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    #16
    I just finished swapping out the window deflectors. I managed to snap a couple when clearing the snow from the 1st storm off of the Explorer. The driver side rear door didn't have a deflector when I bought it; nor is there any adhesive residue as with the other doors. The WeatherTech deflectors are one end of an extreme; whereas they install underneath the weatherstripping. The rear door deflectors have a little adhesive on them; which makes installation difficult on doors that don't have much usage. Actually, the passenger rear window is jammed shut for now because the window motor isn't strong enough to open the window now. I'll deal with that next summer when things are warmer and more flexible.

    For now, they should work if it should get repressively warm out. The old deflectors were just stuck onto the outside of the door frame. While they probably worked great when new; the plastic became brittle with age and easily snapped/cracked with a little pressure. Removing them involved running a putty knife between the deflector and the adhesive for separation. The result as you can see is a lot of leftover residue. I'm going to wait for the summer heat to try and remove the adhesive from the old window reflectors. Or I might see if I can get some body shop to do that and touch up the areas the putty knife gouged during the removal process.

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    Last edited by packman; 03-03-2021, 12:08 PM.

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      #17
      The weathertech ones are a clean looking piece. My father has a set on his silverado.

      I junkyard picked the set I had on my Escort. I made a bunch of boo-boos while trying to remove them. they do get brittle. I was able to find a good set between a couple cars. Polished them up and was very happy. What worked best was a nice long blade. Didnt matter much scratching the junkyard door frame.
      ~David~

      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

      Originally posted by ootdega
      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

      Originally posted by gadget73
      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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        #18
        The old deflectors must have been aftermarket. I don't think Ford would have stuck them on the door frames like that. The last car we had that had stock deflectors was the '83 Olds Delta 88; but those were metal (chrome?); and easily removed and replaced.

        I went outside after everything got silent at work and cleaned the floor of the Explorer; left all the doors open; and installed the floor mats. The original driver side floor mat was worn through to the rubber backing material; the passenger side mat had flat spots in the carpet material; and the rear mats were untouched, but stained. I would have kept them; but they would just sit in the basement waiting for a second chance that would never come.

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          #19
          I've never had any luck with those wind deflectors that go inbetween the seal and frame. The seals get fucky and the windows have a hard time going up. The stick on ones seem like a much better solution. I wonder if a stick-on version from some other car would fit the doors on a box...
          The metal ones look cool and period correct on boxes, but are miserable to install.
          1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
          1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

          Comment


            #20
            The Olds deflectors were on the other end of the extreme; as they had retaining clips that attached to the deflector flange. You then pulled top of the weatherstripping down so you can jam the clips into the exposed window channel. After that you jam the weather stripping back into place and roll up the window. It was a good design if your weatherstripping is robust.

            Before I got my Malibu; it looked like somebody had installed the same deflectors and then took them off. But he/she cut the weatherstripping in order to install. When I rolled down the window; the side of the weatherstripping on the driver side would roll down with it. LOL

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              #21
              Well, CV is not running and the inspection is coming up for the Explorer. So I went ahead and cleaned the intake inside and out a couple days ago. Actually, I cleaned the inside a few months ago when there was still snow on the driveway. Painted the intake last night. Came out decent; some spots could use more paint, but I don't feel like being bothered with the respray. Just gonna move onto the valve covers. Hopefully I will get to this exchange next weekend.

