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    Did the compression tests tonight, lowest was cyl 3, at 7 bar, highest cyl 4 at 8 bar, rest were pretty much spot on 7,5 bar. And of course the tester had a long shaft so i couldn't check cylinders 7 & 8. Also the tester was a push-against-the-spark-plug-hole-and-hold-for-dear-life-style of tester because of the 4 screw-on caps not one did fit.

    How do I temporarily disable the air pump to make sure it doesn't leak air anywhere? Can I unplug the two solenoids, does that turn off the pump or do I need to take off the belt to completely stop the thing?

    @gadget73
    I unhooked and plugged the egr line, I'd say the misfiring got even worse, it happened even on the highway all the way to around 60 MPH. Going faster, not really anything, although giving less throttle (i.e. downhills) it started again. A stab of throttle and it kinda disappears. I'll plug it back in and drive around to make sure it was about that or just this turd going for the worse by itself.

    The TPS was one of the things I changed before I took the car to the shop, the thing gave codes for TPS, EGR sensor and IDM circuit (post #37). After I changed the TPS and EGR sensor, I haven't had the car stall at all.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

    Comment


      Unplug the two solenoids and the pump purges to atmosphere if I remember correctly (or just disables it). It may still pump air to the cats. You can be absolutely sure if you disconnect the hose from the big fat check valve on the crossover pipe on the back of the heads. The check valve (unless it's blow out) should keep exhaust gases from exiting.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

      Comment


        You should go to the bar more. 1 bar = 14.7 psi so the weak cyl is 103 psi and the best at 118. All of that is low. You want better than 130 for a good strong motor, so ~9 bar. Weak compression usually also gives low vacuum. Under 16 inches of mercury (406 mm mercury) will make things unhappy. The more vacuum the better.

        When you did the test, was the throttle wide open and the battery in good shape? It ends up low otherwise.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
          You should go to the bar more. 1 bar = 14.7 psi so the weak cyl is 103 psi and the best at 118. All of that is low. You want better than 130 for a good strong motor, so ~9 bar. Weak compression usually also gives low vacuum. Under 16 inches of mercury (406 mm mercury) will make things unhappy. The more vacuum the better.

          When you did the test, was the throttle wide open and the battery in good shape? It ends up low otherwise.
          Eh, I think I'll redo the tests then, didn't realise to mention to floor the gas (I was the one trying to hold the gauge against the block). Battery is good, engine was cold though, I kinda don't want to go fiddling around the manifolds when it's hot, it doesn't have to be done with a hot engine, right? Hopefully I'll find a proper adapter for the spark plug holes from a store.
          This engine is a stock lopo (truly gutless) smog-ridden turd with 8.4:1 compression IIRC, but you probably already knew that.
          I should probably measure the produced vacuum too, measure that when hot/cold/idle/park/in gear?
          1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
          1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

          Comment


            Should only need to bump the starter for a couple rotations, but having a compression tester that threads in helps a LOT.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

            Comment


              I wonder if it might still have water in the gas tank, the car did sit alot before I bought it, though I've driven it for almost 2000 miles now, quite a few tanks of gas and did put a bottle of fuel additive thats supposed to eliminate water and de-ice.
              Though I'd assume that water would be felt during acceleration, but it's fine in mine and runs very smooth when accelerating.
              And these things don't have a drain plug in the tanks, of course?
              1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
              1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

              Comment


                nope... need a siphon.

                If it runs fine under hard acceleration, but badly under small load, you could have a leaky injector (it's not sealing off completely) and causing it to run pig rich at idle.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment


                  Had the battery light on after the compression testing, wouldn't go out and blinkers started slowing down, the alternator has 3 (a small one too at the bottom, don't think that has a function) posts and 3 plugs that go into them, one was not attached, plugged it in to the one post without, still doesn't charge.
                  I swapped the brown and yellow wires around, not charging, back the other way, even tried the small post-looking stud lowest on the alternator backside.

