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Thread: 1987 Lincoln-Load Leveling troubleshooting- compressor is good but won't pump up

  1. #21
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Yah I'm not cutting up my car either, I just recognize that the system which replaced it is better. If I replaced my car with an '87 Conti or '90-'92 Mark VII, the air system would remain intact for those as well. Nothing rides better than air in my opinion. And it's cool that the car maintains factory height at all times within limits of the system.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  2. #22
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    If the Panther had ever come with 4 wheel air, I'd be more inclined to swap the frame if I'm being honest about it. Handles and rides well. Even the Continental with its coat hanger sway bars and the mushier type air springs handles better than you'd expect it should.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #23
    Member ZackN920's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    It's a 'module'

    I like the turbines better myself but the purist in me knows that only the lacy spokes were Town Car exclusive, so internally there is a bit of prestige there and I think they were also the higher cost option.

    Ooo man, I'd consider giving you what you paid perhaps but I wouldn't even ask $8k for my Town Car and it realistically needs nothing and I already have history with it, 40,000+ miles worth actually. Plus, I told myself no more Town Cars unless it has the digital dash & JBL option from the factory.
    lol. yup.

    ooh, I didn't know that the lacy spokes are TC exclusive...

    Bwahahaha. That'd be my "stupid" price. As in 'I don't want to sell it, but if you give me xxxx amount I can be persuaded'. Realistic price that I'd like would be in the ballpark of $3500. I bought it for just a bit more than half of that. Since I've got money and time tied into it(on top of purchase), I'd want to make SOME of that back and a little profit. How many miles on yours? Mine has 98K right now. I only put about 2k on it last summer/fall. Took it off the road when winter came around.

    Hmm, digital dash would be an interesting option, and I like the extra features it has but I like the look of the analog gauge panel better. I wonder how the JBL sounds? Mines just got the so called "premium sound" with a football amp in the trunk. That amp has something wrong with the left channel, less bass response than the right and tinny treble. Kinda pisses me off that it's a bastard system that I can't do much with, without rewiring I like the head unit, and it works properly, but that stupid amp. Sound is good out the back speakers so I know its not the radio. Welp, I'm rambalin'.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

  4. #24
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    You guys goin on about air ride... Ive got no clue what it's even like. Never ridden in a car with air ride. They've all had springs. Leaves in the back and either leaves, coils or torsion bars in the front...

    What's it like? Literally riding on a cloud?
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

  5. #25
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The JBL is quite decent. Have it factory in the Mark VII, and I installed it in the Continental as an upgrade from the football amp. Something like 4x the power and its pretty noticeable. The Towncar has a bunch of aftermarket stuff.

    I half considered installing the digital dash once but abandoned that idea when I realized how much wiring was involved to make the message center function. The fuel gauge and speedo are easy, but without the message center its kind of pointless IMO. The easiest way to do it would be to pull the dash harness out of a donor car, and thats not exactly a trivial thing to do.

    The air suspension is a bit hard to describe really. Its not so much floating on a cloud as it is just well behaved. I've been in 70s land yachts where it feels like you're piloting a water bed down the road. No real connection between you and anything. If you can imagine that ride, but without the "not connected to anything" aspect to it. It doesn't wallow around corners or have so much body roll you worry about capsizing.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  6. #26
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZackN920 View Post
    You guys goin on about air ride... Ive got no clue what it's even like. Never ridden in a car with air ride. They've all had springs. Leaves in the back and either leaves, coils or torsion bars in the front...

    What's it like? Literally riding on a cloud?
    What gadget said. My dad had a '90 Mark VII and that thing was pretty nice to ride in. Ashley later got a '91 Mark VII and it was the same thing until the compressor quit and we sold it. They've got better manners compared to regulo springs. The ride height adjustment thing is pretty cool too.

    Quote Originally Posted by ZackN920 View Post
    lol. yup.

    ooh, I didn't know that the lacy spokes are TC exclusive...

    Bwahahaha. That'd be my "stupid" price. As in 'I don't want to sell it, but if you give me xxxx amount I can be persuaded'. Realistic price that I'd like would be in the ballpark of $3500. I bought it for just a bit more than half of that. Since I've got money and time tied into it(on top of purchase), I'd want to make SOME of that back and a little profit. How many miles on yours? Mine has 98K right now. I only put about 2k on it last summer/fall. Took it off the road when winter came around.

