Battery Terminal Bus Bar

[packman]

I realized after looking at the extra stuff I will be adding to the CV, that I might want to install a battery terminal bus bar for power distribution. Thinking of moving some of the cables from the starter solenoid to the bus bar. My problem is that I'm not electrically inclined; so I don't know how many amps I would need for the bus bar. Or if it's necessary to install one. Figured that since I have gone through 3 starter solenoids, I could take some of the load off of it. Good idea? Bad idea?

[sly]

There's no electrical load on the solenoid from the accessories. Only physical load from the wires. That's not usually an issue with those either. The problem comes with the fact that the lugs are sometimes shorter on newer solenoids. Adding a 100A fusebox for power distribution isn't a bad idea. The next question is what are you adding and what does each load require for power? Just run one short starter wire from the lug to your fusebox and start adding fuses. Something like this from amazon is what I'm using in my 93 because I ran out of room in the stock fuse box:
6-position fuse box
https://www.amazon.com/6-Way-Blade-L...dp/B00QMTAZ1W/

If you need more spots... 10-position
https://www.amazon.com/10-Way-Blade-...dp/B00QMULSUI/

Or if you prefer ring terminals instead of quick connects:
https://www.amazon.com/Blade-Block-I...dp/B078J6QHS3/

If you need relay positions too... try something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-ST...dp/B07MR64XK1/

[kishy]

I will focus mostly on the remark about taking the load off the relay, because I am not quite sure of the specifics to answer what you're asking. Edit: definitely got ninja'd. Oops.

There is no load on the relay except when it is engaged to power the starter. What you are proposing doing is electrically identical to the existing arrangement, but may be more visually pleasing and/or easier to work on.

Failure of the starter relay is caused first and foremost by an ungracefully aging starter motor and what you seek to do will have no impact on if or when it happens again.

[87gtVIC]

Here is another option...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4lfZvWhaCY


https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Mil...NsaWNrPXRydWU=



I picked up a set and intend to install it onto my car...eventually.

[IPreferDIY]

Here's an inelegant but functional approach that might work for some people. In my 2000 MGM, I have a whole bunch of 10 gauge wires (individually fused) running from the battery through the firewall for my stereo stuff. Each has a ring terminal on the end of the short lead from the fuse holder. I used a long bolt for the positive battery terminal and secured them on that. Since I was getting a lot of parasitic drain, I ended up securing the stereo wires on a separate bolt so I could easily unhook everything at once. I happened to have a brass-type hinge that measures 3" x 1" when folded. I drilled the end holes in the hinge and secured one end to the battery bolt. When I want to listen to music, the stereo wire bolt goes in the other hole and gets tightened down with a wing nut. There is some degree of insulation on the hinge from electrical tape and possibly some brush-on stuff. When I subsequently put my headlight relay harness in, I put the ring terminals for the power wires on the battery bolt where the hinge is secured. I think I have a pic on another computer that I never got around to posting elswhere, and I'll try to remember to post it.

[packman]

Okay, it would seem that the bus bar won't help except for aesthetics. I do have a Painless 7-Circuit fuse block that was supposed to go on Putter Project; which will most likely go on the CV; I guess that would be all I need. At the moment, I will be installing an electric fan, 6 gauges, tach, and whatever else I come across or want to install. Going to the battery would be the power cable for the fuse block and the cable coming off of the MSD 6AL. I made my own positive and negative battery cables from salvaged 0/1 gauge cable from my Dad's welding rig.

As far as the starter solenoid is concerned; I have a new engine and starter. The lopo that was in the CV spewed oil all over everything; including the starter. Perhaps that might have been a problem. It didn't start going through starter solenoids until the last 3 years of service.

[IPreferDIY]

... I think I have a pic on another computer that I never got around to posting elswhere, and I'll try to remember to post it.

Like I said, inelegant but functional (before the headlight relay harness; click to enlarge):

[sly]

Like I said, inelegant but functional (before the headlight relay harness; click to enlarge):

Still better than the rats-nest under the hood of my 93.

[86VickyLX]

Everyone seems to forget about the junction blocks under the dash on the vics and grand marquis. There's 2 of them. One for constant hot, and one for key on power. Some spots have been taken up already depending on what your options are. But if you can grab a few connectors from the junkyard, you can add to the extra pins. Green connector one is for key on power. Gray is for constant power.

[sly]

I've not heard of these things. I know about the ground blocks under the dash... but not the powers.