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    I need to change the air pump check valve...

    What style should I go with?

    Ok, so my car still has all the original smog equipment. It still seems to operate fine so I'm not concerned with ripping any of it out. That, and I really don't believe it consumes much power. Anyways, I got a check valve that's right next to the heater core line (on the pass side of the engine)that has come apart. It broke apart where the big 6 sided "nut" sits against the case of the valve. It was this way when I bought the car and I "fixed" it by applying RTV to it. It sealed up the leak and kept the 2 halves stuck together.

    Well today I heard the dreaded sound of an air leak. It was blowing pretty good. Well, my fix finally came apart and it was blowing air out the crack that had formed in the RTV. So, just casually this evening I tried researching the part to see if I could get another. They are available, but there are 2 different kinds.

    They have the kind that's in the car that "bolts/screws" onto the metal air line heading to the cat's and then on the other side attaches via a rubber hose w/ clamp. The other kind available is one that has hose connections on each side of the valve. What should I go with? In my experience with my Jeep, I couldn't get these valves off without collapsing the metal line because the side bolted on was seized. I think I tried in the past to undo the bolt on the air line in the car here and I couldn't get it to budge. I didn't want to damage this one so I just quit and RTV'd it. Should I try to work with it more, or should I just cut the line and get a new one with the hose ends on each side for simplicity's sake?


    Original style: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...88637&jsn=3095

    Hose end style: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...88637&jsn=3093
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-102k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    #2
    I’m a fan of putting the right thing on it, but I see your challenge of the relatively weak tubing and a rusted valve.

    This is the one that attaches to the smog plumbing on rear of the cylinder heads? I’d remove that assembly from the car and try some red hot heat on the valve and see if she’ll budge. If the tubing starts to give instead, you’ll have to go the route of the double hose end valve.

    Clean out the holes in the rear of the heads while it’s out.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

    GMN Box Panther History
    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
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      #3
      I have used a die grinder to cut a groove into the remains of the valve and prying it apart. Careful not to go too deep and ruin the threads. WagonMan
      89 Colony Park
      90 Colony Park
      70 HEMI Daytona Convertible

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        #4
        Update!

        Thanks guys for the tips, but unfortunately nothing worked out for me.

        I ended up cutting the metal line goin to the heads(?). I tried to work with it but it kinked on me. I haven't gotten a replacement check valve yet, so I improvised. I took my half of the original, (which is still good) and welded on a hose end from one of the bad check valves (from my Jeep) that was still in my scrap pile. Then smeared some RTV over the weld seam. Let that dry for a day and re tested the check valve. Still works as it should so I re-installed it in the car with another piece of hose and another couple of hose clamps. Problem solved, until I make my next rockauto order. I plan to pick up a new one in the future, but for now its fixed and no longer leaks.
        1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-102k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

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