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Thread: IM a noob, mods, what do yall think?

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    Default IM a noob, mods, what do yall think?

    Im the kid that recently got an 85 Crown Vic 2dr, so far the mods i've done, is a complete exhaust system. That means i made heddman long tube hedders fit (from a mustang, they took some cutting and welding and smashing) did a cat delete, and put on magna flow straight throughs, (they're simular to very similar to glass packs) then i made side exit pipes before the rear wheel (sorta like a dump before the axle). The next thing was i got a single plane high rise intake from ProPerf (china's best) to go along with a Edelbrock 1400. I picked up some E6 heads, from what i've read they have smaller combustion chamber than E5 heads and produce more torque then E7's let alone E5's. The intake and heads have been port matched from their previous owner. I'm going to port the E6's and take out the exhaust hump from the EGR. I'm also gonna be blocking off the EGR port (if I can find them) so none of that will be in the way. 'waiting for a fuel pressure regulator to come in, it should be in the 20th, then i guess to can keep you guys updated if y'all want ill probably post again if i remember. But do you guys think have i been making a good start to a fun car? I'm also working on a bug catcher scoop for a cold air intake for that older look. let me know what yall think, but im pretty sure besides a cam, ive gotten airflow taken car of.

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    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Buying a Panther is a good start to a fun car, period. So yes you are on the right track!

    You are doing the CFI to carb conversion?

    On the E6 heads. I’m in the minority... I feel there are benefits to E6 heads but they are not performance heads. Below 3000 rpm and at part throttle, they are good for cruising economy which is really what they were designed for. That same design retricts flow at full throttle higher rpm. If you haven’t swapped the E5 heads, just keep them or upgrade to a GT40 or p for cheap.

    It’s expensive to make a Panther fast since they have an extra 1000lbs on a Mustang. But it can be fun, even if it’s relatively slow.
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    I post a lot... knucklehead0202's Avatar
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    To make use of a single-plane intake, you'll need much better heads and cam. Also you'll want a shift kit and/or HO governor in the trans to raise shift points. Sounds like you're moving along, much quicker than some of us(me) so keep it up. Just be sure you plan your mods to work with each other. Definitely consider some lower rearend gears and possibly a stall converter.

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    ive already got 3.55 gears in the back with an lsd fortunatly. Would you recommend a roller cam or keep the flat tappet, i dont want to mess with the block so im leaning towards a cam from rock auto, some of their cams from 1968-1971 5.0's have aggressive grinds being flat tappets, especialy the cams from mustangs, cougars, and ltd's they're all the same grind, and a lit with lifters isn't even $100. Theres stage 1,2 and,3 cams, i fell this would be a great option opposed to convert to a roller setup

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    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    if yours is a roller-compatible block, a roller cam is a nice option. Some 85's do, some do not. You'll see the raised bosses in the lifter galley (or not) when you remove the intake. If its got the bosses, you'd need to tap them (easy) and get the spider, dogbones, and roller lifters.

    also, honestly I wouldn't bother with E6 heads. The E5 heads should flow slightly better at rpm than the e6 do. If you're replacing heads, you want something that is actually worth the effort involved.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    I post a lot... knucklehead0202's Avatar
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    Seriously, i don't know why people are put off buying good heads. Really not that expensive these days. I'm poor and cheap but willing to spend money on good parts. That being said i got a cheap set of used edelbrocks for $800. They're nothing special but still a jillion times better than factory iron heads, even gt40s.

    Also like Gadgo said, roller cam is the way to go, and you can find grinds for LoPo or HO(better) firing order. Because you're going carbed you don't have to worry about computer bullshit with the firing order so I'd go HO. There's lots of mustang cams out there. Hell i've got 2 spares if you want one. Got a holley systemax cam and some lunati that was in my 347 shortblock lying around.

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    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Having spent money to make ho-hum heads acceptable, it is indeed cheaper in the long run to just buy decent ones. If I had all this to do over, I'd probably have just bent over and bought some nice aluminum heads and been done with it. At this point unless it blows a head gasket, I have no plans to fool with it though. Hauling iron heads out from under the hood is quite frankly bullshit. I've done it, it sucks, and since then I've gotten older and less motivated to beat myself up doing such things.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Hauling iron heads out from under the hood is quite frankly bullshit. I've done it, it sucks, and since then I've gotten older and less motivated to beat myself up doing such things.
    Fuck that noise. Did that when I swapped the heads on the 92 Grand Marquis. Chest hurt for quite a bit lol. I put aluminum heads on the 351w. Those are like nothing compared to the cast iron heads!

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    bigger is better over2tonsofFun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by knucklehead0202 View Post
    Also you'll want a shift kit and/or HO governor in the trans to raise shift points.
    Tell me more on this HO governor?

