Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Oil in Plug/Oil Well

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Oil in Plug/Oil Well

    Can oil leak into the plug/coil well from any other source than the valve cover(s)? If I replace the VC gaskets; would it be worth my time to swap in aftermarket aluminum valve covers? I have a plug well that is completely filled with oil; rear driver side plug well. I’m gonna replace the VC gasket, but the long term fix may be the valve cover itself. We’ll see how it goes for the next few months

    #2
    This is common with the 2v, its actually coolant. Does your car sit a lot?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Comment


      #3
      No; I commute 70-80 miles per day. It only sits for repairs and maintenance. It’s a 2005 MGM that I got 3.5 years ago with only 70k on the odometer.

      Another question: does anybody have tips on removing stubborn spark plugs? I have a 3/8 ratchet and it’s not moving at all; despite having soaked in oil for whatever period of time.

      Comment


        #4
        I replaced the coils and plugs. 3 of the 4 drivers side plugs had liquid; the front plug was dry. All passenger side plugs were dry. I noticed a little/tiny bubbling action at the rear of the intake manifold. I’m gonna guess I need intake gaskets. That will be for another time; I may go and torque all of the intake bolts to spec next weekend

        Comment


          #5
          Sounds about right. Ive had that happen on my 02 gt as well but it sits so I havent done anything about it. Youll probably need new intake gaskets though. Hopefully retorquing them works though.


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

          Comment


            #6
            For getting stubborn plugs out... Tighten them a hair if you can... then try backing off. Also, you will need to go back and forth as you go once you do get it to start moving. May have to lubricate immediately upon breaking it free. Breaker bar may be needed (loosen only), but only to break it loose. Don't use the breaker to un-thread it as you'll gall the threads (this is the reason for the back and forth on the way out). And good luck.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks SLY. My Dad suggested I use the dying electric impact I have. It is quite weak, but is good for these jobs. I used that and had no problems getting them released. I used Never-Sieze on the new plugs despite a lot of people saying not to. I did this because I was told a while back, to use that for spark plugs in aluminum heads. I will probably replace the intake manifold when I do the gasket. Might as well if I got it all apart anyways.

              Picture is of the coolant-filled plug hole. I discovered that some holes on the passenger were dry, but had a film of dirt in them. I think that was what was mixing with the coolant on the driver-side holes; which initially made me believe it was oil. Valve cover flanges look dry.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0808.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	83.4 KB
ID:	1285953

              Comment


                #8
                Yes. Never-seize on plugs in aluminum heads or you may have to DRILL them out after the next 100K. Torque to the top end of the spec too. I think it was something like 15 or 17 ft-lbs?

                Which reminds me... I need to check the torque on my wife's car's intake manifold. Had to re-torque it last year because everything had backed off (or the gaskets squished) and the bolts were finger tight at best. Need to re-torque those to make sure no crap running on the child chariot.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I believe its 11-15 ft/lbs so most shoot for 13. 15 is about the limit Id go. Im assuming that the 05s had 8 thread heads so it shouldnt be an issue like the earlier heads but Id still be weary since it is aluminum after all.


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yeah. I usually go for 15 since that's near the bottom end of my click stick.

                    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                    Originally posted by dmccaig
                    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Torque spark plugs? Never thought of that, lol.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Aluminum heads with barely any thread engagement. You want to be careful otherwise you end up with self-ejecting spark plugs. There is a fix, basically a fancy heli-coil, but the idea of drilling and tapping the cylinder head with it on the engine gives me the willies. Nothing I know about engines tells me that dumping metal chips into a cylinder is a good idea.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                          Aluminum heads with barely any thread engagement. You want to be careful otherwise you end up with self-ejecting spark plugs. There is a fix, basically a fancy heli-coil, but the idea of drilling and tapping the cylinder head with it on the engine gives me the willies. Nothing I know about engines tells me that dumping metal chips into a cylinder is a good idea.
                          Yeah had to get one time-serted in my '98. Ran fine for another 7 years after that before it got robbed of it's front end and crushed. Broke my heart.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Since I swapped the plugs and coils, the MGM runs smoother (understandably) and quieter; especially on the highway. Can't figure that out, but don't care either. Before I put it all back together, I cleaned the throttle body out because it had a dark film in the bore and blade. Now it idles fast on a cold start for a few seconds and then settles down. Hot starts are normal. Was I supposed to clean the throttle body? Or is the fast initial idle normal for these cars?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I would think just wiping the inside of the TB and plate with a rag to the extent that you can would be fine. If there's a little hole in the plate, make sure the gunk didn't get pushed into it. Dunno what counts as normal startup from cold, but something to try for the idle is changing the PCV valve if it's gone over 100,000 miles. I read something once about the importance of changing them on schedule even if they seem okay. When I did mine, it made a difference in the engine finding its idle speed after a cold start.

                              2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                              mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X