    Hmm, digital dash would be an interesting option, and I like the extra features it has but I like the look of the analog gauge panel better. I wonder how the JBL sounds? Mines just got the so called "premium sound" with a football amp in the trunk. That amp has something wrong with the left channel, less bass response than the right and tinny treble. Kinda pisses me off that it's a bastard system that I can't do much with, without rewiring I like the head unit, and it works properly, but that stupid amp. Sound is good out the back speakers so I know its not the radio. Welp, I'm rambalin'.
    Oh ok, yeah that makes sense. I don't think I've ever made money off a car in the sense most look at it. Now, if I could get $6,500 for my Town Car, I think I will have made money off it. But, I wouldn't be able to replace it with something just as good/reliable for that price. 'Cause as you said, by the time you start throwing money at it to make it reliable in your eyes, you're over market value. And of course the car you want to buy is always over priced and under maintained, but they won't come down at all. Don't know where these clowns find their deals but I sure wish I had access to that circus...

    I think my car has 123k on it now (I think). I bought it with 86,xxx on it. I've rehabbed the A/C, had it painted, put new tires on it (even the spare), resealed the top half of the engine, upgraded the stereo completely with subwoofer & big ass capacitor, put special window tint on it, did the 3G alternator swap, upgraded the body ground for the stereo, replaced window motors, every single light bulb, headlights, reaimed them, had a trak-lok put in it, re did the brakes and more I'm sure. It's a great car. I just don't really drive it any more. Last time I did I think it was for the Metro-Detroit meet up back in October.

    The JBL system is damn decent, even to this day. JBL is(was) one hell of a speaker mfg'r too. Back in the day, they were the industry standard for studio monitors and live performances, shit was legendary. They made all of their own drivers and R&D'd in house. I'm sure it was no different with their car audio stuff and what the Lincolns got was awesome. They way they did it is how they still do it today, Preamp feeding external amplifier feeding coaxial speakers. You should see the magnets on the 6x9's, massive. I champion that factory stuff big time. If you can find a Townie with the JBL option, pilfer the amp and the speakers. You'd be hardpressed to beat the speakers with anything modern without spending big bucks. They sound that good. Now, the foam will have rotted away on one of the smaller speakers in the 6x9's but if you unplug it, no biggie. I ran my Town Car with factory JBL stuff for awhile after I put the aftermarket amp & head unit in. I didn't notice much in the way of improvement when I moved to JBL Power Series speakers, may that series rest in peace. Last decent one from JBL.

    The wiring problem you mentioned is also why I give the 1988 model year Town Car the nod as the best year (among other things). My car was a factory premium sound car and all I had to do was swap the amp out (Yep, the JBL amp will plug & play with the factory harness that year) and swap the speakers over and boom, she's got factory JBL. Only missing touch is the JBL-Ford emblems for my 6x9's, I need those and still haven't been able to find minty ones for my car. Even if you went aftermarket, you could still use a lot of the wiring on an '88+ box Townie.

    The digi dash is cool because of all the spaceship buttons on that dash panel. But like gadget said, there really is no easy way to put it in a Town Car which doesn't have it. I do prefer the backlit analog dash of the '88 & '89 model years over the '87 and down.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    The JBL is quite decent. Have it factory in the Mark VII, and I installed it in the Continental as an upgrade from the football amp. Something like 4x the power and its pretty noticeable. The Towncar has a bunch of aftermarket stuff.

    I half considered installing the digital dash once but abandoned that idea when I realized how much wiring was involved to make the message center function. The fuel gauge and speedo are easy, but without the message center its kind of pointless IMO. The easiest way to do it would be to pull the dash harness out of a donor car, and thats not exactly a trivial thing to do.

    The air suspension is a bit hard to describe really. Its not so much floating on a cloud as it is just well behaved. I've been in 70s land yachts where it feels like you're piloting a water bed down the road. No real connection between you and anything. If you can imagine that ride, but without the "not connected to anything" aspect to it. It doesn't wallow around corners or have so much body roll you worry about capsizing.
    Oooooh, JBL sounds sweeter than I thought. If I remember right, its not plug and play with an '87. If it was, that be something i'd be on the look out for in the local JY.

    I'm not big on aftermarket junk. I've removed a couple of systems and reverted back to stock. Those vehicles sounded better with a stock unit. My Cherokee for example, had a Sony head unit in it. The system had no bass and sounded tinny. No matter how it was set, it sounded like shit. Put a Chrysler CD/Cassette unit in it and it sound's awesome. Great bass for having no sub, good mids and treble. That stereo has an equalizer too!

