where do you have that blue hose running to that comes off the throttle body? It’s not hooked to the PCV valve is it?

    That breather line should be run over to the barb coming off the oil fill pipe. I doubt it’s causing your shutoff, but it’s worth having hooked up correctly to ensure it’s not sucking air from somewhere it shouldn’t.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  12. #32
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    awful clattery sounding too. You may have some valvetrain issues that should be looked into.

    Check the vac routing, the blue hose as mentioned doesn't appear to be going where it should. Would be worth knowing where it is connected, and if something else is disconnected. The PCV valve is the only thing at the rear center of the lower intake, but that connects to a vacuum line that runs from the front center underneath the intake, loops through a T on the bottom corner of the upper, and then goes to the PCV valve itself. If that hose is hanging loose somewhere it is a major vacuum leak and will cause trouble.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #33

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    Wow, is a very important information. My mechanic left the hoses with those connections and I donīt remember the previous location of them, but I saw the barb without a connection and I think it was only a steam exhaust. I will check were is connected the blue hose. Those vac lines diagrams are available in any literature material? (Haynes, Chilton?)
    The valvetrain sound...I have a suspicion about it, but you confirm that, thanks that you have a expert ear!

    Also, I ordered this EGR and seems to be a different model and doesnīt fit the car. I bought several spare parts from this supplier and let myself be guided by the "compatibility table" from the ebay webpage:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Valve-f...53.m2749.l2649

    Iīm depressed with this situation, because I paid a lot of money on mechanic work and change a lot of parts, the engine was completely disasembled and still persist the problem. I think Iīm giving up, but my intention to save the wagon is strong, but my wallet and mind says "no more"

    To make the problem worse, I have a "Oil lagoon" under the car dripping from the transmission...
    Last edited by JesusGM; 01-26-2019 at 10:47 PM.

  14. #34
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    That's a truck EGR valve. The truck 302/351s use a considerably different upper intake setup compared to sedan ones.

    I wouldn't give up on your wagon just yet. If you're handy enough, you can get the vacuum lines squared away. I'll see about scanning my '87 EVTM for the vacuum routing stuff when I've got a little time. If the transmission leak is from the pan, redoing the gasket and refilling with some fresh fluid isn't terribly difficult.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  15. #35
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah, thats the external feed style EGR. The proper car ones don't have a threaded pipe connection.

    Also possible its the connection fittings on the side of the trans. Not sure if they were still using the quick connects in 87, but those things fail and leak badly.

    This is what I can get out of alldata for vacuum connections. Its not extremely detailed unfortunately. The emissions one should be the same as what is under the hood.



    Thats from a Mustang, but its pretty close to the same. The one marked "capped off" goes to the MAP sensor.

    basically the most important thing is to have no open vacuum connections or the engine will not run correctly.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 87 cp vac tree.jpg   87 cp emissions vac.jpg  

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #36
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quick connects on my 87's tranny.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  17. #37
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    OK, so thats answered. If you can determine the trans oil is leaking from the pipes on the passenger side, you may need a pair of these

    https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-60...Dorman+800-608

    If you're buying them, I'd get 4. There are 2 at the trans end, and two at the radiator. Its a common issue, especially if they have been unscrewed. You'll need the disconnect tool to remove them.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  18. #38

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    Ok guys, I change the connections of the blue hose and repositioned the (apparently) correct hose. Still need to diasembled and check the connection shown on the pic of Gadget. Now the engine doesnīt stop, but still stalls.

    Also, I found a barb without hose on the passengerīs side (with the red arrow), any idea where it goes?

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  19. #39
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    If I remember correctly... That should be the smaller port on the smog pump that would go to the cruise control servo to assist in pulling vacuum in high load situations to keep the cruise engaged. It's not needed for normal operation.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  20. #40
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The one on the side of the smog pump gets a vacuum line, the one on top does not. It splits from the cruise control hoses that go to the tree on the firewall. There is a T fitting, one side goes to the cruise control, the other goes down to this fitting. Its not needed to run correctly, but if the hose is just open it can cause you trouble. If you have an open fitting or hose behind the engine that goes to the cruise, cap it off.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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