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    #91
    Told ya

    Why I hate and refuse to buy rusty vehicles any more. Uphill battle as everything fights you & most of it breaks in the process. Another thing is, since I don't have a lift and am getting old, laying on my back all contorted is starting to suck more and more.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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      #92
      made new brake line today, at least flared one line completely, FR lines. just need to bend that to shape and start wrenching again, then see if i can do anything with the tool i have at home.
      Ray

      1997 Crown Victoria LX "Crown Shit"/"Crown Marquis" SENT TOI SCRAP
      1986 Ford Mustang Notchback

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        #93
        okay, the line i made today was way too short, then i realized that bending it by hand doesn't really cut it up front. rears were passable, fronts are a no no. at least got the FL line just about set, need to re flare in the morning.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        Ray

        1997 Crown Victoria LX "Crown Shit"/"Crown Marquis" SENT TOI SCRAP
        1986 Ford Mustang Notchback

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          #94
          Cheap tubing bender are decent. Not awesome but usable. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Tu...yABEgKdcfD_BwE
          1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
          1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

          GMN Box Panther History
          Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
          Box Panther Production Numbers

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            #95
            Are you using steel line or the newer NiCu ?
            03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
            02 SL500 Silver Arrow
            08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
            12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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              #96
              Originally posted by jaywish View Post
              Are you using steel line or the newer NiCu ?
              NiCu I think. I know it's not the same as what's on the car already, it's coated, that's all I specified.

              I've got a line bender tool at home too, got the FL line bent to shape. just have to re-flare it to a bubble flare... Ford.
              Ray

              1997 Crown Victoria LX "Crown Shit"/"Crown Marquis" SENT TOI SCRAP
              1986 Ford Mustang Notchback

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                #97
                Coated steel is common now. The Nickle stuff is easier to bend which is a big help for convoluted areas. Plus it is supposed to last longer than even the coated steel.
                03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                Comment


                  #98
                  What do they sell over the counter at parts stores? Some of the brake lines are pretty crusty on Ashley's new truck, going to replace them with that ultra easy pre flared stuff because it's not a show car and I'm lazy & lack the right tools.
                  1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                  1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                  Comment


                    #99
                    You can get green coated steel or the NiCOPP which is sort of brassy color. The NiCOPP hold up a lot better and bend easier. Steel is, well, steel. Anywhere the coating gets nicked, which tends to happen whenever it gets bent or shoved up over a frame spot, it rusts.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                      Parts stores usually carry both the coated steel and the NiCopp. I have a bit of both on my Town Car. Like the OP in this thread, once I fixed one line, another popped, and I later discovered the shitty work that'd been done on the rear lines before I bought it. The LF had a pinhole, or at least I think it did, it was very crusty and had a spot that was always damp but I never saw it leak until after I started removing it and it crumbled. Got that done, its the easiest line on the car. I made and flared the line with the NiCop because...well I'm not really sure why I bought that in the first place.. But I got it done and bled and then went under the car to change the oil, barely bumped the line to the RF where it runs under the engine and it crumbled. That was where I was glad I had that roll of NiCop because I dunno if I could have made that line in one piece with steel. My rear lines as i mentioned had been done prior to my ownership, whoever did it used pre-flared bulk lines from the parts store with unions every several feet. Not ideal IMO, but passable and at least there weren't any compression fittings. However, where they run up over the frame above the wheels was REALLY sloppy, likely cuz they were using pre-flared lines and they were slightly too long. So I bought a couple pre-flared coated steel lines and disconnected the crap that was there at the union(s) ahead of the rear wheels and ran everything from there to the wheels myself, cutting and flaring to the correct length and fitting type rather than using the SAE to Metric adapters at the rear hoses like what was there before.
                      -Steve

                      2006 Audi A6 S-Line FWD ~132k miles, stock.
                      1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~102k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
                      1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel, rustbelt diet plan..
                      1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

                      Comment


                        ok yeah they were just coated steel


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                        Ray

                        1997 Crown Victoria LX "Crown Shit"/"Crown Marquis" SENT TOI SCRAP
                        1986 Ford Mustang Notchback

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                          LF line is bent and flared, waiting until it's dry again to put it on. i really hope the RF line is going to go ok in one piece, and i hope i made it long enough this time.


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                          Ray

                          1997 Crown Victoria LX "Crown Shit"/"Crown Marquis" SENT TOI SCRAP
                          1986 Ford Mustang Notchback

                          Comment


                            Lines are completely done. Still just a tad soft, though i think that's how it was right before the line blew, only bled 3 calipers then, just bled the fronts this time because i didn't want to get all 4 wheels off. gonna drive about 10 miles to my vocational class, re-bleed all 4 brakes, then drive another 10 back to my home school. Fingers crossed.

                            plugged in those O2 sensors again too, check engine light is still there, are these OBD2? or are they still OBD1? i'm almost positive it might still be some O2 sensor related problem but i would like to be sure.

                            and the speedo works! did a half ass job with the repair but it works for now and therefore, i don't complain.

                            and i forgot to put the TC inspection cover back on, the one that goes here

                            should i put that on real quick before taking it out? can it wait about 10 miles?


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            Ray

                            1997 Crown Victoria LX "Crown Shit"/"Crown Marquis" SENT TOI SCRAP
                            1986 Ford Mustang Notchback

                            Comment


                              “Let ‘Er rip tater chip”

                              You are fine to go 10 miles without the inspection cover.
                              1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                              1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                              GMN Box Panther History
                              Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                              Box Panther Production Numbers

                              Comment


                                how quickly can plans change...

                                decided it's probably a better idea to give it a couple days of 5+ mile trips instead of jumping back to my normal commutes.


                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                                Ray

                                1997 Crown Victoria LX "Crown Shit"/"Crown Marquis" SENT TOI SCRAP
                                1986 Ford Mustang Notchback

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