    I think the Digital Dash is cool but I wouldn't really want it. Unless the car already had it. I'd rather have some of the functions in an upper console (like how my dad's Jeep Grand Cherokee is set up)

    LOL- "piloting a water bed down the road" Yea, I can imagine that ride. I haven't experienced it anytime in the last several years but I get what ya mean Air ride sounds... pleasant. If I get the chance, i'll have to try it.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Oh ok, yeah that makes sense. I don't think I've ever made money off a car in the sense most look at it. Now, if I could get $6,500 for my Town Car, I think I will have made money off it. But, I wouldn't be able to replace it with something just as good/reliable for that price. 'Cause as you said, by the time you start throwing money at it to make it reliable in your eyes, you're over market value. And of course the car you want to buy is always over priced and under maintained, but they won't come down at all. Don't know where these clowns find their deals but I sure wish I had access to that circus...

    I think my car has 123k on it now (I think). I bought it with 86,xxx on it. I've rehabbed the A/C, had it painted, put new tires on it (even the spare), resealed the top half of the engine, upgraded the stereo completely with subwoofer & big ass capacitor, put special window tint on it, did the 3G alternator swap, upgraded the body ground for the stereo, replaced window motors, every single light bulb, headlights, reaimed them, had a trak-lok put in it, re did the brakes and more I'm sure. It's a great car. I just don't really drive it any more. Last time I did I think it was for the Metro-Detroit meet up back in October.

    The JBL system is damn decent, even to this day. JBL is(was) one hell of a speaker mfg'r too. Back in the day, they were the industry standard for studio monitors and live performances, shit was legendary. They made all of their own drivers and R&D'd in house. I'm sure it was no different with their car audio stuff and what the Lincolns got was awesome. They way they did it is how they still do it today, Preamp feeding external amplifier feeding coaxial speakers. You should see the magnets on the 6x9's, massive. I champion that factory stuff big time. If you can find a Townie with the JBL option, pilfer the amp and the speakers. You'd be hardpressed to beat the speakers with anything modern without spending big bucks. They sound that good. Now, the foam will have rotted away on one of the smaller speakers in the 6x9's but if you unplug it, no biggie. I ran my Town Car with factory JBL stuff for awhile after I put the aftermarket amp & head unit in. I didn't notice much in the way of improvement when I moved to JBL Power Series speakers, may that series rest in peace. Last decent one from JBL.

    The wiring problem you mentioned is also why I give the 1988 model year Town Car the nod as the best year (among other things). My car was a factory premium sound car and all I had to do was swap the amp out (Yep, the JBL amp will plug & play with the factory harness that year) and swap the speakers over and boom, she's got factory JBL. Only missing touch is the JBL-Ford emblems for my 6x9's, I need those and still haven't been able to find minty ones for my car. Even if you went aftermarket, you could still use a lot of the wiring on an '88+ box Townie.

    The digi dash is cool because of all the spaceship buttons on that dash panel. But like gadget said, there really is no easy way to put it in a Town Car which doesn't have it. I do prefer the backlit analog dash of the '88 & '89 model years over the '87 and down.
    Having something painted is a big HUGE expense. I can see why it'd be hard for ya to get money back. Your car is worth some good coin though, with all that done. If it's real nice, NADA claims its worth around $10K. Think I've seen a few pics of yours. Its black right? Black Town Cars are the shiz. My favorite color and the ultimate 1980's mob mobile. I get told that mine looks like a mob car- I just laugh. "Like really, you think 'light sandalwood' is a mob car color?" My car is a business man's, or an OLD MAN car.

    I knew JBL was some pretty good stuff for home stereo (usually expensive) but didn't really think THAT much of it for car audio. I figured it was a bit better, but you guys are really boasting about it. hmm, I wonder how my crappy amp set up would sound with just the JBL speakers? How are those 6X9's set up? I have re-foamed speakers before. Its not that hard. Can they be pulled apart to do?

