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2004 LTC: Cruise Control servo/vacuum module

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    2004 LTC: Cruise Control servo/vacuum module

    My cruise control worked when I got my car (in 2011) then stopped working a year or so later. The switches all seem to work (based on dash indicator light goes on/off when commanded, and above 35mph), and the brake disengages it. It failed over time, where the cruise would only hold for a little while, continuing to having no response at all. Never tried to fix it until now. Looking at the servo, it looks like it's cracked, but with it bolted in place, it's hard to get a better look at it. Has anyone seen these units crack like this (see 2 opening on bottom of round feature) before? Is this going into the vacuum chamber rendering it useless? There is a PN visible on it, is the PN I need to order 4W13-9C734-AA? There are plenty of "hits" on the 9C734 part of the PN, but many variations on the prefix. How do I remove the vacuum line from it?

    #2
    Hmm. Is this servo vacuum driven, or purely electro/mechanical? Not sure.

    Comment


      #3
      Will this cause it to fail? Looks fatal.

      Comment


        #4
        Never had to r&r one before but it looks like the throttle connection is removed by depressing the clip to clear the metal detente (shown on left just under the linkage in your first photo) and rotating the plastic counter-clockwise. The electrical connector looks typical.
        03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
        12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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          #5
          That one should be all electronic. Cable comes off by pushing the tab and giving it a turn. Once thats off, the end of the cable is a ball or something that hooks into the mechanism in a reasonably obvious way.

          Looks like it got wet and corroded.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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            #6
            I figured out how to remove it, simple disconnect on the connector and the cable. Looks like it got water in it, froze, expanded and cracked. Would this make it inoperable? Can I get any servo PN xxxx-9c734? Or are the electronics model specific and I need a 4W13-9C734-AA? Should I remove the (4) #25 torx screws and remove the electronics portion to have a look inside?

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              #7
              if it froze and broke the housing I suspect it may be SOL. Not sure how specific those things are, I'd assume (yeah, yeah) that they are all the same other than the cable but that may not be so. The base part number in the middle is probably too broad though. I wouldn't be surprised if the stuff from the 60s onward used that string in the middle.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Yeah... that one looks done for. 2003/2004 were weird years. Some crossover backwards... some forwards. Just find one that looks the same as that one and it should work. I would try to find the same year first though.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                  #9
                  There are plenty that LOOK THE SAME on fleabay. My cable is fine, so I don't need that. I didn't even think about the cable being part of it making a different PN, makes sense (thanks Gadget!), if the cable is actually part of this PN.
                  I'm surprised I don't see these on RockAuto, am I missing it? Any suggestions on places to order these online?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Found a servo on ebay that's displayed with the electronic control module removed showing what's inside. I guess it wouldn't be an issue taking mine apart for a look at it.
                    https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-Cr...IAAOSwZ8pcLQ5f

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Never a problem taking a broken one apart. If the top control section is still ok (sounds like it is) that may be your best bet to just change out the motor section.

                      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                      Originally posted by dmccaig
                      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I'm not sure if I can go without the throttle cable attached at this end. Figured I better wait until I have the new part in hand. Now that I see there aren't any springs or anything that will jump for freedom when I open it, I'll be looking. [emoji106]

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I've played a little with various modules and haven't found much difference.
                          The differences I can think of would probably be related to speed of engagement/disengagement/response based on vehicle power and performance, and manual/auto transmission.

                          The electronic servo controls all look pretty much the same except p/n, the cables are different (but easily disconnected).
                          Interesting fact that I've come across while experimenting with engine swaps: pretty much all Ford cruise control setups from the early 1970s until the electronic throttle controls (and possibly even then!) use the same switch setup, whether it's the dealer-installed steering stalk switch on a 1970s Thunderbird, or the factory steering wheel controls on a 2004 Focus. The 2-wire setup and resistance figures for the switches are identical and the pulse-per-mile of the speed sensor is the same.

                          So I wouldn't stress too much about swapping from one unit to another as long as you test it on a stretch of open road, in case it decides to accelerate really fast, really slow, or some sort of other behavior based on a different vehicle's performance.

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                            #14
                            I disconnected the harness and removed the servo motor from the car to see if I could disassemble it and fix it. The housing was cracked and a piece broke off when I tried to turn the shaft on the driver motor. The driver motor is seized, won't budge. Ordered a replacement (module, servo, cable, and bracket) off ebay, $69 w/shipping. Not due to arrive until early next week.
                            I'm going to have to put the old one back in because now none of the controls on the steering wheel work at all. Heater fan, radio controls, and even the horn doesn't work now. Hope they come to life when I put it back in tomorrow.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I reinstalled the cruise control module and all my steering wheel controls, and the horn, came back to life. Apparently the circuits for these switches goes thru this control module. Learned something new!

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