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Thread: Refurbishing Factory Premium Sound

  1. #21
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    Alright, so I got a new deck from WagonMan and I have run into a few snags.
    It won't stay in Radio mode unless I hold the "Eject" button in, otherwise it runs in Cassette Play mode
    Possible contributing factor? There is a Orange/Blue trace wire that was hanging, not attached to a connector. Both factory plugs had all of the correct wires EXCEPT for the small 4 pin connector which had an empty socket connected to the radio Orange/Blue wire.

    No sound from speakers, I replaced the Front Right door speaker and plugged it back into the stock harness but it was not a confidence inspiring connection, felt a little looser than I would like.
    I have uncovered the factory Premium Sound Amp and no wires are cut, it is all still plugged in.

    How can I best test the Factory Amp and then how can I verify the connection to the new speaker?
    Any tips on the Cassette deck eject/radio shenanigans?


    Thanks!

  2. #22
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    Sounds like the eject mechanism got a little jacked in shipment. There's a switch in the moment of the rack that triggers "tape mode" and it sounds like something is not releasing it. Like a return spring broke or something.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
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  3. #23
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    Any idea if people have fixed these before?

  4. #24
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    This is the 86 stereo with the 4 memory presets ? I found my service lit I can scan for you if you're up for exploring. Elsewise I can probably fix it. The power amp you need the wiring diagram for. They're not real complex to test, but ideally you want to connect it to the stereo to check the whole thing as a unit. It can be driven from another source, but basically it needs to be something that can drive a speaker directly. Not too much to them though, common ground, left +, right + input. Power, ground, and a mute wire that gets +12v when the radio is on. Output is a + and - for each speaker. if its the 4 channel model, just double the ins and outs. The amp is literally just double the component count to get 4 channels vs 2.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #25
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    If you could scan those that would be great! I replaced the belts already so I can't imagine the deck mechanism is much deeper in it.

    Here is a picture of my amp, not sure how to tell the 2 vs 4 channel. But the number of wires would suggest 2 channel
    Click image for larger version. 

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    For future users who are searching I used turntableneedles.com for ordering the belts, I used a 6.0 and a 10.0 inch square section belts, 1.2mm thick. The long one is a little too thick so you may have to bend some of the guide tabs around the pulleys to clear.

  6. #26
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    can't tell but the 2 channel should have 10 wires I think, and the 4 channel has 16. I think I can scan the wiring diagram for that.

    manual for just the radio is 70 pages. I'll get the mechanical assembly diagram. Hopefully that will help some, but likely its an issue with the switch on the tape mech that flips it from tuner to tape. Not sure precisely whre that is mounted without looking inside but it appears to have 2 purple wires, a red, and a green going to it. It should flip position depending on tape in or out. My guess is either its not in position, or whatever pushes it isn't moving quite as far as it should. Might be tweaked or just stuck from old lube.

    can't do the whole thing, someone at work will surely pitch a fit if I'm spending too long scanning in obviously not-work stuff.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #27
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    The mech assembly diagram would be perfect.
    I am assuming the eject button is supposed to "latch" in when pushed? Mine currently does not so my guess is that something is out of alignment, It does eject tapes, and will switch to radio mode, I just have to hold the eject button.


    Thanks!

  8. #28
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    PM me your email address. I can't upload the scans here. They're all in PDF format.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  9. #29
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    Update, got the cassette mechanisms switched, but to fully test everyting I need to get the Orange/LB wire back in the plug. Does anyone know or have a source for the kinds of pins/contacts used in the radio plug?
    LMR doesn't have them, if someone knows the type I can just get them from Digikey or Mouser

  10. #30
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    clipsandfasteners has those terminals. I have an assortment of different types on hand. They need the proper type of crimp tool though, the kind that puts that M shaped crimp like the OE terminals are. Standard crimpers won't work right.


    https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/O-...search=%20Ford

    should be either mini block or blade.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  11. #31
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    Awesome! I can use the crimpers at work to do it at lunch.

    Next question, the wiring has me stumped, I thought I had it figures out but I can't figure out what is original and what is added by the PO.
    I have 3 plugs coming out at the radio hole,:
    12 pin connector is for the speakers, all good there, no hackery
    First 4 pin connector, has 3 pins filled, one of them is the Y/Bk keyed power wire and splits into 2 wires 8" further back into the dash via a bullet connector Y thing.
    Second 4 pin connector, comes out of the dash from the glovebox side and was the one that was spliced into by the PO.

    Does anyone have a picture of what the wiring is supposed to be back there in an '86? The factory wiring diagrams are a bit inconsistent and don't show the physical harness very well.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks!
    Last edited by kellen302; 01-30-2020 at 10:52 PM.

  12. #32
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    The weird bullet connector thing is for either the optional CB or the optional cell phone. Or maybe it went from being one to the other, but either way its factory.

    from my 86 Towncar EVTM, the 12 pin connector is all speakers. Should be C356 if it tracks with the Lincoln stuff
    The other connector is C342
    orange/light blue is remote trigger to the premium sound amp
    light green/yellow constant hot from fuse 8
    light blue / red is dash lighting
    yellow/black is key-on hot


    there isn't a third plug, so not sure what you've got there, unless thats perhaps for the power antenna switch? That has a yellow/black, a red/pink. and a dark green / yellow

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #33
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    Alright, Figured I would go ahead and make a guide on the teardown and replacement of belts, or the cassette mechanism.

