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Thread: 87 gm touchy brakes

  1. #1

    Default 87 gm touchy brakes

    So my 87 has had touchy brakes since I got it but its only when I use them the first couple of times then its ok. The last time I moved the car I had to move it from a house a block away and when I turned into my driveway I had no brakes at all. Im pretty confused by the symptoms since theyre polar opposites, has anyone come across this issue before? What could be the problem? My pcv valve grommet comes out sometimes, could that have caused it? Also what can I use to seal it? It seems that the new pcv gaskets have a tendency to be too small for the port on the lower intake.

  2. #2
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    Do the brakes work now? If not check the fluid level and post up.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17

  3. #3

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    Im far from the car at the moment but the last I checked yes they worked when I put it on ramps and the fluid level was fine

  4. #4
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    The no brakes could have been rust. Either or rusty rotors / stuck calipers. Grabby brakes can be the same if it is after a long period sitting especially in weather. Forewarned is forearmed. It is a dangers thing not to have brakes. This should not occur on a car in regular use.

    If it is grabby when cold while the car is in daily use I would first inspect the calipers and finding nothing obvious then change the pads and hardware. I like Centric Extended Wear pads for even performance hot or cold. They do seem a bit dusty though.
    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...434359&jsn=568

    Go Big brakes! (require 16"wheels)
    Best upgrade after swaybar, shocks and good tires. (big brakes require 16" or larger wheels so consider this when buying new tires)
    Last edited by jaywish; 01-31-2019 at 02:47 PM.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17

  5. #5
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Large size heat shrink tubing around the PCV valve to fatten it up works nicely.

    Time for a brake inspection, front and rear. Check the hoses closely too, if they show cracks when you bend them, it wants new ones.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  6. #6

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    Thanks Ill check that out when I get back. Im in North Florida right now for training and wont be back until the week after next but Ill keep this in mind. I bought some new parts for the marquis and cant wait to install them.

    On a side note, this car has the wiring for power locks and wiring to the solenoids but doesnt have lock switches, does that mean someone removed the switches or it didnt have power locks from the factory? Can they be added if thats the case?

  7. #7
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    it should have a rocker switch on the door panel switch bank for power locks. If its got the solenoids, its definitely got the option.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #8

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    Ive found pieces of the switches in the car but not the switches. Ive tried probing the harnesses and get no power. I also tried installing switches but that changed nothing.

  9. #9
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Check fuses 8 and 12. 12 also runs the lighters. If you get clicking but no locks, thats the dead one. No clicking is more likely fuse 8. There is a lock and an unlock relay somewhere in the passenger kick panel area, but they're rarely an issue. Both do need to be installed for the locks to work though.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #10

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    Ill have to keep that in mind when I get back home. I know Ive checked all the fuses before but I couldve overlooked something.

  11. #11

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    Any car of this era that's been sitting a while, I just buy new sliders for the calipers. Don't even bother checking the old ones, just grease the new ones and replace them one at a time.
    If the old ones are good then you have a set for the next brake job. If the plating is worn off and they're crusty with worn ridges and heavy rust, that's making your brakes stick and act twitchy and they should have been in the trash ages ago.
    Don't bother wire wheeling/grinding them, they never work right after they're rusty and they just rust again, and you'll spend a day for a piece that will seize up again and costs less than $10 new anyway.
    My '86 LTD CV had the same problem, was sitting almost 2 years. I could have cleaned and greased the sliders and used a brillo pad to get the rust off the rotors, but I figured after that sort of sitting and corrosion I'd be better off with new bearings, rotors, and sliders. I replaced the brake hoses (and calipers, with the police version) while I was at it, because the old ones were probably original.
    Parts for these are cheap, no sense in making more work later if you're in there now.

    But if everything else is good, do just the sliders and I bet it will be much better.

  12. #12
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I went the same route on the Continental. New calipers, hoses, pads, pins. Same brakes on the front of that car as a box. I left the rotors because they were in good shape. I could have actually left the pads, but didn't know that until they came off. It did get new bearings though, one set had a bit of color that I didn't like. That car sat nearly 10 years. It was actually not obviously malfunctioning when I got it, but the brake hoses were downright scary when I pulled them. All of the brake stuff was redone before I started driving it, and the brakes work very well. I did mostly the same on the back, except the hoses. Cant find ones that fit.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #13

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    Yea this poor car has been sitting for a while. My buddy sold it to a friend about 3 years ago and that guy let it sit for about a year before he bought it back. Then he let it sit while he tried turning it into a racecar before he lost interest and sold it to me lol. Since Ive owned it its pretty much sat since it needed so much work and now that I have 2 jobs I have to do all the work at one time instead of little by little wrenching on it every day. Its to the point where its almost done though. One o2 sensor needs to be replaced, the muffler and tail pipe need to be installed and the fuel level sensor needs to be fixed and then itll be roadworthy. I didnt think too much about the brakes to be honest since when they work they work very well but I see the need to now lol. Plus that fluid is probably so nasty.

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