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    #61
    I hear you. Its the digitizing part thats troublesome. There is a guy I watch on youtube that runs the vintagemachinery website. He scans piles of old things. His setup is basically a book holder and a pair of cameras, and some software that puts it together. Flip the page, hit the button, a camera grabs a picture of each page in the book. He does whatever to assemble all that into a single file for upload. Works fine for standard page books, but these big fold-out things are another story.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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      #62
      Just move the camera further away. Modern camera resolutions are good enough to make print/line drawings legible in a larger format. The tough part is getting it to sit flat (even small bumps can cause shadows or lighting errors that screw up the areas by the folds).
      I've got a good lens for it, and a camera that MIGHT be up to snuff, just got to set up a frame (to hold the pages flat) and a lighting arrangement and about 6 months of free time...

      Comment


        #63
        Bit late, but yeah, 84 is EEC-IV.

        The engine harness is different between 84 and 85, but not in operationally significant ways, just ways that make it not possible to directly swap it without alterations (e.g. the start circuit moved into a different connector but works the same, and the TPS connector changed but the TPS uses the same value range).

        There are E4 and E5 revision computers, but they can interchange with the harness of either year. I've found more 'SG' code computers in junkyard 84s than I have found in 85s, but I have also found the E4 revision SG computers in 85s. Nothing definitive. In my case I found an 85 computer was better behaved (RE: driveability issues), but the 84 computer could have issues, so again nothing definitive.

        http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...EC-IV-CFI-ECMs

        Current driver: Ranger
        Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
        | 88 TC | 91 GM
        Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
        Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
        | Junkyards

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          #64
          I wonder what ECMs I have, I have the original in a milk crate somewhere and the new one in the car that shop replaced. Changing the ECM didn't affect the engine.
          1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
          1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

          Comment


            #65
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            The first three images are the ECM connector. The 4th is ground distribution and the 5th is power distribution. Pin 1 on the ECM connector is constant power. Pins 37 and 57 are switched power supplied via the EEC power relay. Pins 60, 49 and 40 are your grounds. According to the EVTM S654 is in harness 12A581 on the back top of the engine near the EGR valve. Given its location I wouldn't be surprised if there was a problem there. G130 is located on the RH rear side of the engine. Basically what you are going to do is check for voltage drops in the power and ground circuits. In order to do this the circuit needs to be loaded. Using a voltmeter by itself does not tell the whole story. You're going to have the ECM connector disconnected from the ECM for your tests so you need to substitute a load. I use a 55 watt headlight bulb in a socket with pigtails for this. To check powers you ground one side of the bulb battery negative. You connect the other side of the bulb to the appropriate terminal in the ECM connector. BE VERY CAREFUL when you do this. You do not want to deform the terminal in the ECM connector and create a pin fitment issue. I usually hook a "T" pin to the pigtail from the light and carefully touch it to the terminal in the connector. You're also going to be using a voltmeter along with the bulb. Voltmeter negative gets connected to battery positive. Voltmeter positive gets hooked to the "T" pin. Make sure you have good solid connections with your test equipment. Connecting the voltmeter between the two positives allows you to measure the voltage difference (or drop) between those two points. If you have more than a .2V drop you have a problem with a bad connection in that circuit. To check grounds you connect one side of the bulb to battery positive and then probe the ground connections in the ECM connector. Your voltmeter goes between battery negative and your T pin.

            I'll see if I can dig up an ECM connector illustration that shows how the pins are numbered. Hope all of this helps!

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              #66
              Let me try this again. Not sure what happened the first time I tried posting these.
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                #67


                Here are the ECM pin locations.


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                  #68
                  I greatly appreciate this!

                  It's a lot to take in, I've looked at the diagrams and read through it a few times now and it's starting to make sense. I haven't done much electrical work this detailed, but I'll get to it with the help of my dad and you of course.
                  I'll be making myself some idiot-proof instructions, since step-by-step is easy for me to follow.
                  I might have a bulb and socket combo from a headlight harness I had.

                  At least this thing has only so many pins in the ECM connector...

                  Any advice on where to start with the probing (S654)? Probably check the grounds first, you mentioned the location of G130, how about the others?
                  1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                  1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                  Comment


                    #69
                    You’re welcome! Glad it makes sense. I’m not the best technical writer so I was concerned it would be confusing. Electrical troubleshooting can be lots of fun once you gain experience and technique. It’s kind of like detective work. Two good resources for learning it are the South Main Auto channel and Scannerdanner channel on YouTube. Scannerdanner has a premium channel as well with even more in depth stuff.

                    Looks like I accidentally deleted the sentence where I mentioned the other ground locations. I’ll post them when I get home and have the book in front of me.

                    I would start off checking grounds first then do power. If you find a power problem that’s when I would attack the big splice. If that’s the culprit a visual inspection should give it away. It’ll be full of green crusties or badly deteriorated from heat.


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                      #70
                      If you’re looking to pick up a tool to help with this you can find 60 pin eec-iv breakout boxes on eBay. It connects between the harness and ECM. Every ECM terminal is brought out to a box with sockets that other test instruments like scopes or multimeters can be plugged into.


                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                        #71
                        Just got out the manual and located the other two grounds. G101 is attached to the end of the negative battery cable where it bolts to the block. G120 is attached to the RH fender apron. The manual does show pictures of these locations. I'll get some scans of them.

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                          #72
                          One other thing to think about, if you're pushing and pulling the ECM connector a lot. Look at all the pins and make sure they stick out the same amount (**sometimes ground pins stick out further**), but if one of the pins looks like it's pushed back from the others it could be an intermittent/non-connection.
                          The Ford ECM connectors used the screw to make sure they stayed snug, and to reduce the "smashing into place" method of breaking plugs, but it meant that a bent or misaligned pin could be further mangled with much more force and much less feedback than the "hmm, I wonder why it's not plugging in easily" of a push-in type connector.

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                            #73
                            I have pulled out the ECM connector once myself, the mechanic probably did it a few more times, diagnosing and then changing the ECM itself.
                            When I removed the connector, surprisingly it wasn't lathered with the old dielectric grease as every other connector was. It did seem fine, I might have been the first person to remove that connector ever.
                            I don't know if I will get anything more involved too-wise, all those breakout boxes are either stupid expensive or don't ship to Finland. I might be able to locate a basic EEC-IV code reader just get KOER codes. Is there a way to check KOER codes without a reader?

                            And just to consolidate info:
                            G101: At battery cable to engine
                            G110: ?
                            G120: RH inner fender
                            G130: RH rear of engine
                            1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                            1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                            Comment


                              #74
                              Sorry it took me awhile to get these posted. Work had me travel unexpectedly the past two days.

                              There is no picture of G110. The book says it’s located below the rear of the RH valve cover.

                              Here are the others.


                              You can read the codes without a reader by jumping the self test input to ground and connecting a very low amperage computer safe test light (or analog voltmeter) to the self test output. There are detailed procedures posted here on how to do all the tests.

                              If you can find a retailer that ships to Finland you can buy an innova 3145 code reader. They are not expensive. I’d have one if I didn’t have the Ford super star ii.



                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                                #75
                                http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page13.html

                                self test process. Codes are also listed there. You need the 2 digit list.
                                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                                Originally posted by phayzer5
                                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                                Comment

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