PotM GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters Forum Index PotM
GMN Chat Room GMN's STORE!! GMN's Gallery Please!!
Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: Steering Shaft Question

  1. #1
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Evans, GA
    Posts
    1,426

    Default Steering Shaft Question

    I'm doing the steering joint on the '87. Old one is super wasted from oil exposure. Separated the shaft from the steering gear box no problem.

    Question is, does the shaft actually separate into two pieces where it slides? It feels like there's a stop once its "fully extended". Don't want to damage anything, just figured it would be easier to deal with the rivets with it 100% out of the car. If it can't be separated, there's enough room to do the work in car.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  2. #2
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Lewisville, TX
    Posts
    21,038

    Default

    Isn't there a u-joint under the brake booster you can remove the set screw from?

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  3. #3
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Whitestone, NY
    Posts
    18,577

    Default

    Unbolt from steering box. Unbolt shaft near brake booster and after a lot of cussing and swearing (maybe only northern cars) you will have the shaft in your hands.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  4. #4
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Shelby Township, MI
    Posts
    2,827

    Default

    Yes, it separates, but is a pain as I recall since it takes a fair amount of force. There's a metal clip at the lower end of the top half that provides quite a bit of tension inside the lower half, iirc.

    Well that's for the part in the steering column, although the part in the engine bay may be the same.

    I don't think I covered this in the threads where I was working on the steering shaft (upper part in the steering column), but here is what I have related to the subject just in case:
    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...ft-Interchange
    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...aration-advice
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - I'll fix it eventually
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic


  5. #5
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    37,752

    Default

    Its two piece but there isn't much need to take it apart if it will actually slide. Mine was rusted fast and had to be heated considerably to move in order to get the box out and back in. Shoot some oil in there to keep it free though. Unbolt it under the brake booster and pull it that way.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  6. #6
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Evans, GA
    Posts
    1,426

    Default

    I never paid any attention around the brake booster for the u-joint. I know itís there, but I didnít inspect it further. Even though this is a southern car, I expected a fight given the mileage, but the shaft slipped right off the steering gear no fuss.

    Since Iím running a later air tube, I had plenty of room to do my drilling of the rivets in the engine bay after I had it off at the bottom and it moved freely enough on the shaft to make it easy enough, so I didnít remove it at the top.

    Old rag joint was like jelly and was actually torn apart at the bottom, while the rest was badly separating. It was oozing oil from some encounter long ago. The car always had loose steering which for the longest I chalked up to old car, but once I realized it was the joint, I knew it needed fixing. Iím glad it didnít tear apart entirely while driving. Itís nice and tight now.

    Old:


    New:

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  7. #7
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Whitestone, NY
    Posts
    18,577

    Default

    Nice. I had a hell of a time removing mine from my car. I removed it entirely to adapt it to the later steering box. It was not fun. Then fabbing up the adaptor between new lower piece and existing upper was also an experience.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  8. #8

    Default

    Did you use regular bolts in place of the rivets? I thought about doing that once my fails but Im afraid the bolts would back out as I was driving lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Evans, GA
    Posts
    1,426

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
    Did you use regular bolts in place of the rivets? I thought about doing that once my fails but Im afraid the bolts would back out as I was driving lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I used a Dorman kit that included everything. The nuts they use are nylon lock type despite the assembly instructions showing lock washers.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  10. #10

    Default

    Oh ok good to know. My old 98 p71 had a loose rag joint but I hesitated to replace it and I couldnt find a whole steering shaft for a reasonable price. Im surprised the steering in my 87 is as tight as it is and it looks like pretty much all of the steering components are stock.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    37,752

    Default

    the rags usually fail from oil exposure, and the only thing that should make a huge mess right in that area is something in the power steering system leaking.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #12
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Evans, GA
    Posts
    1,426

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    the rags usually fail from oil exposure, and the only thing that should make a huge mess right in that area is something in the power steering system leaking.
    I suspect mine leaked fluid onto it some time ago, and it's been left like that ever since. Also, my car is missing its "stone guard" as the literature goes, which is that two piece plastic cover that goes over it. I'm sure that also helps protect it some. I snagged a replacement off a junkyard car. That car's joint still looked really good, but it was clear that pump was leaking directly onto the cover as it was all greasy and nasty. I'll be installing that once I clean it and adjust the shaft. I thought I had it on straight, but slid it on tilted slightly right. Į\_(ツ)_/Į

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  13. #13
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON
    Posts
    1,583

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
    I used a Dorman kit that included everything. The nuts they use are nylon lock type despite the assembly instructions showing lock washers.
    Which Dorman kit and are you completely satisfied with its fitment for the job?

    I'm seeing 31000 or 31005 as applicable to our actual vehicles and 31002 as a universal with no applications.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  14. #14
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Evans, GA
    Posts
    1,426

    Default

    Dorman 31000. As fitment wise goes, I'll give it an 80%. It'll do the job properly once it's installed, but it'll also make you go "Wait, is this right?" during the install.

    The disc really could do with the four holes being maybe a centimeter further out. You wind up with bolts passing through it at angles until you start tightening stuff into place, and if you look at my picture, there's a little metal tab you can see that is supposed to go over the disc some. There's two of those, one at the top and one at the bottom, and they're recycled from the pieces you drilled the rivets off of. I had to bend the lip on them up just a touch for it to clear adequately without it just cutting into the disc while tightening. The disc has enough give that you can make it all work. One thing I did find was that when re-installing the pinch bolt, the nut holding that upper piece on needs to come off so the bolt can actually be re-inserted, but that's just simply because the nut is much bulkier than a rivet head.

    Looking at the difference between the 31000 and 31005, I really can't make heads or tails of that deal. It looks like the hardware is the same. Only thing I could consider is if the disc is a little larger, but all the stock images appear to be the same. If I remember, I'll see if I have both kits at the store and I'll try to compare them.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  15. #15
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Evans, GA
    Posts
    1,426

    Default

    So the only product different I can find in the listing is the 31000 says ‘Material: Rubber’ and the 31005 says ‘Material: Steel’. Unfortunately the 31005 is special order so ordering it for observation isn’t possible.

    All the dimensions are the same and unfortunately use the same stock photo, so I don’t know if the 31005 is reinforced in some way or if Dorman slings two of the same part, one just being slightly more uncommon. I think for most the 31000 will work fine as a OE replacement.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  16. #16
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    37,752

    Default

    Whatever is on the shelf at most places is whats in my car for the late model steering box swap. Been there for years, still fine. The holes weren't perfectly aligned on that either but it goes together once you get it started and start making it tight.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
GMN Approved Links!


www.rockauto.com www.adtr.net