(1985 MGM 302CFI EEC-IV, non-regulator -type EGR)
In my quest to find out what the everloving fck is wrong with my engine,
I thought of somehow stopping the ECM from adjusting. There has to be some kind of base map on which basis the ECM adjusts to achieve the stoichiometric ratio and ideal consumption. With variables like the air pump system, EGR and many others, I have a feeling that something might've gone bad in a way that makes the adjust itself in a stupid way and still thinking it's running right. I.E. the damn jerkyness at cruising and low throttle.
What to do if something resembling a base map can be achieved? BMW's have the AlphaN mode when without MAF(s), of course a CFI doesn't have a MAF and unplugging the SPOUT just stops timing advance.
I'd also like to check my camshaft to verify that my problem isn't in the engine itself. And I'd rather not yank the cam out, since that's alot of work for possibly nothing. Can I just measure lift with a dial indicator at the rocker arm/ pushrod? These things do have hydraulic lifters, how does that affect the results? Also I don't know if the engine is roller of flat tappet ('85 model), but that shouldn't change anything. What would a collapsed lifter do?
I bet one of you can link me a sheet of correct lift values and how to check lift at the valvetrain, I'm just wondering about the effect of the hydraulic lifters. And if obvious discrepancy is found, can it be attributed to the lifters, worn cam lobe or even a bent pushrod, in any case the intake has to come off to examine all the previously mentioned components (still less work than removing the cam altogether.
(I want to check the cam because the jerkyness I've experienced from the beginning has definitely become worse over the summer and it is now present at higher cruising speeds than before and at low-speed-low-acceleration. Every time since the beginning of time, a healthy dose of the right pedal has the car running smooth and seemingly healthy.)
What about the cam position sensor and what happens when it goes bad?
I'll also drop the gas tank just to absolutely sure there isn't a damn drop of water in there, since the car always runs better with more throttle.
I don't recall seeing a drain plug, it's going to weigh a wee bit. What to detach? Level sender wires, pump connector, how are the lines connected to the plate? is it on the side of tank like some Ive seen or just on the top? Line out, return and some sort of vapor vents? Are the lines loose and long enough to have the tank on the ground until I remove them? Two straps seemed to hold it in place, remove it from front to back or vice versa?
In my quest to find out what the everloving fck is wrong with my engine,
I thought of somehow stopping the ECM from adjusting. There has to be some kind of base map on which basis the ECM adjusts to achieve the stoichiometric ratio and ideal consumption. With variables like the air pump system, EGR and many others, I have a feeling that something might've gone bad in a way that makes the adjust itself in a stupid way and still thinking it's running right. I.E. the damn jerkyness at cruising and low throttle.
What to do if something resembling a base map can be achieved? BMW's have the AlphaN mode when without MAF(s), of course a CFI doesn't have a MAF and unplugging the SPOUT just stops timing advance.
I'd also like to check my camshaft to verify that my problem isn't in the engine itself. And I'd rather not yank the cam out, since that's alot of work for possibly nothing. Can I just measure lift with a dial indicator at the rocker arm/ pushrod? These things do have hydraulic lifters, how does that affect the results? Also I don't know if the engine is roller of flat tappet ('85 model), but that shouldn't change anything. What would a collapsed lifter do?
I bet one of you can link me a sheet of correct lift values and how to check lift at the valvetrain, I'm just wondering about the effect of the hydraulic lifters. And if obvious discrepancy is found, can it be attributed to the lifters, worn cam lobe or even a bent pushrod, in any case the intake has to come off to examine all the previously mentioned components (still less work than removing the cam altogether.
(I want to check the cam because the jerkyness I've experienced from the beginning has definitely become worse over the summer and it is now present at higher cruising speeds than before and at low-speed-low-acceleration. Every time since the beginning of time, a healthy dose of the right pedal has the car running smooth and seemingly healthy.)
What about the cam position sensor and what happens when it goes bad?
I'll also drop the gas tank just to absolutely sure there isn't a damn drop of water in there, since the car always runs better with more throttle.
I don't recall seeing a drain plug, it's going to weigh a wee bit. What to detach? Level sender wires, pump connector, how are the lines connected to the plate? is it on the side of tank like some Ive seen or just on the top? Line out, return and some sort of vapor vents? Are the lines loose and long enough to have the tank on the ground until I remove them? Two straps seemed to hold it in place, remove it from front to back or vice versa?
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