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Thread: Happy to join this community! Mostly looking for help though...

  1. #21
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    Today I went around town as a shakedown run, got up to temp, started stalling when coming to a stop and coasting/rolling at very low speeds.

    Plugged the EGR vauum line, car idles slightly better, does not stall at all and the jerkiness at part-throttle isnt as bad (still kinda bad tho...)
    So, new EGR position sensor, could that be the culprit here? Or is the egr diaphragm somehow "too loose" or something, and opening too much at low vacuum?

    Progress, feels like backwards progress, but progress anyways.

  2. #22
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    put a vac gauge on the line to the EGR and watch what it does. If it doesn't vary, but simply shows vacuum or no vacuum, the regulator isn't working right. I had a sticky one and fixed it with a bit of penetrating oil sprayed into the ports on the regulator.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

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    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #23
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    Welcome to the Party!!


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  4. #24
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    After a ~800km roadtrip, my temporary fix to the stalling issue didnt hold up. Even though my test run proved succesful, after driving ~300km with a few short stops, got to town, stalling started again. Did I get the engine hotter than usual? (haven't kept it at 70MPH+ earlier. Trying to figure out the causality here. Egr leak when a truly hot engine? even though the vac line isnt hooked up to it? TBH I should just splurge on new egr parts. Maybe check how the vacuum acts, as @gadget73 mentioned. And by regulator you mean the twin solenoids mounted on the valve cover? How is the egr vacuum supposed to act on these? Hot, cold, on idle and revving?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    put a vac gauge on the line to the EGR and watch what it does.
    Well, my regulator/solenoids are going absolutely haywire. At first vac was at zero, gave a teenyweeny bit of gas and and the gauge jumped right to 20inHg and sometimes wouldnt come down at all, except when I tapped the gas again.
    Every single time I gave it gas (barely touching the linkage) it would jump to 20inHg. Sometimes when I let off the gas the vac would slowly come down to about zero and jump right back to 20 and start coming down again.

    A small victory, but a victory nonetheless.

  6. #26
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah that doesn't sound right. Normally the max you get is about 8" of vacuum, and it should gradually increase to that as you give it throttle. Sounds like the regulator is sticky. It should live on the passenger side fender, but tracing the vacuum line will confirm. I know there are some solenoids on the valve cover and I don't remember what all of those do. When you find the EGR reg, pull the lid off, clean out any dirt and remains of the foam filter, and spray some lubricant down into the hole up top. If that doesn't do anything you may just need to replace it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #27
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    So here on the valve cover we these four solenoidy things, vacuum line on top goes to throttle body, line plugged with furniture screw goes to to EGR valve. Red, orange and one black thin vac lines connect to other thicker line back there, one tees off and goes to a hockey puck looking reservoir. Light green line goes to cruise control. Other thin black goes to warm air flap on the air cleaner.

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    One line comes to passenger side as thin and black, goes into this junction box looking thing with 2 connectors and 4 vac ports. From the upper 2 ports the lines go into this big ass thing with the yellow sticker and thick hoses going in and out.

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    "E1AE-9HH448-AA" -google comes up with a MAF for a newer crown vic...


    More random pictures! wtf is this USS Enterprise looking vacuum contraption below the MAP sensor.
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    So with the progress, I thoroughly hosed down the 3 forwardmost solenoids with wd40. the one with the tiny black cap had a reaaally crusty little filter element below the cap. Took it off. Next time I have time to dwell upon this mess I'll put everything back together and hope for a difference in whatever I did in the last post.
    I need part number or a name for those solenoids on the valve cover, if I ever wish to buy ones.

  8. #28
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    hm, not the same style EGR that the 86+ uses. I thought all the EEC-IV used that same arrangement. EGR vacuum and EGR vent solenoid maybe? That system works a little differently. Kishy would know, he's our local CFI guru.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  9. #29
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    Got the car back together, vacuum to the egr line is still off the rails. Next up is sourcing new/good solenoids from somewhere.
    Also found out the cruise control diaphragm mounted on the throttle body doesnt hold vacuum either. I removed it (for now) to simplify things and plugged the line.

    The throttle body / CFI unit is similar to kishy's:
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    Unlike kishy's lovely Country Squire, mine has that mess of hoses and that thing with the yellow label.
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    It seems that the twin solenoids above the MAP sensor are the "Thermactor Air Bypass & Diverter Solenoids" and the yellow-label mess is the "Thermactor" apparatus which is connected to the air pump system.

    So my car's EGR system (i think) consists of the valve, valve pos sensor, the 2 solenoids on valve cover and of course the ECM (which might know what it's doing).
    Last edited by Arquemann; 07-25-2019 at 09:38 AM.

  10. #30
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    Ah, fck, it wasn't a cruise control diaphragm, it was the throttle kicker...