    This is for the 4 button Premium/Electronic radio in 1986, presumably similar for other years.
    This assumes you already have the radio out and sitting on a table. Do not try this in the car because you will lose tiny screws.
    You will need:
    Nut drivers in these sizes:
    1/4in
    3/16in
    5/32in (swapping decks only)
    1/8in (Optional)
    10mm (swapping decks only) Can also be wrench

    Picks of various configurations, the little dentist like ones.
    Tiny needle nose pliers, (swapping decks only)
    Tiny cutters/flush cuts (swapping decks only)


    Remove all of the case screws with the 1/4in nut driver. All sides

    Remove the 2 screws holding the faceplate on at the sides with the 3/16 driver.

    Pull off all of the rotating knobs on the front, including the scan/Band knobs

    Carefully remove the faceplate first, then the top and bottom covers.

    If you are just replacing belts, this is your final step, flip the unit over and take a picture of the belt arrangement. Now pull the belts off and clean the pulley faces with an alcohol soaked Q tip. They may not look dirty but they are.
    Slip the new belts on with the picks making sure they do not get twisted. You may have to bend some of the guide tabs out a little bit if you used the 1.2mm thick belt for the long one, don't pry against the pulleys.
    Put it back together if you are not swapping the decks.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    If you are swapping the decks, go ahead and get yourself a beverage.

    With the radio upside down. Look at the front and remove the 2 nuts that hold the deck structure to the main frame with a 10mm wrench, these nuts go on the potentiometers for balance/fade/vol.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looking at the bottom where the drive pulleys are, towards the back you will see a bundle of wires zip tied to the frame. Cut this zip tie.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You will now see a tab/slot arrangement. Pry the tab away from the tape mechanism until it releases the tape mechanism.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Start taking pictures, the wire routing is small and fiddly but can be done. All of these wires have a plug and pin at one end or the other, no soldering required unless you break a connection.
    Small pliers are key for pulling the plugs, the black plugs were tougher on mine and prying between the board and the plug with a 90 pick worked well. Stick the point between the pins and twist the handle to pop the connector up.
    Make sure to pay attention to the orientation of the plugs as they are not keyed.

    Looking at the drive pulley side. Unplug the grey multi conductor cable in the grey sheath that you just un-zip tied.

    Un plug the White single wire going to the main board

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Unplug the Orange/Black/Tan triple connector to the main board

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Unplug the Red/Blue/Purple triple connector to the main board

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Unplug the Purple/Green double connector on the cassette mechanism right behind the side buttons (left side looking at the front when the radio is upside down)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Follow the single Purple wire underneath that double connector to the underside board.


    Follow the long Red/Green double wire underneath as well and unplug it.

    You should be able to carefully lift the deck up and out now. You may have to go forward first to get over the potentiometer knobs.


    The 2 smallest driver sizes are for separating the button panel from the tape mechanism, this may be necessary if you can't get it over the knobs as a unit.



    Put it back together in the reverse of removal, I mean it, this was the easiest order to do the plugs in.


    Go get a stiffer drink than you started with.

  14. #34
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    Looks like the same picture was uploaded several times. If the correct pictures are uploaded, one of the mods can probably fix the post.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  15. #35
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    I highlighted different areas of the pictures to show the different plugs. A bit easier to understand than having 6 steps on one image

  16. #36
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    After some poking around with the multimeter I have determined the plug that goes to the back of the radio. So that is the one I need to put the Orange/Blue wire into for the Amp 12V sense/trigger.
    However, I checked for power at the amp and I am getting neither keyed power or Battery power. The keyed power should be coming from one of the plugs near the back of the radio according to the diagrams.
    If anyone has a picture of what connectors are behind the stock Premium Sound Electronic radio that would be great! Not necessarily plugged into the radio, just around it.
    I think I am missing one and the wires were shuffled around.
    I think it goes just up and to the right of the radio.

    As a side note, the 4 channel amp only came with the Non Electronic conventional radio/Premium sound package. The 2 channel amp only came with the electronic radio premium sound package. This is consistent with the Fox Bodies of similar year.
    Last edited by kellen302; 02-04-2020 at 09:41 PM.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by kellen302 View Post
    I highlighted different areas of the pictures to show the different plugs. A bit easier to understand than having 6 steps on one image
    Now I see it. I was missing the red squares. Kinda blended in with the rest of it at first glance.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  18. #38
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    Alright, if anyone has been following my rambling I have figured out what I am missing in my harness. There is a small jumper harness from C1101 to C1101A (Radio connector) this jumper is where the Orange/LB wire comes in, and where the split to send keyed power to the amp is. The picture attached is my (poorly drawn) diagram. The EVTM and FSM show all of these connections but some are spread throughout sections. For example, the radio illumination wire is shown on the dash lights diagram, but not the radio wiring diagram.
    The Diagram I have attached is only for the 4 pin power connector on the radio (C1101A)
    I need to get another male 4 pin connector and pin these wires back in. The PO left the female side plugged in and this is what they hacked into for radio power to bypass the amp.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #39
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    Here is the terminal I have, and found in the same harness in an '83 T Bird. Still searching for it, I'll try the Fox Body people
    Click image for larger version. 

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  20. #40
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    not exactly sure what that is. The usual wider one looks like this

    https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Fo...e-p/a14889.htm

    fits a 3/16 wide blade.

    surprised your terminals are not the same as what my Continental had. The radio in my car came out of an 86 Towncar, but previously I had one from an 87 Vic in it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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