PotM GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters Forum Index PotM
GMN Chat Room GMN's STORE!! GMN's Gallery Please!!
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: I need to change the air pump check valve...

  1. #1
    Member ZackN920's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Northern IL.
    Posts
    40

    Default I need to change the air pump check valve...

    What style should I go with?

    Ok, so my car still has all the original smog equipment. It still seems to operate fine so I'm not concerned with ripping any of it out. That, and I really don't believe it consumes much power. Anyways, I got a check valve that's right next to the heater core line (on the pass side of the engine)that has come apart. It broke apart where the big 6 sided "nut" sits against the case of the valve. It was this way when I bought the car and I "fixed" it by applying RTV to it. It sealed up the leak and kept the 2 halves stuck together.

    Well today I heard the dreaded sound of an air leak. It was blowing pretty good. Well, my fix finally came apart and it was blowing air out the crack that had formed in the RTV. So, just casually this evening I tried researching the part to see if I could get another. They are available, but there are 2 different kinds.

    They have the kind that's in the car that "bolts/screws" onto the metal air line heading to the cat's and then on the other side attaches via a rubber hose w/ clamp. The other kind available is one that has hose connections on each side of the valve. What should I go with? In my experience with my Jeep, I couldn't get these valves off without collapsing the metal line because the side bolted on was seized. I think I tried in the past to undo the bolt on the air line in the car here and I couldn't get it to budge. I didn't want to damage this one so I just quit and RTV'd it. Should I try to work with it more, or should I just cut the line and get a new one with the hose ends on each side for simplicity's sake?


    Original style: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...88637&jsn=3095

    Hose end style: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...88637&jsn=3093
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

  2. #2
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Bedford, VA
    Posts
    5,422

    Default

    I’m a fan of putting the right thing on it, but I see your challenge of the relatively weak tubing and a rusted valve.

    This is the one that attaches to the smog plumbing on rear of the cylinder heads? I’d remove that assembly from the car and try some red hot heat on the valve and see if she’ll budge. If the tubing starts to give instead, you’ll have to go the route of the double hose end valve.

    Clean out the holes in the rear of the heads while it’s out.
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, former lawn ornament
    Other: 95 Ranger, 74 F250, 68 Mustang, 94 Mustang
    Sold: 1982 LTD and 1987 Crown Vic

    GMN Box Panther History
    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
    Box Panther Production Numbers

  3. #3
    Member WagonMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Bridgewater Ct.
    Posts
    525

    Default

    I have used a die grinder to cut a groove into the remains of the valve and prying it apart. Careful not to go too deep and ruin the threads. WagonMan
    1990 Colony Park
    1970 HEMI Superbird

  4. #4
    Member ZackN920's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Northern IL.
    Posts
    40

    Default

    Update!

    Thanks guys for the tips, but unfortunately nothing worked out for me.

    I ended up cutting the metal line goin to the heads(?). I tried to work with it but it kinked on me. I haven't gotten a replacement check valve yet, so I improvised. I took my half of the original, (which is still good) and welded on a hose end from one of the bad check valves (from my Jeep) that was still in my scrap pile. Then smeared some RTV over the weld seam. Let that dry for a day and re tested the check valve. Still works as it should so I re-installed it in the car with another piece of hose and another couple of hose clamps. Problem solved, until I make my next rockauto order. I plan to pick up a new one in the future, but for now its fixed and no longer leaks.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
GMN Approved Links!


www.rockauto.com www.adtr.net