  11. #31

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    The throttle kicker isnt supposed to hold vacuum except when the throttle is engaged. Its like a controlled vacuum leak when the throttle is closed to keep the engine from stalling when the throttle is snapped shut and when the engine is under load like when the ac is on.

    Also it looks like your tv grommet is held on by a zip tie. Better get that replaced before it completely falls off.

    Where is that “enterprise” looking thing located? I still have some pics from my 85 Ive been looking at for reference. I also have a shop manual somewhere.

    Also is it throwing any codes?


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  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
    Where is that “enterprise” looking thing located?
    On the passenger fender, just down from the MAP sensor.


    I gotta say, i'm getting a feeling that the EGR isn't the issue here. Looking at the vacuum behaviour, it seems uniform. If anyone has verified info about the egr behaviour with this kind of egr, please do link. Further driving with the egr hooked up or not, doesn't really change how it runs.

    It has to be an idle issue, rough idle, jerkiness at low throttle and decelerating. Fuel delivery, vacuum leak (still...) or else. These early injection cars are definitely not my forte, a carb i can understand and adjust stuff to cross off things.

    I'll check out the codes when I get the time and a quiet moment, engine light has stayed off as long as I've had this car.

  13. #33

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    Oh I bet you that thing is a check valve.

    As far as the egr is concerned it works the same as any other egr system. If stuck open itll cause rough idle. If stuck shut it can cause pinging while cruising.

    Check the tps throughout the entire range with a multimeter, in addition to running codes, checking fuel pressure and base timing.

    My 85 ran the best with the o2 sensor unplugged lol. But thats only because it runs off a predetermined table to prevent engine failure lol. But it did get rid of the rolling idle!


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  14. #34
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    The air injection diverter valve hose mess... yeah... 80s smog equipment. Don't miss it.

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  15. #35
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    since it doesn't change EGR connected or not, thats probably not it unless it never closes fully.

    Have you confirmed the timing is correct and stable?

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #36
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    Was gonna check codes today, didn't have the time. I had removed the battery for a while and reconnected it and went for a short ride to get properly warmed up and get fresh codes (whenever i get to those).
    New symptoms: when hot, idle in gear surges a little bit. Tapped the throttle when idling on park, it bogged really bad for a second and just barely got the idle back to the usual unevenness. Tapped the throttle again, bogged so hard it stalled.

    I swear I'll get the codes tomorrow.

  17. #37
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    For a half hour I fiddled with the self-test connectors as I just couldn't get the engine light blinking. I just gave up and tried the test light method, in the guide that @gadget73 kindly linked to this thread. Which worked excellent, so my engine lights broken?
    With that, I got the following results:

    KOEO code 31= PFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts.

    CM code 18= IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded.

    CM code 63= TPS circuit has intermittently failed below minimum 0.6 volts.

    For the PFE/EVP, aren't those pretty much the same thing? Of course there's the wiring too. But a new sensor eh?
    SPOUT wiring is a bit crappy, I'll have to go through it, but what is this IDM (Ignition Diagnostic Monitor)?
    For the TPS, just a new sensor or is there any point in trying to fix the old? (parts availability isn't so good in Finland)

  18. #38
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    31 is the egr position sensor. Depends what equipment the car has what the code represents but basically it means that it thinks the egr valve is too closed. Most likely the sensor is bad.

    63 means the TPS is bad or dying or has been bad or dying at some point since the last time the battery was out. This causes stalling and general running problems.

    18 could mean the 22k resistor that sits between the coil - and the ECM is bad. If you trace the wiring from the coil, a short distance away on the green wire (I think its the green, its on the terminal with 2 wires) you'll find a plastic blob molded over the wire. You should be able to measure 22k from one side of that to the other. If its bad, the computer doesn't know what the ignition timing is doing and it gets stupid.

    Its worth doing the engine running test too.


    BTW, the engine light means no oil pressure or the engine is overheating. It is not a computer light. That one is a "Check Engine" light, and is only found on 89+ models. I usually consider the red one to be the "replace engine" light because something very bad has happened if it comes on.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  19. #39
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    I had the battery disconnected yesterday and after that I went for a little cruise to get those codes fresh.
    I'll have to check that resistor, can the ECM's go bad just like that? Also the yellow wire on the spout connector is missing like 5cm of its insulation...
    As an uninitiated, what do you mean by "the engine running test"?

    So, on these older EEC-IV cars I can't read the codes by a blinking engine light? The guide didn't mention that...
    I'll go asking around the finnish stores for TPS and EGR sensors, we'll see. I might just go and order everything from rockauto after all.

  20. #40
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    The engine running test is the same test you did but with the engine running. Full warm up the engine before you do it. Also

    And yes no blinking check engine light until 89, with a sprinkled in in 87/88. They actually say “check engine” where the other cars have the optional check oil or low washer fluid light, at least on the Ford cars. Not sure about Merc or Lincoln.
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