351W Build

[Lazerbeans]

The program is called Camquest and according to Comp Cam's website is currently down for maintenance and updating. Sorry I didn't realize.

[gadget73]

Intake to core, core to water pump. Restriction needs to be on the side coming from the intake. If the thread size didn't change, I don't see why that part wouldn't get the job done.

[87gtVIC]

That is a trick looking piece. Keep the little bit of excess pressure in the engine and not in your hose as compared to the more traditional restrictors.

[Brown_Muscle]

Thanks guys

Another technical question: Engine Oil Cooler. I have the stock one but a lot of sources online say they can do more harm than good on a street car. With todays synthetic oils it makes it even less necessary. It's cool to have, but also a fail/leak point. Should I delete it?

[sly]

If you get your engine up to temp when driving around and do the occasional 20+ minute romps after warming up to burn off any condensation that's built up, then you shouldn't have any issues. Doing a quick run somewhere that takes about 15 minutes to get there and not staying long enough for the engine to cool off and driving home will also probably be enough. It only really comes into play when your normal drive is under 10 minutes as there's not really enough time to get up to temp properly, oil cooler or not.

[gadget73]

compromise thought

https://www.shop.perma-cool.com/1071...Ports-1071.htm

[sly]

compromise thought

https://www.shop.perma-cool.com/1071...Ports-1071.htm

ooOOOoo

Nice.

[Brown_Muscle]

That’s not a bad idea! I’m not sure how I feel about adding another thing that could potentially fail.. I’ll have to think on it

A couple other thoughts- some sort of WOT A/C cutout seems a good idea. I’d like a switch that simply used a low vacuum signal to open the circuit, but I can’t seem to find something like that... EDIT: check this out: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-...pid=1322982828 or this

https://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/CMP3766B/10002/-1

Perhaps with a vacuum delay valve? Seems simple and effective. 6” of vacuum seems okay to me for a cutout

Also how will the other accessories be at the higher RPM? Probably ok since it’s only 5500rpm. It’s kind of funny, I started it up yesterday after installing the 3G to test it, and the original idler pulley started squeaking for the first time ever... good reminder I should replace it!

[gadget73]

I used one of these in the Continental for that purpose

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-Vacuum...sAAOSwfkNfKuRi

no manifold vac, the only thing it really does is keep the AC from being engaged before the engine is running and making the vacuum pump rotate. The original switch was bad and this got the job done. Probably about the same thing as the other switch, just half the price.

[Brown_Muscle]

I used one of these in the Continental for that purpose

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-Vacuum...sAAOSwfkNfKuRi

no manifold vac, the only thing it really does is keep the AC from being engaged before the engine is running and making the vacuum pump rotate. The original switch was bad and this got the job done. Probably about the same thing as the other switch, just half the price.

That's even better, way more adjustability. I figure I'll see what vacuum i pull at 1/2-3/4 throttle and set it to disengage around then

[Brown_Muscle]

Bigger transmission cooler: https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...00C3F3SO&psc=1

Is it worth it? Current one is 11x4"

[sly]

I'm running an even larger one (24 plate) on my 93. Towing 3500# at 70mph, return temps only ever got up to 160F or so. This is cooled fluid, so it's in a good range. Anything under 210 on the return is ok, but under 180 is better if I understand the aspects of cooling correctly. Since I still go through the radiator's little cooler first, I know the temps are still getting above 210 to get rid of any condensation as every time I've checked the fluid, and when I swapped in the j-modded valve body, the fluid was in great shape with no milk or burn to it. That cooler should suit your build fine, though don't be afraid to go bigger if you want. The cooler I use is actually specced for an E350 if I remember correctly.

[packman]

Mine is fairly large; it was the only one with -AN fittings welded onto it.

[gadget73]

Are you still running a lockup converter? Non-locking makes more heat, so bigger cooler would be more important there.

[Brown_Muscle]

Well I won't be towing, but might autocross once or twice- the converter is still lockup thankfully. They do sell multiple sizes in different steps, I just wasnt sure if the stock one would still be sufficient

[sly]

Anything between half that size to that size should work fine for you then. No need to get the big mama that I have.

[gadget73]

if you really want to know, measure the fluid temp. Even just a very half-ass temp rig using a multimeter temp probe stuffed down the dipstick tube would give you something to work from.