    Hmm, were on opposite ends than when it comes to analog gauges in these cars. I like 87 and older more than the newer. The new just doesn't look like it has as much class. They lost the Lincoln logo's and I don't really like the needles as much.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

  9. #29
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I think if you get the '86 JBL amp it might be. (I have one )

    I certainly talk it up. I used to have to put stereos in everything I drove, speakers and all that. Only the $300+ a pair stuff I bought from Boston Acoustics (Back when they still sold car audio stuff) came close and was maybe better. But I blew two pairs of their 6x9's and I've never been able to blow this JBL stuff and for the price, can't beat it. A car is a terrible listening environment anyway. I'm much more satisfied with what I've got going on at home now. JBL L150A's, Marantz 510M with a Marantz 3600 Preamp and a Audio Control Series II equalizer. Audiophonic Nirvana right there.

    Yah, here's the first page of my car's thread: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-1988-Town-Car

    NADA is just talk, a person standing in front of you makin' an offer is what I go buy. I certainly wouldn't pay 10k to own my car haha.

    Those 6x9's are set up such that the big woofer has a cloth type surround which never needs to be redone, there is a midrange type speaker which does have the foam which has rotted away and a tweeter which will be fine. It'll be the dash speakers you'll never find. They've all been rotted away by the sun so you'll be SOL there. I just leave mine disconnected and run door & rears as well a sub. The JBL amp should talk to the aftermarket speakers just fine, but might run hotter since they're lower impedance than the factory stuff. Maybe it'll blow the fuse more often or whatnot. Not sure. Gadget will chime in and say the amps do tend to die after awhile and need to have a thing-a-ma-bob replaced. You can find the parts online though. You can use the JBL amp with a aftermarket stereo too. I did that but noticed the volume was really low for whatever reason. I then just bought an aftermarket amp and when all out with it.

    Aesthetically, the '87 and down looks better. In daylight. Everywhere else, the newer stuff reigns to me. I even appreciate the updated warning light cluster with added check engine light. Although it doesn't work on many '88's for whatever reason. Mine never has, Ashley's old '89 did though.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  10. #30
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    It can be made to work on an 87 with the premium sound amp but it does require a bit of jiggering around. I was able to run it from the original head unit without issue, but I did eventually swap it to the JBL one. I can dig up my notes from when I converted the 84 Continental. it should be pretty much the same process on an 87 Towncar. I made adapter harnesses so the factory wiring isn't much modified. I can actually plug the football amp back in and have it work. Somewhere in the middle I converted it from 2 channel football to 4 channel to see if it made a difference. Honestly it did not, o at least not enough of one to bother with. What I'm using doesn't exactly match what the car would have come with if it was a factory JBL system but I was able to make it go. If you can find an 87-89 car with the JBL rig, that might be a better donor though. Pull the signal cable from front to back and use the later head unit. That will get you into the 90s for stereos, and those could be had with a CD player or changer. Very simple to hack in an aux input on the later stuff that was changer-compatible. Its possible to do on the earlier ones but it requires a little internal surgery.

    The factory speakers were fairly low impedance. Premium sound rears should be 6 ohm, the fronts are also 6 ohm for a total load of 3 ohms since they're in parallel.

    In a perfect world I'd have a heavier power cable, but its functional as-is. At some point I may upgrade the power feed though.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  11. #31
    Member ZackN920's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    I think if you get the '86 JBL amp it might be. (I have one )

    I certainly talk it up. I used to have to put stereos in everything I drove, speakers and all that. Only the $300+ a pair stuff I bought from Boston Acoustics (Back when they still sold car audio stuff) came close and was maybe better. But I blew two pairs of their 6x9's and I've never been able to blow this JBL stuff and for the price, can't beat it. A car is a terrible listening environment anyway. I'm much more satisfied with what I've got going on at home now. JBL L150A's, Marantz 510M with a Marantz 3600 Preamp and a Audio Control Series II equalizer. Audiophonic Nirvana right there.

    Yah, here's the first page of my car's thread: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-1988-Town-Car

    NADA is just talk, a person standing in front of you makin' an offer is what I go buy. I certainly wouldn't pay 10k to own my car haha.

    Those 6x9's are set up such that the big woofer has a cloth type surround which never needs to be redone, there is a midrange type speaker which does have the foam which has rotted away and a tweeter which will be fine. It'll be the dash speakers you'll never find. They've all been rotted away by the sun so you'll be SOL there. I just leave mine disconnected and run door & rears as well a sub. The JBL amp should talk to the aftermarket speakers just fine, but might run hotter since they're lower impedance than the factory stuff. Maybe it'll blow the fuse more often or whatnot. Not sure. Gadget will chime in and say the amps do tend to die after awhile and need to have a thing-a-ma-bob replaced. You can find the parts online though. You can use the JBL amp with a aftermarket stereo too. I did that but noticed the volume was really low for whatever reason. I then just bought an aftermarket amp and when all out with it.

