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    Welding

    Does anybody have any tips or warnings for welding body panels on cars with an ECU? I am going to replace the driver's side floor panel from front to back. For whatever reasons, that side rotted out pretty bad. The other side has been oil-slicked and is rot-free. I will cut the floor out of the '88 MGM at the junkyard and weld it in place of the CV floor. I don't know how that will affect the ECU.

    #2
    Disconnect the battery just to play it safe.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Originally posted by ootdega
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

    Originally posted by gadget73
    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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      #3
      Thanks I was planning on doing that; usually do that when disconnecting sensors and such. Just didn't know if the ECU needed to be removed or disconnected.

      Comment


        #4
        Some will say its fine, but why risk it? Me I would pull the terminals on the battery to be sure. I hate electrical problems because they can be difficult to figure out. You can even remove the computer if you wish.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




        Comment


          #5
          Mine has been welded on a few times, other than unhooking the battery no special precautions were taken. ECM hasn't blown up.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            ditto.
            03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
            02 SL500 Silver Arrow
            08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
            12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

            Comment


              #7
              Always unhook the batteries both + & -
              Set you ground clamp as close as possible to the area to be welded with a clean connection.

              The key to this is the elimination of the weld circuit searching for a path of least resistance for a ground. Fried electronics are not good..

              also ecu has a pretty simple plug to disconnect for the full protection factor

              Comment


                #8
                I didn't disconnect anything on the 88 when I welded the driver inner door skin back together. But I didn't turn on the car while I was doing that either. I was using flux-core wire in a cheapo Harbor Freight 90A welder... so I doubt there was much chance of anything going wrong. Didn't cook anything either.

                There is no issue with brazing or torch welding since you're just using heat.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment


                  #9
                  other than risk of fire of course. I prefer torch welding. can't see for shit with the electric metal glue gun and the results are predictably horrible. Brazing or torch welding is like big-boy soldering and I can see what I'm doing.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment

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