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                #22
                Spent the weekend replacing the fuel rail pressure sensor, valve covers, and the above mentioned intake manifold. First thing I did was manage to break the vacuum hose/line clip (and a little of the hose itself) when I attempted to remove it. It took me a little time to realize that unlike the fuel line clips; the vacuum line clip is a ring that you push in to release the hose/line. When I finally figured it out; it broke either from age or me fiddling with it for 15 minutes. That was the harbinger of things to come. There was a hanky hose clamp on the side of intake that I mangled and bent up another (of a different kind) on the hose right next to that. Took about a hour to remove the intake as the rear bolts (T26 btw) are extremely difficult to get to. Cleaned the intake runner flanges with Gum Cutter and went ahead to remove the valve covers. The driver side looked to be the difficult one to get out, but it wasn't that difficult. At that point it was getting dark and I should have quit, but I figured I would at least set the new valve cover down. So I installed the pcv valve without noticing that it was missing the O-ring. That resulted in breaking the plastic nub/thread in the valve cover orifice. Ran down to Autozone to get Dorman O-rings; installed the O-ring; and wrapped the pcv valve thread with Teflon tape; and crammed it into the valve cover. So that's how that went. It's tight, but I will have to check on it periodically because I don't know if the oil will cause it to pop back out. Valve cover went back on that night. Yesterday afternoon I attempted the passenger side valve cover. I immediately realized that the EGR pipe was going to be a major obstruction. I was able to remove the EGR valve; but that wasn't enough to remove the valve cover. I tried to loosen the nut on the exhaust manifold, but that wasn't budging. Watched a few YoutTube videos of people just wrestling that valve cover off. I ignored the video where a lift was used. So I took the middle road and pulled/bent the EGR pipe back and out of the way. Disconnected the fuel line; and proceeded to remove the valve cover. Cleaned the flange and slapped the new valve cover on. My clicker torque wrench decided to give me issues with the top middle valve cover bolt and would not click no matter how many times I unthreaded and rethreaded the bolt. Eventually, the bolt had enough and snapped; didn't even have that much torque on it. Not critical because that seems to be the dry crusty side of the engine and it is in the top and middle location; I don't expect much of an oil leak. As such, I am on the hunt for another torque wrench; one with the pointer. I reconnected the fuel line and a bunch of connectors; and after a bunch of vacuuming, I installed the intake............a few times as I had forgotten a few things. It was dark by the time I got most of it back together; and I was very hungry; so I left the throttle body (that I cleaned with Gum Cutter) install for later today. Hopefully it fires up and that CEL is gone.

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                  #23
                  Working through issue after another, but coming out on top. Plastic hose ends and clips are a pain in the ass, no matter how old or new.
                  Valve covers and intake are looking pretty cool, you should brush some (maybe silver) paint on those letters on top of the intake. Icing on the cake.
                  1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                  1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

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                    #24
                    I might do that, but most likely not. I will clean the intake tube and box so that it doesn't look so dingy. I suspect at some point, there was an electrical fire as there is a whitish-grayish residue spattered on the intake and the engine compartment. Hopefully it's just the fuel rail pressure sensor that is bad.

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                      #25
                      I buttoned everything up when I got home from work. I rigged up the fuel purge solenoid hose with a plastic fuel line clip. It doesn’t go all the way through the hose flange; but enough to prevent the hose from being pulled off. Primed the system and it fired right up. Let it idle for 15 minutes and took it out for a 5 mile cruise. Runs noticeably smoother than before. Probably because of the carboned up throttle body that I cleaned up. My Mom just took it out and said it runs a lot better than it did. Question: if I still have a problem; how long will it take for the ECM to put out a CEL? I had the battery disconnected for 3 days.

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                        #26
                        So I found out when I took the Explorer in for inspection this morning, that it takes many miles to get the I/M monitors to fire off. So I took it to work today in the hopes that it will be enough mileage (31 miles one-way). So far, no CEL. We'll see when I get back from work.

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                          #27
                          Some monitors require a certain amount of start ups, attaining/maintaining certain speeds. Its generally not a good idea to disconnect a battery when going for an inspection within a week or so as you encounter what you just have.
                          ~David~

                          My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                          My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                          Originally posted by ootdega
                          My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                          Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                          But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                          Comment


                            #28
                            also the gas tank, between 1/4 and 3/4 or is it above 3/4 or below 1/4? I have CRS lately.
                            03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                            02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                            08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                            12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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                              #29
                              All is well. I scanned the Explorer this morning and the I/M monitors were doing their thing. Took it down to inspection and told my Mom to wait for me to come back from work so I can drive her over to pick it up. Too hot for her to walk; despite her loving this heat. She probably won't listen and walk down there anyway :-/

                              Now I want to focus on the Crown Vic again.

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                                #30
                                So much for the top middle VC bolt not leaking. Noticed a wiff of burning oil on my way to work today [Merc has a sheet metal screw in the front tire ]. Sure enough when I pop the hood, I see some oil on the lowwer corner of the valve cover flange. I will retighten the valve cover bolts on that side and see what comes of it. Still runs like a champ though.

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