    Aesthetically, the '87 and down looks better. In daylight. Everywhere else, the newer stuff reigns to me. I even appreciate the updated warning light cluster with added check engine light. Although it doesn't work on many '88's for whatever reason. Mine never has, Ashley's old '89 did though.
    Really?... It sure would be nice if it'd plug in and work. So, ya got one huh... Would you let it go?

    Totally agree with ya about a car being a terrible listening environment. That's why for the most part I'm not too interested in car audio. Stock is good enough for me (as long as it works right). My primary music listening is at the house. That set up you have looks awesome. I looked up each piece online... impressive. My junk is more "lofi" than any of that... I'm cheap though, don't like spending too much and I don't often see higher end stuff like that for a decent price. I got a crappy 100wpc Fisher system from the 80's in my living room atm. Had my restored Lafayette LR-1500T there, but that decided to kill itself back in January. I've since fixed it, but now its the shop stereo for awhile since I brought the spare(the fisher) home.

    That is a fudging sweet car

    If I was legitimately rich, I would not give a crap about spending 10K for your car. Especially if it was turn key ready and I don't have to do nothing to it. I get what ya mean though. My Grand Wagoneer is supposedly worth 10K as it is, but I wouldn't pay it. Hell, I wouldn't pay what most ask for them any way's, regardless of what the nice ones go for at auction. But other people do... Unfortunately though, too many people actually try to screw ya when it comes time that you want to sell, then act like they're doing you a favor... screw em'.

    Really, the woofer has a cloth surround? Ya don't see that too often. What about running the stock "premium sound" dash speakers? Mine sound allright. No plans for a Sub here. I don't like the idea of wasting the space and the extra weight.

    I see what you mean(regarding the gauge cluster) At night it is a bit lackluster, but I still prefer it. It's different compared to the other's I got. I like different.



    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    It can be made to work on an 87 with the premium sound amp but it does require a bit of jiggering around. I was able to run it from the original head unit without issue, but I did eventually swap it to the JBL one. I can dig up my notes from when I converted the 84 Continental. it should be pretty much the same process on an 87 Towncar. I made adapter harnesses so the factory wiring isn't much modified. I can actually plug the football amp back in and have it work. Somewhere in the middle I converted it from 2 channel football to 4 channel to see if it made a difference. Honestly it did not, o at least not enough of one to bother with. What I'm using doesn't exactly match what the car would have come with if it was a factory JBL system but I was able to make it go. If you can find an 87-89 car with the JBL rig, that might be a better donor though. Pull the signal cable from front to back and use the later head unit. That will get you into the 90s for stereos, and those could be had with a CD player or changer. Very simple to hack in an aux input on the later stuff that was changer-compatible. Its possible to do on the earlier ones but it requires a little internal surgery.

    The factory speakers were fairly low impedance. Premium sound rears should be 6 ohm, the fronts are also 6 ohm for a total load of 3 ohms since they're in parallel.

    In a perfect world I'd have a heavier power cable, but its functional as-is. At some point I may upgrade the power feed though.
    Hmm, what kind of "jiggering around"?
    oh, the harnesses... that kind of jiggering. Well, that's no big deal- I could do that... As long as I have schematics or notes to show how to set it up. Did you have a write up online here that you could link? Eh, im not worried too much about using CD's in the car. I got more cassettes anyways... I'd rather just stick to the older equipment, especially if that means less rigamarolling around.
    Last edited by ZackN920; 02-07-2020 at 09:27 PM.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

  12. #32
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I'll see if I can find my notes and scan them. My "instructions" tend to be closer to something written in code that is of debatable value to anyone else. Honestly its not that complicated really. On the 2 channel premium sound amps, there are 3 wires (L, ground, R) to the amp and two to each rear speaker for a total of 7 wires. Basically what you have to do is move the wires from the rear speakers to the rear channel inputs on the amp, and connect the front ones in as well. Original amp front output wires go to new amp front outputs. New wires run from the amp to the rear speakers. Move over the power and switch wires too. I used a bunch of OE terminals and connector shells from a junk premium sound amp to make an adapter harness that sits between the original car wiring and the 86 JBL amp. It might not be the coolest looking thing, but its absolutely functional and completely reversible.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #33
    Member ZackN920's Avatar
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    ok, back on track here.

