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Thread: Excessive cranking

  1. #21
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    you typically won't get any vacuum to the EGR unless you go for a drive. Try unhooking the green line at the EGR regulator and applying vacuum. If it doesn't hold, you've got leaks. The red line should also have manifold vacuum at the EGR reg. if you have vacuum and the lines don't leak, the EGR regulator is not working. You might be able to pop the "hat" off the end, clean the remains of the foam filter out, and shoot some wd40 through the regulator to get it working again. I had a sticky one and that fixed it.


    The cruise should have nothing to do with anything. Any chance the wiring to the IAC is damaged and moving the cruise cable is actually jostling the damaged wire around? I can't think of anything else that makes sense.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  2. #22

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    It has vacuum at the red line but not the green line. The workshop manual states to test that way thats why I tested it by snapping the throttle open. I could always put it in self test mode and test for vacuum again to verify.

    No I tried wiggling the iac wiring too but that had no effect.

    A quick google search showed a couple people had the same issues I have and it turned out to be the cruise control servo. I guess its worth a shot if I can get a good used one for cheap.


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  3. #23

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    Just tested it and yes its getting 2 inches of vacuum while in self test mode but only for a split second.

    Now heres one for the record books, no its not the cruise control servo as I removed that from the throttle linkage to isolate the issue and what I noticed is there is a constant electrical current running through the throttle linkage. When you move the linkage you can actually see the spark. Ill have to get a video later, Ive never seen anything like it. With that said it sounds like there is a ground issue somewhere.


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  4. #24
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    what I mean is to connect your vacuum pump to the green line at the EGR regulator end and see if it will hold vacuum. I suspect you'll find it does not, and thats why the code 33 comes up. If the valve is good, usually when it doesn't work its a leak in the line between the valve and the reg, or the reg is shot.



    there should be nothing live at the throttle body. Check the cable from battery - to engine, and the ground strap that should be at the tail of the trans to the body.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #25

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    I see, I was following advice from a google search but Ill try it that way too thanks.

    Im thinking its the block ground, I wonder if anything else is live. Thats pretty wierd isnt it?


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  6. #26
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    there has to be connection from the engine to body too. Thats the strap at the trans end. Just connecting to the battery won't give good ground to the rest of the stuff in the car. A battery to body cable will help but the engine, battery, and body all need to be well connected otherwise you get goofy stuff happening.

    also worth checking, there is an orange wire that is supposed to connect to a bolt at the rear of the lower intake. Thats the engine block sensor ground wire to the ECM. It often breaks off, so see if there is a wire back there that doesn't connect to anything. It comes out of the oxygen sensor wiring harness.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #27

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    Ill take a look. I dont remember seeing either of those that you mentioned. Both, the o2 sensor harness and salt and pepper shakers, I got from a fox mustang. Its pinned the same but maybe that could be the issue.


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  8. #28
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Dumb thought, but is there excessive play in the throttle plate shaft?

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
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  9. #29

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    I dont think so but Ill check again tomorrow.


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  10. #30
    Member EaOutlaw1969's Avatar
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    You have a old car that I suspect has more than one problem, First thing I would do is recheck all the basics.
    First and foremost I would check is the amount of slop in the timing chain, turn the engine over by hand until your engine is at #1 TDC of the compression stroke confirmed with a screw driver on the top of the piston and make sure the timing marks line up, with the distributor cap off rotate the engine backwards slowly until you just see the rotor button start to move then stop rotating the engine. The amount of slop you have in the chain and gears will show on the timing marks. I think anything over 5 degrees slop would suggest a new chain and gear set is in order
    You could also test this with a timing light and the spout connector disconnected if the timing mark is bouncing around a lot it would be worth it to do the above manual test method.

    If the timing chain is good I would do a complete compression test on all the cylinders.

    If the compression and timing chain is good I would do a power balance test on each cylinder at idle and off idle to see if any one or more cylinder is out performing another either from leaking injectors or bad parts in the ignition system or vacuum leaks that could effect the suspect cylinders .

    I will say in the past I have found many egr valves that would get a week spring allowing them to open before it was supposed to, if this is combined with someone messing around with a throttle stop screw to ( raise the idle to compensate for other issues ) it could lead to chasing your tail.

    I watched the video you posted on line and it was very hard to determine anything form it other than it seems to have a dead miss which is one reason I suggested to check the timing chain and compression then a power balance test.
    2007 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport

  11. #31

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    Since I didnt have much time I decided to check the grounds, plug wires and coil. The coil has a bare spot, which I shocked myself on lol. Someone used electrical tape so I took it off to inspect the area but theres still a lot of goop from it that hid the bare spot. The plug wires are good though cylinders 1-4 were touching the valve cover near the oil filler neck but that was fixed but didnt help so I moved on to the ground locations. A while ago when I installed the efi intake again I had the fuel injection harness ground attached to the lower intake like its supposed to but I moved it on a whim later because it looked like it made better contact at the throttle bracket. It made sense that it would also be a ground point but I guess its not. I took it off today and took a piece of wire and wired it straight to the battery ground terminal temporarily and no more sparks lol. It also made the surge while sitting at a red light go away and the issue where if I changed throttle positions too quickly it would bog or stall is gone too. Its crazy how such a small thing can have such a huge impact. It still isnt silky smooth at idle but the driveability is so much better. When I have time Ill go over the basics, thanks Outlaw for that suggestion. And Wolf, no there was no slack in the throttle plate, though it is a moot point now I still wanted to respond to you lol.

    Bottom line is check your grounds people, a bad one could cause strange issues.

    https://youtu.be/zdqcGoyb1Ms


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  12. #32
    Member EaOutlaw1969's Avatar
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    I remember working on these cars when they were new and it was hard enough then and like any car that gets old the work gets harder because of previous work and neglected maintenance. Glad you found the big problem that was haunting you.
    2007 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport

  13. #33

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    Thanks. It was my own stupidity that caused this one lol. I switched everything back over to efi and had to source everything pretty much from ebay. Some stuff I didnt even know I was missing... but its pretty much there just some odds and ends. And on top of that there are regular maintenance items that need to be replaced along the way.


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  14. #34
    Member EaOutlaw1969's Avatar
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    Do not feel too bad I have seen worse.
    Years ago I had a customer that spent 3 months and countless money hanging parts on his Oldsmobile after replacing a supposedly worn camshaft and could never get it running right.

    After spending a hour running complete diagnostic tests on our Sun MCS 4000 I found that he somehow installed a 6 cylinder HEI distributor with a 8 cylinder cap and stuffed it in his Olds 350 V8. The amazing thing is that it started up and ran but only on 6 cylinders. LOL

    The sad part is the distributor is the first part he hung on it while tossing parts at the car trying to fix the original misfire. The cause of his original misfire was a broken vacuum accumulator. He vowed to never ever touch his car again.
    2007 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport

  15. #35

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    Oh geez, at least he didnt give up. Its sad seeing people getting rid of cars because theyre tired of chasing stupid little issues. That happened to me when I had a 98 p71. It was always something little though it never cost me much and never left me stranded. I rebuilt the entire front suspension chasing a sloppy steering wheel only to sell it afterwards granted it did go to someone who really needed a car. I miss that car though. One day Ill get another p71 but Ive got too much on my plate right now lol.


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