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    #16
    Originally posted by GMP318 View Post
    ...Idling too high is an indication of a vacuum leak.
    Not always.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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      #17
      Howdy. I'm in the Fort Wayne area. Glad to see a 2dr merc! If you're nearby I could help with some stuff I'm sure.
      Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

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        #18
        Forgot about this. When i bought my latest '90, the guy tosses me the keys and jumps in the back seat. Didn't realize 'til a few days later that the passenger door wouldn't open from the outside because of stuck/bad lock actuator. I was so distraught over my other '90 being wrecked that i overlooked a lot of shit wrong with it because it was another white '90 and actually better equipped than my first one. Had to rebuild all 4 window motors, replace both door-lock actuators, thing runs weak as fuck compared to the first car, despite being a k-axle, factory dual exhaust car with allegedly less mileage. Oh well, it'll get awesome eventually.

        Best of luck with your planned repairs, the guys here are all great, and there are some CFI experts, not that i'd ever keep it

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          #19
          CFI is dandy, just be sure to get it on the freeway every so often for 15 miles or more. Will keep the EGR from schmoo'ing up again.

          Yeah I kick all the tires, right down to checking if the key works in the passenger door. Hate that shiz.
          1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
          1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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            #20
            Originally posted by marquis_82_withneons View Post
            Welcome to the site! Fellow Indiana resident as well.

            I thought the car looked familiar.. I was the guy annoying you when you stopped in ziebart! Lol
            Hey, funny to find you in here after that! You did not seem annoying to me, I’m happy for any information about or help with the car. I can just be very short and somewhat awkward in person as I am not very good at small talk and I have trouble bringing more people into my life even in small ways because I already feel much more occupied than I would like.

            I’m fairly certain I even remember your name but since this is the internet I won’t just throw it out but it starts with a ‘B’ if my memory serves.


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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              #21
              Hello all, been busy with work and had poor access to internet but I appreciate all the replies.

              The Marq’ is still running quite well for the most part. I have noticed that it likes to idle high and take off/ not slow down while cruising for a bit after I start it. (I had replaced a grommet early on which I thought had fixed the high idle). I also have spent time adjusting the choke here and there. If I set it to a point where I don’t experience high idling upon start up, it will occasionally die while braking or slowing down (especially if I am running the A-C). As I had read from this thread, maybe it is a vacuum issue? I do plan on rebuilding the carburetor at this point.

              After driving around and warming it up it returns to a comfortable, healthy sounding idle, does not take off too quickly when I let off the brake, and slows down as it should when I let off the gas while cruising. (I however do not have the proper tools to read rpms though someone may have mentioned something about a tool or meter of the sort existing).

              I am experiencing a minor vibration. I have put all new tires on and had them balanced. During the tire change I was told that the rear ‘wheel cylinders’ were both leaking in the back. I plan to look into fixing this myself if possible.

              I took it to a different shop too see if they could help me pinpoint the minor vibration. They said all they could find was a broken/ loose transmission mount which I had repaired. The minor vibration still persists. I can see my passenger seat shaking from time to time. It is much more noticeable at 45 mph and up.

              Though I have gotten the windows tinted now, I am of course holding off on the paint job until I can resolve all of the mechanical issues. I never intended to ‘put the cart in front of the horse’ as someone so sanctimoniously assumed. Though I am very anxious to have this project completed as a whole.

              I was quoted quite an incredible amount of money IMO for re- upholstering the vinyl which partially covers the rear top half on the exterior of the vehicle. I was quoted roughly 2 grand for that job alone. I was told they have to go from the inside and remove the headliner and some other parts which he explained to me in depth. I asked what the price would be if I took it apart myself and had it ready for them to do the job. I offered as well to put everything back together once they had finished the job and I was still quoted around one grand. Though this was just the quote from one shop I was quite surprised and will be doing more research.


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                #22
                Originally posted by sly View Post
                If the engine is all original and the timing chain hasn't been replaced... do that as soon as you can. The cam gear is made of plastic and will break. A new timing set will give that engine a new lease on life.
                I would like to take you up on this advice but I’m still learning a lot every day. The timing belt I’m guessing is the long rubber belt that serpents between the alternator, fan, engine, and a couple of other pulleys in the same series? After it’s rained or when it’s damp out, I will hear a light chirping coming from, I imagine, this belt for a time after starting up. Is there any way you could help me figure out better which of these is the ‘cam gear’? Most of them appear to not be plastic but I don’t have the best viewpoint.


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                  #23
                  Timing is a chain. It's behind the panel the water pump is mounted on (the part the fan and pulley are bolted to). It's a LONG, all day job for a pro. It's a weekend job for a first timer with all the needed tools. Definitely a job to have some help with for a first time run. The timing gears must be oriented properly. You have to put both gears and chain on in one shot. Not an easy job. Not as hard as a trans or engine rebuild, but still a pain.

                  Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                  rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                  Originally posted by dmccaig
                  Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                    #24
                    If tires are balanced and wheels are true, the vibration could be a universal joint in the driveshaft going bad. Or possibly the driveshaft isn’t perfectly balanced. U-joint would be the cheapest first thing to try. You can usually hear them squeak while rocking the car back and forth in neutral/engine off, if they are indeed bad.

                    Wheel cylinders leaking is common if they are old. Not hard, but you really need someone there who has messed with drum brakes before.
                    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                    GMN Box Panther History
                    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                    Box Panther Production Numbers

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                      #25
                      tip for drum brakes, do not take apart both sides at the same time. If you leave one side alone, you'll at least have a reference for what it should look like.


                      The timing chain is sort of annoying, but its a hell of a lot less annoying than replacing cylinder heads in the car.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                        #26
                        Having the vinyl top replaced is pretty labor intensive. They are one hundred percent correct in removing the headliner (which needs surrounding panels removed first). Then once all of the trim is removed from the interior the fasteners for the exterior trim are revealed. You have to remove all old vinyl and padding and glue. Repair any damages that are underneath. It is no uncommon to find rust under the vinyl. New padding and vinyl and reassembly. It is a big job. I have done it myself and had a shop just install the new material.
                        ~David~

                        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                        Originally posted by ootdega
                        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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                          #27
                          I'm not an expert by any means but a big help for me tackling new projects is having the ability to lay all the parts out as they come off. Kinda of giving yourself a map to go back together.

                          Also invest in a good vacuum hand pump for the brakes if you're doing any of it solo.
                          Charlette - Brown 1977 Ford LTD - 351 Windsor 155K, Full Custom Pioneer system, green HID, interior & underbody
                          Alesha - Black 1982 Mercury Marquis - 255ci 178K, full custom Kenwood and Infinity system, lowered, dual exhaust, LED all the things
                          Tangerine Dream - Orange 1988 F-150 Custom - 300 i6 82k, Ghetto sound system, 5spd, 2WD, #farmtruck

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