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    Fusible Links to Fuses

    I know this particular thing has been done around here, but unfortunately it seems most of the supporting imagery has been brushed off the interwebz thanks to a particularly greedy photo hosting site, so I need just some clarification.

    Anyway, this is relation to getting rid of the spaghetti of fusible links coming off the starter solenoid and tidying that up into an Aero fuse box.

    So, my question pertains to adequately fusing each circuit. Poking around 87gtVIC's build thread, he mentioned the rule of thumb for the fusible link was to use one four gauges smaller than the size of the wire to be protected. Ergo, a 16 gauge link would protect a 12 gauge wire.

    I used this chart to get an idea for the max current each wire gauge could carry:


    Using the above example, that 12 gauge wire should be able to carry 45 amps max. The 16 gauge fuse link used to protect it should only be able to carry 25 amps max before blowing, correct? Using that logic, if I used a fuse in place of the 16 gauge fusible link, I would use a 25 amp fuse, correct? I'm just trying to get reasonable figures drawn up so I'm not blowing fuses at random while also not burning down the car.


    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

    #2
    It’s been how ever many years now (got to be at least 5 or 6 since I did the swap) and no fuses blown or wiring has melted. I just used similar docs off the internet to get it done and all is well.

    Good luck with your swap. Sure is a nice modification/ upgrade to do.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Originally posted by ootdega
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

    Originally posted by gadget73
    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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      #3
      Basically, just go by whatever Ford used on the later vehicles. The fuel pump power wire gets a 20 amp fuse. The EEC power relay gets 30 amps. The rear defroster grid gets a 40 amp fuse. Ideally if you have an evtm for your car, we can easily see what wires will power what circuit and what fuse you will need.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
        Basically, just go by whatever Ford used on the later vehicles. The fuel pump power wire gets a 20 amp fuse. The EEC power relay gets 30 amps. The rear defroster grid gets a 40 amp fuse. Ideally if you have an evtm for your car, we can easily see what wires will power what circuit and what fuse you will need.
        Fair enough. I do have the guide to my ‘97, so I’ll use that in conjunction with this.


        My Cars:
        -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
        -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
        -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
        -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

        Comment

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