The program is called Camquest and according to Comp Cam's website is currently down for maintenance and updating. Sorry I didn't realize.
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The program is called Camquest and according to Comp Cam's website is currently down for maintenance and updating. Sorry I didn't realize.
Internal combustion of all types is a mechanical symphony, but it is the primordial roar of a V-8 that stirs a man's savage soul.
Intake to core, core to water pump. Restriction needs to be on the side coming from the intake. If the thread size didn't change, I don't see why that part wouldn't get the job done.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
That is a trick looking piece. Keep the little bit of excess pressure in the engine and not in your hose as compared to the more traditional restrictors.
Thanks guys
Another technical question: Engine Oil Cooler. I have the stock one but a lot of sources online say they can do more harm than good on a street car. With todays synthetic oils it makes it even less necessary. It's cool to have, but also a fail/leak point. Should I delete it?
-Phil
+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. 351w, GT40 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, Baumann Shift kit.
If you get your engine up to temp when driving around and do the occasional 20+ minute romps after warming up to burn off any condensation that's built up, then you shouldn't have any issues. Doing a quick run somewhere that takes about 15 minutes to get there and not staying long enough for the engine to cool off and driving home will also probably be enough. It only really comes into play when your normal drive is under 10 minutes as there's not really enough time to get up to temp properly, oil cooler or not.
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Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally Posted by gadget73
Originally Posted by dmccaig
compromise thought
https://www.shop.perma-cool.com/1071...Ports-1071.htm
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
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Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally Posted by gadget73
Originally Posted by dmccaig
That’s not a bad idea! I’m not sure how I feel about adding another thing that could potentially fail.. I’ll have to think on it
A couple other thoughts- some sort of WOT A/C cutout seems a good idea. I’d like a switch that simply used a low vacuum signal to open the circuit, but I can’t seem to find something like that... EDIT: check this out: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-...pid=1322982828 or this
https://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/CMP3766B/10002/-1
Perhaps with a vacuum delay valve? Seems simple and effective. 6” of vacuum seems okay to me for a cutout
Also how will the other accessories be at the higher RPM? Probably ok since it’s only 5500rpm. It’s kind of funny, I started it up yesterday after installing the 3G to test it, and the original idler pulley started squeaking for the first time ever... good reminder I should replace it!
Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 02-28-2021 at 12:03 PM.
-Phil
+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. 351w, GT40 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, Baumann Shift kit.
I used one of these in the Continental for that purpose
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-Vacuum...sAAOSwfkNfKuRi
no manifold vac, the only thing it really does is keep the AC from being engaged before the engine is running and making the vacuum pump rotate. The original switch was bad and this got the job done. Probably about the same thing as the other switch, just half the price.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
-Phil
+1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. 351w, GT40 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, Baumann Shift kit.