                  Not charging and a faint electrical burning reek is present. Can anyone link or show which wire goes to what post on the alternator, mine has a yellow and a more brown wire, and a big black one but that's obvious.
                  This car hates me...
                  1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                  1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                  Comment


                    I got the alternator out, bolts required some encouragement from a meter long breaker bar, the positive terminal was quite oxidised.
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                    60A unit, from what I read from the forums, nobody likes these and some like to catch on fire.

                    I doubt that the parts store has one in stock, I'll take a shot anyways, also I'm not sure about rebuilding one, seems like the day to buy the beater has arrived.

                    Wouldn't mind someone telling me which wire goes to which post, big black one goes to BAT, I guess.
                    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                    Comment


                      That’s the Ford 1G. It’s replaced by newer, higher output alternators by a lot of people. 60A just doesn’t cut it for new electronics. But they are fairly reliable and cheap.

                      It’s the 2G that will set the car on fire.

                      Here’s a link to a wiring diagram: http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/publ...ALT_wiring.gif
                      1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                      1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                      GMN Box Panther History
                      Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                      Box Panther Production Numbers

                      Comment


                        I found a new alternator locally, it's now in and it still doesn't charge, even with giving it throttle.
                        I have three wires, BAT, S and F, according to the diagram Tiggie graciously linked, all connected correctly, if the layout of the new alternator is the same (same back half, no writing and it's rotated 180°)

                        Should a 1G alternator have a separate ground wire, like in the diagram?
                        1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                        1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                        Comment


                          It charges now! How about that 190€ free fix?

                          My father had a voltage regulator lying around from an earlier feedback carb Ferd. Similar looking tin box with a letter for each of the 4 pins. Plugged it in, fire it up, amp light goes out and it charges now.
                          Still seemed to have the misfire though, I'll be driving it tomorrow for about 100km, we'll see if anything changes after the battery gets completely charged back up. Also filled her up with premium for a try.

                          I just wonder if it's the voltage regulator that went out or just the reeeally crusty connector it has. I'll get around to properly cleaning up that connector when weekend comes by, no time otherwise
                          Last edited by Arquemann; 10-01-2019, 01:41 PM.
                          1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                          1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                          Comment


                            yeah the old 1g isn't amazing but its super reliable. You can usually rebuild those easy enough. 2 bearings and a set of brushes will usually get them going again. There are instructions all over the internet, its the same alternator they ran from the mid 60s through the mid 80s on everything.

                            It will ground fine through the mounting bracket but you may have to take a file or wire brush to clean things up. I once painted the alternator brackets on my car and did such a good job the alternator completely stopped working. A file to remove the paint at the lower pivot fixed it. Crusty connections anywhere else will give you trouble too, the small plug on the side of the alternator, the regulator, and the charge cable need to be cleaned every few decades.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              Some good news: I got the emissions info.
                              Pre- Oct. 1st 1986, emissions limitations for gas powered vehicles are as follows: max. 4,5 CO (%) and 1000 HC (ppm), measured at idle (below 1000rpm).

                              So that's just fine, pretty much as long as I have something even remotely resembling a catalytic converter under the car, it should pass with flying colours. No matter if it has EFI, a carb, EGR or that Thermactor-crap.
                              1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                              1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                              Comment


                                Today I disconnected the EGR and TAB/TAD solenoids, left EGR vacuum line in. Drove 100km highway at 65-70 mph, a bit of traffic lights and low speeds after that.
                                Still very jerky, even jerks a bit at 65mph, but the idle is a bit better, in gear it stumbles probably half as much, and in park or neutral, when the idle is higher, it's a constant shaking, like an older, bigger v8. It should probably be silky smooth like it is every now and then, but it feels way more natural than the intermittent stumble and jerk it usually does.

                                I'll drive it more as is and make sure my observations are correct.
                                1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                                1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

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