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'79 351W Revitalisation

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    #31
    Ok, so I was poking around on eBay because my guy can't find the 2150 he thought he had on hand. He thinks he may have accidentally left it in one of the cars he's gotten rid of over the last year. Anyway...

    I saw this particular option, but wasn't sure it was a good idea:

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F173720731806

    Maybe good enough for a while until I give that Windsor the ol' 4bbl treatment?

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

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      #32
      don't see why that wouldn't work. Looks like they spec it for 289, 302 and 351, possible you can get a smooch more power out of it with larger main jets but it should run well enough as-is. You can do some plug reads to see if it needs more main jet. Just make sure the lever looks like yours with the proper connections for the kickdown rod and the throttle linkage. Probably would benefit from some distributor re-curving as well. The stock stuff tends to be overly conservative for emissions reasons, but if you let it pull more timing earlier it should make it suck less. Its not a particularly high compression engine so it will suffer a fair bit of timing without any BS as long as the fuel mix isn't too lean.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
        don't see why that wouldn't work. Looks like they spec it for 289, 302 and 351, possible you can get a smooch more power out of it with larger main jets but it should run well enough as-is. You can do some plug reads to see if it needs more main jet. Just make sure the lever looks like yours with the proper connections for the kickdown rod and the throttle linkage. Probably would benefit from some distributor re-curving as well. The stock stuff tends to be overly conservative for emissions reasons, but if you let it pull more timing earlier it should make it suck less. Its not a particularly high compression engine so it will suffer a fair bit of timing without any BS as long as the fuel mix isn't too lean.
        For the most part right now I'm just wanting to get it running again. And best that I can tell, the lever looks close enough. The throttle and cruise control connect to the same link that connects to the ball socket on the lever. I figured this seemed like a good cost effective item to get it running.

        Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
        1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
        1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
        1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
        2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

        Comment


          #34
          So my buddy bought one of those cheap eBay carbs. It’s unbelievable how inexpensive they are. We got his truck running with it, however it’s not drivable so I can’t say for sure how good it is. I will say the engine runs with it and revs up
          -Phil

          sigpic

          +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

          +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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            #35
            Ok, so the 7200 looks to have a fully electric choke, and this 2150 has an electric assisted choke. Would this be an appropriate part to install onto the 2150 to bring it to full electric?

            https://carbkitsource.com/chokes/cc028.html

            Also, what would be the best way to block off the heated air inlet on the choke?

            Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
            1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
            1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
            1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
            2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

            Comment


              #36
              I was under the impression that the choke thermostats were either 100% electric or 100% heat activated. But your car has already made me learn a few new things, so I am learning each day.

              There are several different choke thermostats available. I think many of the Ford Product ones from 1960ish-1990ish are the same size. The tang design on the carbs changed a little - check your current 2150 choke thermostat and find an 2150 application electric thermostat with the same design and it should work for you. Some like a full 12V key on, and some like output from the stator of the alternator at a lesser voltage. Check the output of your wire with the car running. Generally, anything with a Ford 1G alternator will like the stator output.

              On the carb choke, you can run with the heat riser connection disconnected no problem. Stuff a cork in it if you want, or if it’s threaded you can just get a threaded cap and screw onto it to keep the bugs and crap out.
              Last edited by Tiggie; 01-02-2020, 08:12 AM.
              1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
              1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

              GMN Box Panther History
              Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
              Box Panther Production Numbers

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                #37
                If I'm understanding the choke configurations correctly, even if they fit the same, you can't swap an electric choke from an electric-assist to full electric. The electric-assist version heats less because it has warm/hot air as well, whereas the full electric generates more heat. I could probably swap the choke from the 7200 to the 2150, but it seems better to get a new choke. Just not sure if the part that I found is full electric or electric-assist.

                As for the hot air inlet, unless someone happens to know the size and thread, I suppose that I can just wander on over to a hardware store with it and see what fits. Can probably seal it up sufficiently with some Teflon pipe tape.

                Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
                1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

                Comment


                  #38
                  When I had my 2150, I just left it open. I believe originally I had a piece of rubber hose threaded onto it getting it closer to the headers. In either configuration the choke ended up opening just fine
                  -Phil

                  sigpic

                  +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                  +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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