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2011 grand marquis lil faster

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    2011 grand marquis lil faster

    I wanted to add some power without a tune. Duel exhaust and a Tb spacer?

    #2
    Dual exhaust, yes.

    TB Spacer? Probably won’t see any returns worthwhile.


    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

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      #3
      Since it is a 2011, does it already have better intakes n stuff? What can be done along with duels while still not requiring a tune?

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        #4
        You can adapt a throttle body from an 05-10 mustang v6 (aftermarket 70mm) or a stock one from an 04-10 5.4 3v for a larger throttle body. But you will have to tap holes in the correct locations.

        Also gears and a p71 airbox if you dont already have one but you will need a tune due to the larger maf.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          #5
          Thanks for the info it's getting duals and thrush turbos today. So one other thing without a tune is a 70 mm tb?

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            #6
            I have a 75mm tb on my 02 gt without a tune. The increase (small) in airflow can be compensated in the stock tune.


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              #7
              You can also add:
              -Steeda under drive pullies
              -MSD ignition coils
              -Jmod
              -Aluminum Driveshaft

              http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...THIS-lt-PLEASE!!!!!!

              http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...Rock96Marquis)


              -ryan s.
              08 Lincoln Navigator L - 233k
              03 Mercury Marauder- 63k
              97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 194k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
              94 BMW 325i Convertible - 135k
              73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
              12 Mini Cooper S - 90k <---- Wifey's
              Originally posted by pantera77
              Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.

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                #8
                Its been proven that coils do nothing for the 4.6 and dont last nearly as long as motorcraft coils.


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                  #9
                  Yea, I'd stick with stock ignition on these. No need for "my spark disappeared" coils. If you want color then paint the COPS whatever color you want. For reference I've only replaced one coil so far, and replaced it with another Motorcraft one.

                  Definitely recommend the J-mod. On the 11's you shouldn't have to drill too many of the holes on the sep. plate. I j-modded my 03 Sport to the moderate settings back in 08 when I got it and at WOT it will still slip the belt on the 1-2 and 2-3 shift. Normal driving isn't neck-snapping but has a subtle bump. Since the wife drives it I didn't want anything crazy so it wouldn't get away in wet conditions.

                  Grab a factory dual exhaust setup and different rear gears as mentioned. Likely you have 2.73's out back now. Not sure if you can go to a 3.27 w/o a tune but could be worth a look.

                  Anything to make power beyond that on these cars is going to cost. Long tube headers, shorter gears, etc. Check out ADTR.net for some ideas. Stainless Works makes some nice headers but you're going to have to pay to play at that point.

                  Don't forget the suspension/brakes when upgrading power. Extra ponies aren't worth anything if you can't stop/control it. The brakes on these cars are adequate at best and the rear suspension setup is, well, meh... I upgraded to CHE upper and lower control arms for the rear axle and man what a difference. Along with PI spec shocks it really made a world of difference. It's much more planted now and I don't have the overwhelming fear that the a**end will swing out when cornering without pushing it too hard. There are other companies out there that make upgraded gear for the backend but for the money I like it. And I got to pick my color of powdercoat for the arms
                  These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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                    #10
                    That is some awesome info for my specific car. thanks fellas! The duals are on. Next I've got the pullies coming. I should feel a difference doing those two mods at once.

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                      #11
                      Woops, got the wrong pullies. Anyone have a part number?

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                        #12
                        Where did you order the pullies from? If it was ADTR then shoot Chris an email or call them and they should be able to help out.
                        These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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                          #13
                          $300 from adtr with arp Bolt and shipping lol.

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                            #14
                            The new pullies came in along with a message not to run the alternator pulley because of the direction of my alternator. And to run a different belt. We will see how it goes

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                              #15
                              So you got the Steeda pulleys and the ARP balancer bolt. Should be good to go. The only words of advice I have is make damn sure you have the keyway on the balancer lined up and engaged with the woodruff key in the crankshaft before you hammer the bolt in. Usually you can push the balancer on a bit by hand and then tap it with a deadblow hammer to be sure it's on the key. Once the balancer is on properly thread the new crank bolt in by HAND until you meet up with the face of the pulley. This will ensure you don't have any cross-threading issues in the crank, because that would suck.
                              These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

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