    UPDATE!

    I recently changed out the rear shocks with a set of new Monroe's from Rockauto. Got them for like $45! I haven't had problem with there stuff, and at that price- I'll give these guy's a shot. Man, what a bitch of a job that was! Afternoon project. I just went gung-ho. Didn't look up any how-to's or nothin'. Probably took me about 5 hours overall to figure out my plan and get things apart and back together. Did it all from underneath the car. Luckily those top nut's weren't too rusted. I did have to put a chain strap tool I have (don't know what it's called) around the shock body and use that to turn it to break those top nuts loose, but that got em. Got the new shocks in, connected to new lines, then the new T-adapter to match them with the old line coming from the compressor. Today I leak tested the system and tied up my lines so I don't have to worry about them getting pinched or melted by the exhaust. No leaks in the back!

    Well, they work as they should! and They'll really jack it up too if I wanted. I need to re-adjust the height sensor again because it appears that it's set to keep the back about 1-1/4" taller than the front. That's according to the tape measure, measuring from the garage floor to the wheel well openings on each corner. I also pulled the car outside today to get a look at it and it does have a little rake. If I could get it down to about 3/4" higher in the rear I think that would be perfect. It would look pretty straight (normal height looks like town cars sag a bit) and would guarantee that the shocks have something in them (Monroe recommends having 20 psi in them at all times).

    Still have 1 problem though. It has been a few days since I was in that building and I noticed that the car had lost it's air pressure. The back end was back down. Like said above, I tested the fittings/connections in the back and no leaks. But that fitting at the compressor sure was leaking, lots of bubbles from my soapy water mix. Before I cut the end of the air line off, is there anything else I could do to get this to seal? Can I replace the O ring inside that press in fitting? I noticed that the line does appear have an indentation around itself and when pushed in all the way, it seems to leak the most. If its pushed in just half the way it leaks less. I don't know if there are any tricks I can try or not. I really didn't find much when searching about it on one of our cars.

    Anyways, that's where I'm at.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

  14. #34
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    needs a new O ring. If you can get the X profile one, they seal better. Or shoot me a PM with your address and I'll mail you a couple. I bought a bag of 100 of the proper ones from McMaster for 8 bucks.

    Pop the plastic ring off the fitting
    pull the brass piece out of the compressor
    carefully extract the O ring and possibly the plastic washer from inside
    replace the O ring and plastic washer (some had it, some don't)
    put the brass thing and the plastic cap back on
    put a smidge of lube on the plastic line and put it back together.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  15. #35
    Member ZackN920's Avatar
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    Awesome!

    I didn't know that would come apart. This little project will be on my to-do list for tomorrow. I've got plenty of regular O-rings, so I'll give one of them a try first and report back how it went. If it still doesn't seal well, I may take you up on that offer. I've never seen X profile O rings before and I probably won't be able to find any here in town.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

  16. #36
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    They're a bit of an odd item but absolutely perfect for this. Should be a -008 O-ring if your kit has the listed by dash numbers.

    https://o-ring.info/en/downloads/mat...ing-vs-o-ring/

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  17. #37
    Member ZackN920's Avatar
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    Northern IL.
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    Ok. Yea, my kit does have each size numbered, didn't really pay much attention to them earlier... I just grabbed what looked to be the closest size to the old one (which was mis-shape'nd) and tried it. Still leaked though. I didn't really have as much time as I wanted to mess with it.

    I checked out that link. Interesting info.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

  18. #38
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZackN920 View Post
    Really?... It sure would be nice if it'd plug in and work. So, ya got one huh... Would you let it go?

    Totally agree with ya about a car being a terrible listening environment. That's why for the most part I'm not too interested in car audio. Stock is good enough for me (as long as it works right). My primary music listening is at the house. That set up you have looks awesome. I looked up each piece online... impressive. My junk is more "lofi" than any of that... I'm cheap though, don't like spending too much and I don't often see higher end stuff like that for a decent price. I got a crappy 100wpc Fisher system from the 80's in my living room atm. Had my restored Lafayette LR-1500T there, but that decided to kill itself back in January. I've since fixed it, but now its the shop stereo for awhile since I brought the spare(the fisher) home.