    Tim
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    Scour eBay, Corral.net, and even Ford truck forums for aluminum heads if you know what you're looking for/at. Summit Racing has the TFS 11R 170 heads for $1650/pr. Perhaps a bit spendy, but worth it if you're looking to liven up your CV. Can Explorer 5.0s still be found? I think there was 1 left in the engine shed of my junkyard. I'd probably go that route and slap aluminum heads on top with a carb and go from there.

    Do you have pics of your headers and the mods that were done to get them to fit? I tried getting mid-length headers in my CV and the driver's side just grazed the frame enough to not want to mount to the cylinder head. If I had a shop or a decent sized garage; I woulda given some serious thought to cutting the frame and welding a concave piece of steel to make that header fit.

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    An HO block is a better starting point. As far as the transmission on my 84 it was stock with the exception of a B&M shift improver kit and a 2000rpm stall converter. I had to use two regulators to get my fuel pressure down to the 5 to 6psi for the carb. My ignition system was a hybrid HEI type. Friend found the plans online somewhere, was so long ago I don't remember all the details but it worked very well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by over2tonsofFun View Post
    Tell me more on this HO governor?

    Tim
    Our turd AOD's have a different governor than mustangs or stuff with HO motors that can use higher shift points due to different powerband. If you buy the Transgo HP shift kit, it comes with a Hi-Rev governor. Honestly not sure how any of it works because Autos are fuckin' voodoo but that's the way i understand it. Currently just considering buying a built AOD from silverfox and being done with it.

  13. #13
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The HO governor is basically NLA at this point
    The Transgo one may give you more RPM than the engine can make use of.

    basic WOT shift rpm is below
    lopo 4200
    truck 4500
    HO 4800
    HiRev 5500

    thats give/take a little bit of course

    The governor is actually a really simple device. Its a weight and a spring. It hooks to the output shaft of the trans, and when it spins fast enough the valve opens and forces a shift. Changing the weight or the spring changes the wide open shift point. No real magic to it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    What if you were to remove the govenor completly, would it not shift, or would you need to have a rachet style shifter, or would you have to do the aod shuffle to shift

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    I'm thinking it would never shift... or try to hold out until 8k rpm or so. I think it works on a differential pressure using the governor to force fluid one way with it bypassing via the weighted spring. I could be totally wrong though. You use the AOD shuffle to force the AOD to stay in gear longer instead of using the shift governor. A ratchet style shifter wouldn't make any difference except for how you shift into the gears.

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    Random mostly unrelated fact: If you ever lose second gear in an AOD, the AOD shuffle allows use of second gear after the 1-3 shift. If the cause of loss of the intermediate one way clutch.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
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    From my understanding the way shifters work in automatic cars, theres a cable that connects to the shifter it self and to the transmission. Depending on how far the cable is movie i.e shifting from P to R changes the length of the cable and forces pressure in the valve body somewhere so something opens up and the tranny goes into what ever you put it into, and for D its all relying on the valve body and pressure. Ive played around with rachet shifters and thats what ive seen. So if you put the rachet shifter into rachet mode to keep it in 1st or 2nd, With out a governor, would it be a sort of clutchless manual, or would you get into 1st and blow your motor from revving it too high? This could be avoided with a tach, but i thought the peice that changes your rev is a rev limiter or is that something else. This is a lot of new info

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    The only thing a ratchet shifter does is replace the column shifter. It still uses the same cable attachment on the transmission and therefore cannot change the way the transmission shifts. Only modifying the valve body of the transmission will change the way it shifts. You would still have to do the AOD shuffle with the ratchet shifter as there is no 2nd gear position on a standard AOD. You still only get OD(4), D(3), 1.

    as for revving too high... the stock lopo cam just can't. It runs out of steam between 3500 and 4000 rpm. It just can't go higher. An HO cam might be able to over rev if only for the reason that the valves may float if the valve springs are worn out. Shifting into low gear with the column shifter or the ratchet shifter would have the same result and may cause damage if going too fast at the time if it doesn't just bog down the system and cause the rear tires to skid or break something like the input shaft.

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    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
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  19. #19
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    You'd need a manual valve body to do that, not messing with the governor. I suspect if you remove the governor entirely it would completely stop working since there would be a large open fluid passage that would leak all of the fluid pressure out. Never tried it, and I'm not inclined to.

    you'd be better off trying to shim the stock spring with a washer than removing it. Exactly how much washer you'd need to alter the shift points I don't know. Not too hard to experiment but its kind of a pain in the ass taking the tailshaft housing off every time to fool with it.

    stock cam doesn't make any power up there anyway so there is no point. The Explorer cam is done with by 4800, the HO cam with heads and intake that breathe and appropriate springs will get you 5200-5500 maybe but thats about it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    I post a lot... knucklehead0202's Avatar
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    Funny how the lopo cam ran in the old car with the better heads, intake, and 1.7RR's. Having no tach i couldn't honestly say what RPM i was turning but manually shifting, that turd pulled soooooooo much longer than it did when stock. Funny thing is that i'd usually just shift it out of fear. If only i'd known what borrowed time it was on anyway....

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