PotM GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters Forum Index PotM
GMN Chat Room GMN's STORE!! GMN's Gallery Please!!
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Rear air suspension operating logic - 2007 Town Car

  1. #1
    Full-size Ford/Lincoln addict RyPow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Guelph, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    434

    Default Rear air suspension operating logic - 2007 Town Car

    Just looking to confirm some of the operating logic of the RAS system on my 2007 TC.

    Venting (lowering) and filling (raising) are both accomplished at the compressor assembly under the hood, correct? Just a matter of whether the vent solenoid or the compressor motor is energized? The air bag solenoids open during both tasks, they function exactly the same whether the suspension is raising or lowering?

    I am beginning to suspect that my newfound '07 has a lazy compressor, leaky air line from the compressor to the bags, or the controller is bad and not opening the bag solenoids during a fill. The solenoids and bags are definitely OK, the car maintains height perfectly when parked for days and the ~1in drop after turning off the engine and opening/closing door works as it should. However, when filling, the compressor runs on and on, sometimes tripping the Check Air Suspension message. The ride height does appear to sustain in the long term, which means the filling is half-a$$ed working. My old '02 MGM, which was a very low-mileage vehicle, only took about 10 seconds to raise the car.
    RyPow
    1987 LTD Crown Victoria LX sedan - The "Sand Box" - 73K, towing package
    1987 LTD Crown Victoria LX Tutone Tudor - '96 Explorer 5.0 + 5spd swap in the works
    1985 Lincoln Town Car Cartier - previously owned by "navguy12" from thelincolnforum.net
    2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited, 102k, daily driver
    1977 Lincoln Continental Town Car, 42k
    2012 F-150 5.0L 4x4, HD payload pkg (towing/hauling)
    2006 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, 115k, for sale
    2015 Toyota RAV4 XLE AWD (better half's)

  2. #2
    I post a lot...
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Yonkers NY
    Posts
    3,964

    Default

    I think you logic is correct.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17

  3. #3
    No mean-spiritedness here. IPreferDIY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,799

    Default

    Nice score otherwise. I can only agree with jaywish at this point. The post-driving period is about an hour, and it will even raise itself during that period if the conditions are right. Sitting for days without droppage certainly rules out leaks at the air springs. I guess soapy water would be the ideal choice for chasing down a line leak. If you want to buy time and don't expect heavy loads, you can turn the system off for awhile. It should be able to go for weeks without droppage in the absence of leaks at the air springs.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  4. #4
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    38,047

    Default

    You understand how it works.

    Often when it doesn't fill, its leaky air lines or a weak compressor. The soapy water around the connection points test will tell for sure. If its got a big leak at any of the air line connections or between the compressor and the drier it will not pump up effectively. If it doesn't leak and still doesn't go, its probably the pump.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #5
    Full-size Ford/Lincoln addict RyPow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Guelph, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    434

    Default

    Thanks guys, I agree that the soapy water test on all connections is the best way to proceed. I'll update in the next few days.
    RyPow
    1987 LTD Crown Victoria LX sedan - The "Sand Box" - 73K, towing package
    1987 LTD Crown Victoria LX Tutone Tudor - '96 Explorer 5.0 + 5spd swap in the works
    1985 Lincoln Town Car Cartier - previously owned by "navguy12" from thelincolnforum.net
    2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited, 102k, daily driver
    1977 Lincoln Continental Town Car, 42k
    2012 F-150 5.0L 4x4, HD payload pkg (towing/hauling)
    2006 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, 115k, for sale
    2015 Toyota RAV4 XLE AWD (better half's)

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
GMN Approved Links!


www.rockauto.com www.adtr.net