    That is a fudging sweet car

    If I was legitimately rich, I would not give a crap about spending 10K for your car. Especially if it was turn key ready and I don't have to do nothing to it. I get what ya mean though. My Grand Wagoneer is supposedly worth 10K as it is, but I wouldn't pay it. Hell, I wouldn't pay what most ask for them any way's, regardless of what the nice ones go for at auction. But other people do... Unfortunately though, too many people actually try to screw ya when it comes time that you want to sell, then act like they're doing you a favor... screw em'.

    Really, the woofer has a cloth surround? Ya don't see that too often. What about running the stock "premium sound" dash speakers? Mine sound allright. No plans for a Sub here. I don't like the idea of wasting the space and the extra weight.

    I see what you mean(regarding the gauge cluster) At night it is a bit lackluster, but I still prefer it. It's different compared to the other's I got. I like different...
    I could be persuaded to let the thing go, doubt I'll ever need it. Not sure if it works though, the fuse was blown when I pulled it. Had some aftermarket junk radio hooked to it and aftermarket junk speakers that went with it, could have been a combination of factors as to why that fuse was blown. Not sure. Didn't/doesn't smell like someone let the smoke out though. I wouldn't have popped on it if it had.

    Indeed, I do too. Didn't realize how much better it is until I took home audio more seriously and listened to the people who were trying to tell me that already. Thanks man, I like the gear a lot too! I've also picked up some late 70's Klipsch Cornwalls, they're almost as good as the JBL's but the JBL's are better in the midrange & treble department, not to mention they dig deeper in the bass. But they need all the power that 510M has. The Cornwalls are damned efficent, and the 510M doesn't flinch when driving them by comparison. So if a fella didn't have 300+ watts at their disposal, I'd recommend the Cornwalls over the JBL's. I got out of hand with the gear, it originally started as me trying to channel my old man by buying a Marantz 4300. At that time, it was hooked up to a pair of JBL LX44's (which I still have) and that sounded fantastical. That gave me the "bug" and I blew the money I had saved to resurrect the Firebird in favor of audio gear. I don't regret that decision but damn, spent more than I planned on haha. The L150A's needed more power than the 4300's 100wpc could muster. Wanted to keep that old school Marantz look and the 510M was the most powerful thing they made during that era with that same look, so I jumped on one. Had it semi restored along with that equalizer and preamp. Been damn fine ever since. Well, I had to invest lots of money on the JBL's too. Protip: NEVER, under any circumstances buy a speaker without listening to it first unless you're getting them dirt cheap or for the price of just the cabinets. I had to send the F'n woofers to California to be done right (thanks Ken, over at Upland Loudspeaker Service) as the local "expert" couldn't get the job done after two tries... I should still probably redo the caps in the crossovers and bypass the pots for the the tweeter and mid for each speaker. Still sound fabulous though. Got the Cornwalls dirt cheap as again, the bug still has a hold of me and everywhere you turn, nobody has a bad thing to say about them. Although back when I asked, the Cornwalls were deemed superior to the L150A's, but not to my ears. However, if I had bought the Cornies first, I doubt I'd change them, they sound damn good and they're super efficient. So if you can score a set for <$1,000, do it. You won't regret it. At most, all you'll have to do is redo the crossovers. Everything else is rock solid. My pair will be going in the garage to better compete with the neighbor's trash I have to contend with during the summer.

    Thanks for the compliments on the car too! Yeah, selling stuff has never been a pleasant experience for me. Everyone acts like they're too broke and so I can only imagine what they'd do if I so much as listed the thing for $6,500. That's a lot of cash to count too haha.. It, along with the Firebird have become the most valuable cars I've ever owned aside from that one time I bought a brand new car. I must never speak of that experience again haha.. Grand Wagoneers are pretty cool. I've always liked them but they never made an EFI variant with over drive, did they?

    Yeah, the surrounds on the rear JBL's are cloth, as they are on the premium stuff too. Superior in my mind in terms of durability and longevity. I guess there is a science behind speaker surround materials but I hate foam. Redoing it can be a pain and there's a chance you might not center the voice coil correctly and then you're doing it all over again. Stock premium dash speaks would probably be fine. It's just the JBL's are a nice two way design, but unfortunately most of those are roached so run what ya got. I'd have tried mine out if I had known I wouldn't have liked the JBL stuff I put in there.

    When I first got started on Box Townies, I had never seen one without the digital dash. Now the non digi's are pretty much all I see. I saw quite a few of these as a kid too. Guess there is some truth to what they say- that the poorer folk tend to take better care of their cars so that's why poverty models are most often found in great condition and thus what is left? I dunno..
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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